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What Voltages on Test Points in Ice Maker - Maytag Dual Cool 25 cu. ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator MSD2556

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Water does not come out


If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.

If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.

This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced

On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.
God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!



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Mar 25, 2015 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I am not getting water to my dispenser or ice maker. Model rf266arfs/xac


The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.

(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.

Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.

Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY:

If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.

If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.

This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced

On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced.
Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.

May 31, 2014 | Samsung Refrigerators

1 Answer

Ice maker is not producing ice. Water dispenser is working fine. On Whirlpool Gold Model #GS6SHAXLS03


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If the ice maker is not refilling with water after its last harvest that points to the=> W10408179 Water Inlet Valve. If the ice maker just sits there with ice and does not empty into the ice bucket we will need to test the 4389102 Ice Level Control
Instructions on how to test can be found HERE If you have something else happening here please let me know, Sea Breeze
If the ice maker is not refilling with water the side of the water control valve that fills the ice maker is defective and you will still get water from the dispenser. The parts I listeed above are for your GS6SHAXLS03 refrigerator.

Oct 15, 2013 | Whirlpool GS6SHAXLS Side by Side...

1 Answer

ICE MAKER


There will be several items to check that can get your ice maker back to operational. First you will need to see if the ice maker is refilling after each batch. Us a light or feel to see if ice maker is empty from the last cycle. If no water is in the ice slots use a cup and pour tap water into the empty ice slots to about the top of the ice maker. Allow water to freeze and if the cube's dump into ice bin. If then water does not refill the ice maker I believe the dual water control valve=> 67005154 Dual Water Control Valve is at fault.
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Click here=>

Whirlpool's Ice Maker Harvest Cycle
most of the information you are looking for is on the page above. I will let you begin by going to that link and saving the Whirlpool Ice Maker Troubleshooting PDF. Once you read over that material and are able to use an ohm meter we will move to the test points behind the ice makers front cover. Ice Maker have about a five year average life cycle and many times it is more cost effective if you replace the=>
D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly or click here=>
D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly In the clip below you basically have all the solutions in this one You-Tube Movie=> Ice Maker Repair I believe this is one of the better Whirlpool Ice Maker related video's and covers most all of what you need answered. I will be here to answer any questions. Checking the ice maker mold heater by testing the L and H test points (should show about 72 ohms of resistance) Testing the Ice Maker Timer L and M test points should show around 4400 ohms of resistance Motor You also can answer from the ice maker by testing just what condition your water control valve coil windings are by placing the test probes in the N and V test points where you should get between 150 and 350 ohms of resistance. I will be here to answer any questions you may have, If this solution is helpful please rate my solution, Thanks Sea Breeze



Jan 06, 2012 | Jenn-Air JFC2087HRS Side by Side...

1 Answer

Ice maker


Kevin if your model number ASD2622HR is correct you can test your water control vave after removing the front cover.of the ice maker using a ohm test points you should get from the N and V test points should show around 150 to 350 ohms of resistance. Then ohm test test ports L and H test points are for testing the mold heater. The dual water control valve ca still be defective mechanically so tell me is there water or ice still remaining in the ice slots? Pour tap water into ice maker and allow to freeze and if ice maker cycles and drops the ice into ice bin then does not refill with water that will indicate a defective water control valve. You should get around 72 ohm's of resistance. A new dual water control valve=> 67005154 Dual Inlet Water Valve
Replacement Ice maker=> D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly12_17_2011_2_58_46_am.jpg
If you have any questions please ask. Click Here to get most all the information you need at top and left side of page=> Whirlpool Matag Customer Assistance
If helpful please rate but please ask if you have any questions, Thank You Sea Breeze

Dec 16, 2011 | Amana Side-By-Side Refrigerator 26 cu. ft....

1 Answer

Model 106.57036601 Ice maker quit working couple days ago had water off in whole house, had to repair a water pipe in the restroom.


