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I have an H62 Hobart commercial dishwasher. I had it on fill to start it up. There was a loud pop while it was filling and now it has stopped. The power light is still on but the dishwasher will no longer fill. Where should I start looking for the problem. Would it be a fuse that popped?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 236 Answers

SOURCE: dishwasher filling up then stopping

is it going into the wash or just filling and thats it? if it fills and does nothing straight after it is probably the wash motor is jammed or seized. if the d/w starts to wash then stops it may be the heater is faulty.

Posted on Feb 16, 2008

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  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: Dish washer over filling?

The first thing you should do is clean the level probes in the unit. There are two probes sticking through the back of the unit and the water completes a circuit between these two telling the machine when it is full. If they are clean, you may have a faulty sensor or wiring.

Posted on Oct 18, 2008

subarufamily
  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: dishwasher fills cycle runs for a few seconds and then it stops and motor growls

Check for a deformed shaft on the water level float. Remove the kick plate and look for where the shaft of the float touches a micro switch. Often the shaft is bent sideways and only engaging the micro switch indirectly. Straighten by hand for a temporary fix or reinforce the shaft with aluminum tape and sewing needle. Keep the retrofit light weight to avoid problems with water overflow.

Its also possible you may have debris clogging the check valve that keeps water in the tub during certain cycles. To find the checl valve you'll need to remove the lower rack and completely disassemble the central assembly from the top down. If you are mechanicaly inclined its not hard. If you are worried about proper re-assembly, then video tape the disassembly as a memory aid and stack the parts and screws in careful succession.

Once you reach the steel garburator blade you only have one more plastic plate to remove. Examine both ports on the plate to ensure that there is no jam or debris. Throughout the disassembly, look for any broken glass or debris that could be jamming or clogging.

If neither of the above problems is found then the other possibility is a deflective or melted down circuit board. Check your owner's manual for longer warrantees on the control panel. A long time ago they use to have 3 - 5 year warranty. More recently the warrantees have been only for one year. Check your owner’s manual because if you ask the call centre they will always say one year even if the warrantee is longer. If the part is covered then disassemble the door to get at the control panel. Look for signs of melting/overheating. If the unit is out of warrantee then replace the dishwasher. The control panels cost as much as the dishwasher. Replace your Maytag with a quality brand like Miele. Avoid, Maytag, Jennair, Kitchen Aid, Whirlpool, Kenmore, White Westinghouse. They are all made by the same umbrella company with the same crappy parts, poor reliability, poor cleaning results and short term warrantees.

Use to be you could get 10 – 20 years of service from a North American brand. These days 3 – six months of clean dishes as much as many customers can expect before dishes become progressively more and more disgusting. Poor engineering is responsible because the designs are prone to jams, clogs, water level malfunctions and circuit board failures.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Dishwasher will not fill

EE,
The most likely culprit in a "no fill" scenario (especially after you've replaced the valve) is the Overflow preventer. It's designed to kill power to the valve if the water level gets too high. It does this by floating up as the water level rises.
Open the dishwasher door and remove the lower rack. You'll see it in the tub on the left side (the round thing that looks like a little hat). If it's stuck in the up (overflow) position, you won't get water. Raise and lower this device a few times... you should hear the "click click click" of the kill switch. Now just make sure it's in full down (ready for water) position and fire up the dishwasher. You should get water now.

If this helped, please rate this solution as "FixYa". BUT if this didn't fix the problem, don't rate it just yet. Write back and we'll go a little deeper into a diagnosis, OK?

SG
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Posted on May 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Jackson 200B Series Commercial Dishwasher Fills With Water and Drains

Could be one of two things. 1 - The cheap fix might be that the probes in the wash tank are dirty. There might be a "coating" on the probes that prevent the sensors from knowing that the water has reached the proper levels. 2- Replace part "Liquid Level Control" - $$

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

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