- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I don't know what you're trying to control - but wiring single pole (or double pole for that matter) switches - or in this case - thermostats in parallel will cause the load (dampers?) or operate and will remain operating until NEITHER thermostat is calling for cooling.
L1 is Hot
N is Neutral
T1 is TStat 1
T2 is TStat 2
D is Damper
1) Either TStat closing on rising temp will close and power D with 120V.
2) D remains powered until BOTH T1 and T2 are cold enough (satisfied) and opens.
3) When BOTH T1 and T2 are cold, power is interrupted and D de-energizes until one of the TStats calls for cooling again.
NOTE: It is possible for one TStat location to be driven TOO cold - as long as one of the TStats is calling for cooling, D will remain powered.
If the air flow cannot be controlled from vent/defrost/floor you may have a blend door issue. This is an electric motor that operates a door in the heating system to control airflow. There are usually 3 motors controlling airflow direction,heat and recirculation. The Ac not blowing cold may also be another problem. If the AC is operational, the compressor will be engaged and the Ac low pressure line under the hood will bw cold. If this is all ok then a blend door issue should be suspected
I think in those vehicles the temperature controls use engine vacuum to work. If so the small rubber hose which comes off the inlet manifold and goes to heater controls more than likely has a split in it. So when your engine is idling there is not enough vacuum to operate the valve that controls the water flow through your heater/ac. Pretty cheap fix unless the split is up under the dash Let me know how you get on
$900? $850? You could get a new engine for that price.
If the car has this condition only when it is very cold then I suspect that during that time it is operating in a condition controlled by an engine temperature requirement. When it is cold enough it will continue to run the fuel management in what is called "open loop" mode until it is warm enough. It needs to be warm enough to allow the oxygen sensors to properly read the oxygen level of the exhaust gasses and send that information to the computer, which will then calculate and command the proper air to fuel ratio. The other important reason is that the exhaust gasses must also be hot enough to activate the catalytic converter contents to break down the combustion byproducts, which is about 650F. When it reaches the minimal operating temperature requirement, the fuel management program then switches to closed loop fuel control...at that point emissions are the least and fuel economy is improved. A new throttle body will not solve that problem. A higher temperature thermostat or a higher coolant to water ratio will help. By the way...a throttle body for your car is no where near $900...not even half of that with even the MAF sensor included and that's $150 by itself. www.zzperformance.com
The kit should just be a heater that piggy backs off the 2 wires going to your cold controle or thermostat. orange and black go back on the cold control with the heater piggy backed. The kit heats the cold control to make it think its warmer in the room or box than it is so it will run long enough to keep frezer frozen.
Often times the defrost termination switch (which opens when it gets warm enough) will hold the fan off until it closes again when the freezer runs. It is possible that the switch is not closing, but be sure the freezer is getting cold enough for it to close.
You know the freezer is likely cold enough when you see frost covering the entire evaporator coil after a few hours of operation. A partial frost pattern could indicate low refrigerant, or a restriction of refrigerant.
version of adaptive defrost : Press
refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle.
Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight
into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators.
After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs
before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost
terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the
evaporator fan motor will operate.
Faulty Cold control (Temperature Control) The cold control is a temperature actuated switch and should open when the set temperature has been achieved. If the control does not open and turn the compressor off, it will continue to run and all items in the fresh food section will begin to freeze.
If the control is not closing, the compressor and all fans will cease to operate. Check the control for continuity.
This is usually not a do it your selfer.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
When a non-electronically controlled domestic frost free refrigerator is too cold, it's one of three things. Either the controls are set wrong, the cold control is insensitive, or in rare cases and only on certain designs, if the compressor is weak. In this case the evaporator temperature is not cold enough to operate the control properly. Also, on manual defrost or semi automatic defrost designs, sometimes it can just be that the clip that holds the controls sensing tube is loose or has come off. good luck