There are a couple or three ways to test your ice maker and dual water control valve to identify the location of the problem. By looking at what the ice maker did on its last cycle or the lack of a cycle will help a lot. If ice maker has old cubes then the ice maker has not cycled and that tells me that the ice maker has been turned off or it has become defective. Another test is to pour tap water into the empty slots if there was not old cubes there. Allow the water to freeze and if the ice maker cycles and dumps the cubes into the ice container that would indicate a defective dual water valve=> 4389177 Water Valve Kit- Double Outlet The first three numbers of your model tells me it was made by Whirlpool and that tells me that removal of the front cover of ice maker you have test points. If me knowing what I know of ice makers I would be prepared to change both ice maker core=> 2198597 Ice maker - Replacement
Below is a short You-Tube ice maker help tutorial by the Appliance Assistant that can be very helpful. Should you have questions please ask, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Jun 10, 2011 | Kenmore 56733 Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Clicking noise in freezer I am assuming to try to make ice, no ice being made?


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Ice makers can stop ice production due to poor air flow though the evaporator coils or through the failure of the ice maker module. If your certain the clicking noise your hearing is from the ice maker itself here is are some steps that you can use to troubleshoot the ice maker:
http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34

This step from the above link is important:

TEST PROCEDURESIce Maker Plugged In To PowerShut-Off Arm Down-Freezer Cold
Test points L & N will verify 120 volts to Ice Maker module.(Make sure your test probes go into the test points 1/2".)
Test points T & H will verify if the bimetal thermostat is open or closed.
Short T & H with an insulated piece of wire ( 14 gauge) to run the motor. If the motor doesn't run, replace the module assembly. If you leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution, you can feel the heater in the mold heat up..if it's good.
Remove the jumper and the water valve will be energized in the last half of the revolution.

Once you insert the jumper between T & H touch the bottom of the ice maker and check for any signs of heat within the first minute. No heat = bad mold heater. It can 3 - 4 minutes for the sweep arm to harvest the ice.

Stick your finger back in the ice maker fill tube area in the plastic rectangular funnel area and check for ice build up. If the funnel is blocked with ice also pinch the ice maker fill tube for an ice block.
Should you notice ice in the funnel and the fill tube most likely the inlet water valve is bypassing water into the ice maker causing an over fill and ice build up condition. The remedy here is to replace the inlet water valve. They are NOT repairable. (Most of the time if the inlet water valve is bad your ice cubes will be fused into an ice block in the ice bin.) Also... if the ice maker fill tube is frozen full of ice... it can take up to 30 minutes using a hair drier to melt the ice as the insulation in the back of the freezer compartment keeps the ice maker fill tube from warming up enough to melt the ice in a timely fashion.

If you discover that the ice maker has over filled you can use a hand held hair drier and melt the ice in the ice maker.

If the ice maker seems to work fine then the freezer may be above 18 deg F. This is usually caused by ice build up on the evaporator coils as a result of either a defrost circuit problem or a slow running evaporator fan.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Feb 20, 2011 | Maytag MBF2258HE Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Why won't ice maker produce ice?


The first image below provides a diagnostic procedure for the optics of the ice maker system. I recommend checking the optics first. If the optics components are okay, then the next step would be to check the ice maker module. The test procedure for the ice maker module is provided in the second image below. This test requires placement of an insulated jumper wire in test points of the ice maker module. You should conduct this test only if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely complete the procedure. Make sure that the refrigerator is unplugged when accessing the ice maker and jumping the test points. The third image below provides a troubleshooting chart based on the results of the test described above. If you are able to test the ice maker, follow the troubleshooting steps based on the results of the test. You should only replace components if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely complete the repair. If you need more help with this repair

Jan 16, 2011 | Amana ATB2135HR Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Ice maker has lost power. I tested for power through at the test points on the ice maker. nothing. is there a reset somewhere?


There is an in-line fuse mounted in the line supplying the power to the ice-maker. It is in the wire clipped to the side /bottom

Oct 29, 2010 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

My subZero Model 245 Icemaker stopped making ice


Ice maker, I don't know where you can find the manual but I'll give you a few ideas of what to look for. First make sure that the inlet tube is not frozen over. Next, look at the center gear on the module and see if the clips in the center are not broken. If so you will have to replace the module. The ejector blades should be at the 2:00 position when home. If you get a jumper wire and jump T to H, this will by pass the bi-metal and run a cycle. The ice maker should fill at around the 12:00 position. Test points L & N will verify if you have 120v to the ice-maker. Test points L & H will test the resistance of the heater, 72 ohms. plus or minus 10%. Hope this gets you going, Catriver...post back.

Aug 19, 2006 | Sub-Zero 245

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