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You should be able to pry it off, just follow this simple steps: Locate a very small tab (or recessed area) on the edge of the back cover. Pull out the stem, which releases the back on some watches.Get a small flathead screwdriver it needs to be a thin inflexible tip. Very carefully slide the blade under the tiny metal protrusion on the back cover (or across the length of the recessed area, depending on which type of cover your watch has). When you replace the cover, make sure you line up the stem slot on the cover with the stem of the watch. These steps are listed on wikihow: http://www.wikihow.com/Pry-off-a-Watch-Backing-Without-Proper-Tools . You also could skip step 2 if it's a cheap quartz watch.
These babies are notorious for going down the tubes with a battery change. I bet if you get it back it won't work with a new battery. Twice I have replaced batteries and the watch didn't work when I finished. One of them was my own watch, I think $450 is about half the price of a new watch and that is sad. Cool watch just not very long life
If you changed battery yourself, you've lost the tiny spring without noticing it. Carefully check around the place where you changed the battery. The spring itself is very, very tiny, so, be as concentrated as much as you can. That spring (coilspring named by watchmakers) transmits the signal from watch movement to the watch back cover where the sound membrane is located. In case if you find it, open the watch and insert that spring with the bent out end first in to the desired hole in watch movement (should be named COIL SPRING). After that re-assemble watch and the sound should work.
I am pretty certain that this watch uses two #386 silver oxide button cells. Alkaline cells would work, too, but they'd burn out more quickly--not that batteries last all that long in this watch, anyway. I'm basing this on the slightly newer (~1976-78) plastic-bodied TI LED watch that I have in front of me that I believe contains the same time keeping module as the original model 101.
It is also possible that the earlier watch would have taken #357 batteries, which are the same diameter as #386 cells but slightly taller. Both battery types were popular in LED watches of the time. However, I would suggest starting with #386 cells, as I destroyed the case back of a plastic TI LED watch many years ago by trying to use #357 batteries instead of the slightly smaller 386s. Both batteries put out the same voltage, so the watch will light up with either. However, the case back won't close if the battery is too tall--and if you force it, you can bend, distort, or shatter (in my case) the all-but-unobtainable case back.
Have fun with this watch! Mine still lights up and keeps good time.
The vast majority of Fossil analog wristwatches take either a #377 or #379 watch battery. The #379, being slightly smaller, is somewhat more commonly found in women's watches than in men's watches, but I have seen both types used in men's and women's watches alike. However, the Fossil CH2473 includes chronograph functions, which means that you can have multiple motors inside the watch running simultaneously. As a result, it's possible that this watch will require a different / bigger bigger. However, if it's not one of these batteries, or even if it takes a 3-volt lithium battery instead of a 1.5 volt watch battery, it will still be something pretty mundane. In general, common batteries like the type I expect you'll find inside your watch are commonly found at many drug stores, jewelry store counters at places like Walmart and Target, and even at some dollar stores. Be aware that cheap dollar store batteries are usually alkaline, not silver oxide, versions of the same size battery. Alkaline batteries may work perfectly well in many watches, but they have a somewhat different energy performance curve over time, and, in general, they won't last quite as long as a comparable silver oxide battery. In addition, for reasons I've never been able to figure out, some of the Fossil watches that I've serviced would not function with an alkaline battery--but would work fine when I put in a silver oxide battery of the same size and voltage. I have not been able to see a pattern to predict when this will and will not occur. Lithium batteries, whether "brand name" or generic, should have the same performance curve. If you do open up your watch to change the battery and don't recognize the battery type/code on your battery, don't give up. Watch batteries have different numbering schemes, depending on the manufacturer. Here's a link to a cross-reference chart that will help you "translate" one code into another. I would suggest starting by looking at the #377 line to see if one of those cross-reference codes matches what you have. However, you may need to look around the chart to get an exact match: http://www.watchbatteries.com/custom.aspx,,id,,75
As a final thought, the backs of some Fossil watches are very snugly fitted to their cases. You can generally get them off without too much of a problem, but there's a good chance you may need a jeweler's press to get them to snap back on properly. I've noticed this most with round watch backs; I generally haven't needed a press to close oblong or tonneau-shaped Fossil watches (or some round watches, too). A jeweler's press spreads the pressure evenly around the edges of the watch back and watch case, preventing damaging pressure on the watch crystal, watch movement, and watch back. Clamping the watch in a regular vise to try to press on the back runs a high risk of damaging your watch, and I do not recommend trying that, no matter how frustrated you get. It's much safer (and cheaper, overall) to tip someone with a vise a couple of dollars to close up your watch for you.
To restart the watch, you have to short the battery with a pin that sits under a sticker on the back of the watch. The sticker is supposed to explain that. You can usually do it with a pair of sharp scissors or tweezers. Without "jumpstarting" the watch, just installing a new battery won't start the watch. (I don't know why.)