Question about Mitsubishi WD-62526 Projection TV
The lamp light is still lit on the front of the tv. The TV comes on but the picture is darker than it was originally. This is after replacing the lamp with a replacement bulb. Not the original Matsushita lamp, but brand new none the less.
Thanks guys any help is appreciated!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Look at it really carefully where the bulb plugs into the lame the connector is not sitting firmly on it reconnect it and make sure it's firmly connected to the plug.
Posted on Dec 10, 2007
SOURCE: Mitsubishi WD-62526
Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on
the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device
and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.
For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
I RECENTLY HAD A LAMP ISSUE THAT MAY ASSIST. I HAVE A MITSUBISHI WD-52525 52" DLP. I HAVE OWNED THE UNIT JUST OVE THREE YEARS. THE UNIT INDICATED THAT THE LAMP NEEDED TO BE REPLACED WHEN THE UNIT WAS TURNED ON. I ORDERED A LAMP AND BEFORE IT CAME IN THE UNIT QUIT WORKING. I REPLACED THE LAMP AND WHEN I POWERED UP THE UNIT I GOT A STEADY YELLOW INDICATION AND THEN A SOLID RED. MITSUBISHI TECH ADVICE STATED THAT I MAY HAVE BEEN SHIPPED A BAD REPLACEMENT LAMP. I SENT THE LAMP BACK AND ANOTHER WAS SENT TO ME. THAT LAMP ALSO GAVE THE SAME RESULTS. I CALLED CHUCKS ELECTRONIC REPAIR AND A VERY KNOWLEDGABLE TECHNICIAN RESPONDED TO MY HOME. IT WAS DISCOVERED THAT THE POWER SUPPLY BOARD WAS BAD AND THAT THE LAMP NEVER NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I SPOKE WITH REPRESENTATIVES AT MITSUBISHI SEVERAL TIMES AND THIS WAS NEVER EXPLAINED TO BE A POSSIBITLY. THE TECHS AT MITUSBISHI BASICALLY JUST READ FROM THE OWNER MANUEL AND HAD NO IDEA WHAT THEY WERE DOING.
Posted on May 15, 2008
The hardest part is getting the chassis block out. But if youre mechanically inclined and follow the illustrations and label all the wires you unplug, its not that difficult a job. The soldering isnt very difficult as theyre just capacitors. The chassis is contained inside a metal container and has to be removed as a unit then opened up to get to the PWB PC board.
Posted on Jul 06, 2008
I replaced my own the part cost $109,it was somewhat time consuming since taking the back panel off was a learn as I went.However I still didn't get the red LED to go off.....TV still would not power up in it's normal fashion.Previously I had 2 lamps burn out,and you definetly could tell they burned out.Since then I have changed the power supply feeding($130) the ballast circuit and I still haven't got the TV to come on without defaulting to the red LED,and taking the chasis apart to do this was a real pain.I have posted a question about my problem recently.Still waiting for a solution.Mitsubishi won't sell a customer any parts........they want you to go to atechnician that works on their product.GOOD LUCK!
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
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