Question about General Electric Monogram® ZGU385NSMSS (Gas) Stainless Steel Cooktop

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All lights and ignitors on my GE ZGU385N (Gas cooktop) stopped working all of a sudden. I installed a new transformer and I got lights for a second then nothing. What would blow new transformer?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 530 Answers

SOURCE: Ignitors are igniting on their own

they are not lighting they are sparking on there own right? No actual flame? if they are sparking on there own you need a new spark module.

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

  • 221 Answers

SOURCE: Have a four burner gas GE Profile cooktop. How do

The igniter module is working fine. One of the switches (which are on each valve shaft) is stuck or shorted out. Pull a wire off each one at a time to determine which one is bad. Careful! 120 volts to each wire. Also, this can happen after you spill water into the valve area, if that sounds right, let it dry out.

Posted on Jan 30, 2010

  • 234 Answers

SOURCE: ignitor does not click

there is no "ignitor" as you would find in an oven or dryer. There is a sparkmodule that many times goes bad after 5 to 8 years. It is a plastic box about 4 to 6 " x 2" wide and wil have 3 to 5 wires or 3 to 5 terminal connector points on it. remember to unplug the range top fromwall electric. these units are not difficult to replace; they are not repairable, you have to buy a new one.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: GE Monogram gas cooktop electric ignitor will not


Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote to give details about why your cooktop will not spark to light the burners..

Cooktop Range Stove spark ignition does not work

heatman101

Posted on Aug 30, 2010

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: All lights and ignitors on my GE ZGU385N (Gas

> White and Red are zero volts (this is without any loading on them i.e. not connected to anything). Does this narrow the problem down to the transformer or the voltages only apply if there is loading on them? What else could be causing this issue?
If you see any way to disconnect the secondary side of the transformer, do it and then measure resistance of the windings. This apparently uses a single winding that runs from ground to the 240V output with a tap at the 12V point or, if you have ~ 220V going in, the 240 tap may be the hot input with an 'autotransformer' tap for the 12V that is used for service voltage for the electronics.
Trace what you believe be the input side and disconnect one leg and measure there too.
In all cases, with one leg of both sides disconnected, you should measure a fairly low resistance. On the input side, it should be under ~100 Ohms, the output side may be in the same range or (if you only have 120V going in from the wall) it could be ~ 2X the value. The 12V tap should measure quite low, probably under 20 Ohms from the white (ground lead) and a little less than the value of the entire secondary from the high end of the secondary.
With one leg of each side of the transformer: If you find anything like 'open' or extremely high resistance (over 100,000 Ohms > infinite) anywhere that winding is sick.

Posted on Sep 11, 2011

Testimonial: "It was the transformer. I got a new one today and everything is working fine now. Thanks."

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Look for a short in the wiring (usually white wires running to the ignitors) or a loose ground wire. (usually green)

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All lights and ignitors on my GE ZGU385N (Gas cooktop) stopped working all of a sudden. I checked the input voltage to the transformer and all looks fine so I know the issue is not with the outlet or power...


Disconnect power and set you meter to ohms. Check the both the line side and the low side of the the ****** for continuity. If you cannot get a reading from either side then that puppy is bad. More than likely that is gonna be it since everything quit. If it was the igniter box you might have weak spark etc. I thnk that transformer is your prob.

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Sounds like someone washed down theb cooktop. If the moisture traveled throughout the contacts, the clicking sound will continue while off, until things dry out. Unplug cord from wall, give it some hours, maybe even a day or so, for moisture to evaporate. This worked for me in past. Give it a try. Good luck

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Just solved this on the Kenmore model 911.33389 (same unit). Ignitors started with no one touching the cooktop. It has had a history of doing this and, this time, sparks were visible under the knob. Disassembled cooktop (don't forget to unplug and shut off the gas!). Performed "smell test" for burned electronics. Found smell in #3 ignitor switch. Disassembled and found worn, burned, and fried. Parts list was inside unit but had a typo for the "ignitor switch". Showed WB18T10240. Ordered that only to discover it was the transformer to ignitor wire harness set (no photo on website!). Wrong part... ugh! Dug deeper for the correct part #. It was WB18T10239 but it has been replaced with WB18T10344. Noted on some website that someone installed one and then the ignitor was NOT synchronized. Turns out, you can install WB18T10344 about three different ways. Mine was 22 degrees off vertical (different than original) and now my unit works perfectly! Also, install the new switch harness (if that's what you do) starting from the left front valve then clockwise. The original unit installed from the right front valve, then clockwise. Hope this helps.

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Hi, water is a great conductor of electricity. It is likely nothing to be concerned about in this case though, if you light the burners and allow the water to burn off/evaporate from the ignitors it should be fine. It happens all the time with gas ranges and cooktops. Once the ignitors are dry they will stop conducting/sparking unwanted. Hope that helps calm your concern. Thanks for coming to "fixya" for your solution. Please take a second after reading this to rate the info provided to you. Good luck. Macmarkus :)

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Have a four burner gas GE Profile cooktop. How do


The igniter module is working fine. One of the switches (which are on each valve shaft) is stuck or shorted out. Pull a wire off each one at a time to determine which one is bad. Careful! 120 volts to each wire. Also, this can happen after you spill water into the valve area, if that sounds right, let it dry out.

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1 Answer

One igniter won't work right on my gas cooktop.


If you're not getting the ignitor sparking (you should hear it) when you turn the burner knob on for that burner, it could be that either the ignitor is dirty or caked with some gunk and needs to be cleaned.

The other issue could be that the ignitor is faulty and needs to be replaced. If you want to confirm a faulty ignitor before ordering a new one, you can swap it out with one of the other ignitors on the cook top. Be sure to unplug the cook top from the outlet thou, to prevent getting a shock, as those little sparkers can give you a pretty good jolt!

Just remove the grates and burners to get at the ignitor for cleaning it. To get at the ignitor, youll need to go under the cabinet or counter that the cooktop is installed on in order to remove the ignitor and swap it with one of the other ones. You'll see that these are held in place with a retaining clip you can remove with a flat bladed screwdriver, etc.

If you find that the one that isn't working is faulty, you can order one from your local appliance service store, or get one online. www.searspartsdirect.com lists parts for almost every appliance there is, just enter in the full model number to get a parts list, etc.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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they are not lighting they are sparking on there own right? No actual flame? if they are sparking on there own you need a new spark module.

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On any range I've seen with electronic ignitors, the valves have a position that closes a contact to turn on the ignitor and manually moving the dial to the 'Hi' setting opens the contact again and the ignitor ceases to spark.
You don't mean the ignitors run even when the burners are off, do you?
I'm surprised to read that this has been happening for 'years,' the transformer for the ignitors must be really tough to withstand that and it doesn't sound like an electrode or transformer problem but rather a contact not opening as it should or you not advancing the control past the ignite point.     

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