Question about Kitchen Ranges

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I purchased a used Jenn Air gas range. I discovered most of the model # was unreadable. I need an instruction booklet and seals for the the top burners. Just tried to contact Jenn Air to see if they could help figure out what my model # would be but they are not open on the weekend

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  • Kitchen Ranges Master
  • 34,814 Answers

If Jenn Air is unable to help, try an appliance parts supplier

Posted on Apr 20, 2013

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jumptrout51
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SOURCE: Problem with conversion of used Whirlpool Range from NAT to LP

Take a 1/2 inch open end wrench and adjust the orifice on top of the oven gas valve.
Tighten it down until the flame is normal. Blue with white tips.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kitchenaid Gas convection range lower burner will

whirlpool oven wont turn on top burner work.
model #SF315PPQ2

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

SOURCE: My gas bake burner won't ignite.The igniter is

If the bake ignitor comes on - check the amperage on the bake ignitor wires when it's on. Amperage should be 3 - 3.6A. If less than 3A - replace ignitor.
Ignitor part numbers (any will do, but the first one is a direct replacement): 12400035, WB13K21, WB2X9998, SGR412, NR020, 5303935066, 814269, 9753108.
All those are interchangeable, if you can splice the wires.

Good luck!

Posted on Jul 15, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: jenn-air gas range probe light f1-10 code

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Oct 01, 2010

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Faulty range/oven parts aren't the only worry a gas range owner has; the threat of carbon monoxide is very real and should be paid close attention to when doing repairs on the range.

If your range or oven gives off soot, you definitely have a carbon monoxide problem. Soot is the result of inefficient or incomplete combustion. There are always elevated levels of carbon monoxide with soot production. Properly adjusted range/oven parts do not give off soot. You may have poorly adjusted gas pressure, the air shutter may need to be opened, or you may be supplying fuel the oven isn't designed to handle. Don't use natural gas in liquid propane stove or vice-versa.


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I purchased a house w/ a Jenn-air elect. drop-in range. The Model # is 87946 or 87847. I believe the range was originally purchased in 1975. I am in need of an instruction manual .


Neither of these are a typical Jenn-Air model number. http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search.jsp?siteCd=JA_EN_US suggests that the model number is on the back wall under the burner on the right side of a drop-in cooktop. For a range the model number is often on the frame inside the oven door, below the vent or on the back of the top of the range.

87946 or 87847 are the part numbers for the cartridges (the elements or the surrounding housing).

Look at the model number locations at the "Help me find my model number" link and try to locate a model number on your range. Then enter that model into the search box. The manual is probably available with the correct part number. Most Jenn-air electric cooktops start with JEC in their model number.

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