Question about Oster Health & Beauty
SOURCE: how to sharpen oster clipper
In order to sharpen these blades you must first dis-assemble them (paying particular attention to the way everything fits together), Next you need to get a piece of glass or something as flat as possible and tape a sheet of 180 grit emery paper with the rough side up. Then you put the upper blade on the emery paper wih the flat side down and stroke it back and forth in a straight line at least 100 strokes each way. Turn the blade over and examine the surface with a magnifying lens to see if you have honed the blade flat all the way across. Next turn the blade 90 degrees and again stroke the blade back and forth in a straight line. Turn the blade over and examine again to see if you have removed all the first series of strokes and the new set is flat from edge to edge. If so then put that blade aside and do the same thing to the lower blade until it is flat across and up and down. After reaching this stage you need to remove the 180 grit paper and go up to 230 grit paper and repeat the whole process. After completing the second stage you progress to 400 grit paper and repeat once again..
Make sure you keep the blades straight so the hone marks are up and down and from side to side and you should have an almost razor sharp cutting tool. Also DO NOT USE SAND PAPER only emery paper or cloth. I know this sounds like a lot of work but after you've done it a couple of times you can whip out a blade in about 20 minutes.
Posted on Oct 01, 2008
I gave it a shot and it worked!!!....
No need to bother with the universal guards. They looked bulky for the task, and after careful (visible scrutiny) decided to gamble on the "fast feed clipper" guides. Check them out here:
There are surely other people who sell them - you might shop around, but I bought from these guys. Warning, the shipping price is kinda steep. But like I said in my last post, I've tried other clippers and these are just the best. It was worth it to me.
Anyway, I am now confirming that these guards fit this old clipper brand of ours. Perfectly!
Posted on Feb 03, 2009
There is a small gun-metal colored bar at the very rear, just below the back of the blade. It pushes inward, in the direction of the blade. Push it firmly in and pull up on the teeth of the blade. It should pop upward. You can then remove the blade from the tongue that it sits upon. When you want to put it back, slide the blade back on the tongue, then, WITH THE MOTOR TURNED ON, push the blade down to its seated position. It will click into place.
Terms regarding these devices are all too often assumed as understood. For most purposes, these are what you have to know for the A5 Oster. The cover plate is the part with two screws that has the name and other info on it. If you remove the two screws and the plate, you will see a nylon part that moves the blade back and forth--that is the lever. The other end of the lever, with a hole in it, is connected to a metal part called the link. Both parts are easily removed by simply pulling them upward from the device. The bakelite gear is the part that the link sits on (the larger hole in the link). It too can be simply pulled up off the metal shaft that it rides upon (careful not to lose the washer under it). That gear is turned by the armature gear of the motor (which is where things get much too involved to cover here, but from that point on the device very rarely has problems). Incidentally, the lever, the link, and the gear can all quite simply be replaced. They are available quite inexpensively at Amazon under Oster A5 Clipper parts (note that the one speed and the two speed take different bakelite gears, but the lever and the link are the same). If you were to replace parts such as these or simply lubricate them, remember that a good white lithium grease is recommended in light application for the gear and the shafts (lever and gear shafts and armature gear). Also, the gear shaft has a hole down its middle (and two small holes that lead to the outside of the shaft. The shaft should be filled with grease so that grease can get through those small holes to lubicate the inside of the bakelite bearing. The two pads (one on each side of the lever) should be oiled. The simple way to tell if you need to replace parts is to grip the blade end of the lever while all parts are in place and try to move it back and forth, as though it were running the blade. If there is any more than the slightest movement, replace the lever (replace that anyway if the part that contacts the blade is rounded off) link and gear.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
SOURCE: CHANGING BLADES
There is a small gun-metal colored bar (dark gray or black) at the very rear, just below the back of the blade. It pushes inward, in the direction of the blade. Push it firmly in and pull up on the teeth of the blade. It should pop upward. You can then remove the blade from the tongue that it sits upon. When you want to put it back, slide the blade back on the tongue, then, WITH THE MOTOR TURNED ON, push the blade down to its seated position. It will click into place.
Hope this helps you.
Posted on Apr 09, 2010
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