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No power to the cutting torch when the trigger is pressed

I have power to the unit and enough air pressure..the ground is connected to the work still no rusults

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Its possible the selector switch between mma, plasma and Tig is bad, also, try to keep the plasma air pressure between 45 and 55 PSI, too much air will destabilize the plasma and prevent you from initiating the arc.

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

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Check to make sure all torch parts are in good shape and is put in correctly

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

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1 Answer

SPLIT AIR CONDITIONER UNIT


Outside unit has a low pressure switch to prevent it running when there is not enough freon to carry the oil needed to lubricate it.
A lightening strike or other power surge may zap the capacitor. The top where the wires connect should be flat ,when zapped it will be puffed up. To replace the capacitor turn the power off. Black on common, blue or purple on fan

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How to wire a compressor to switch


Your pressure switch should have four wire attachment screws on the switch tower and two ground points on the metal frame/base. Most switches label the four screws in pairs as LINE and MOTOR. If they're not labeled, use an ohm meter to make sure you don't connect the cord to a direct short. Usually the bottom two are for the LINE or power cord connection. The upper two are for the cord going to the MOTOR. There should be two screws on the metal base for the ground lines or at least two holes for the screws, some switches come without the screws. Make sure you ground the unit as compressing air creats a lot of static electricity.

Aug 20, 2012 | Coleman Powermate 27 Gallon Air Compressor

1 Answer

Wire Schermatic


There should not be any power on the pressure switch, these work have shorting the float side to ground when there is enough pressure. There are usually at least 2 fuses in the AC chain and at least one relay (or electronic switch). If you are not seeing 12V on the wire running to the clutch when the engine is running and the AC on then there is no way for the AC to work. So GM systems have 2 pressure switches. One for too low pressure and one for too high pressure. Since you say it was just serviced when it stopped then I suspect that there is too much freon in the system. The person filling the system did not account for the outside air temp in the pressure calculations.

Aug 03, 2012 | GMC 1992 1500 PICKUP A/C Compressor...

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Air conditioning


It doesn't sound like you have low Freon, but you could. The clutch not engaging indicates low Freon. The fact that it works are all would indicate that it is not low on Freon. The only thing that would be wrong is the pressure switch is not working when it gets hot. The pressure switch works by shorting the float side connection to ground then there is enough pressure in the system.

Aug 03, 2012 | 2003 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

AIR COMPRESS PRESSURE SWITCH


Pressure switches have four connections; the upper two are labeled LINE and are for the line or power cord, the lower two are labeled MOTOR and are for the cord going to the motor. The connections are either tabs for slip connectors or pressure washers under the screws to hold the wire ends. Connect the motor cord leads to the lower screws and the line leads to the upper connections with the white and black lines on the same sides as the motor lines. Connect both ground lines to the switch box ground screw. Some switch boxes have two ground screws, some have one, it doesn't matter which way you connect them but it has to be grounded. Compressing air creates a lot of static electricity and it has to have somewhere to go or you could get a healthy shock when you touch the compressor after it has been running.

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1 Answer

My paloma tankless gas has a error code c2 11 c4 12 why


Open following link for useful troubleshooting information:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html

Error code 11 is 'No ignition'
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Paloma-Tankless-Error-Codes.pdf

Ensure you have gas to the appliance.
Ensure gas type and pressure are correct.
Bleed all air from gas lines.
Ensure gas line, meter, and regulator are sized properly.
Ensure appliance is properly grounded.
Check gas solenoid valves for open or short circuits.
Ensure igniter is operational.
Check igniter wiring harness for damage.

Error code 12 is 'Flame Failure'
Ensure you have gas to the appliance.
Ensure gas type and pressure are correct.
Bleed all air from gas lines.
Ensure flame rod wire is connected.
Check flame rod for carbon build-up.
Ensure gas line, meter, and regulator are sized properly.
Ensure appliance is properly grounded.
Check gas solenoid valves for open or short circuits.
Check power supply for loose connections.
Check power supply for proper voltage and voltage drops.
Disconnect remote control.
Disconnect and re-connect all wiring harnesses on unit and PC board.
Ensure proper venting material was installed.
Ensure condensation collar was installed properly.
Ensure maximum vertical vent length does not exceed allowable limits.
Ensure maximimum horizontal vent length does not exceed allowable limits.

Range of causes are part failure, gas pressure loss, air in gas line, improper installation of gas line or vent, 120V power to unit is disrupted or unit not grounded, circuit problems, venting problems, remote control, wiring to PC board, board failure, carbon build-up on flame rod, short circuits on gas valve solenoids.
The fact that you have error code tends to eliminate your plumbing as culprit, the error code does not mention air supply, otherwise it looks like every possible cause is on the table.

Add a comment with your experience so other with same-similar problem can benefit.

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1 Answer

Fuel pump is not working and I would like to know if it is the relay or the pump. Is there a test wire to test the fuel pump by the brake master cylinder. I have three relays in the glove box which one is...


The way this system works is a little unusel. The relay in the glove box is the one on the far left hand side. The relay is feed off fuse # 9 ECM 20 amp 1 ORANGE circuit 440 however it splits before the relay and goses to the oil pressure sending unit witch acts as a back up for the fuel pump power supply still as ORN 440. The connector red 2 490 is the one near the master cylinder and is called the fuel pump prime connector and with the ignition off will test the connection between that point and the motor in the fuel pump however with the key in start or run pisition the switch in the relay will be open because the ground circuit for the relay 1 blk/wht circuit 151 will trip the switch in the relay and the pump motor will be feed by ORN 440 and this will power the pump motor in normal start mode. Now for instance if the pump relay is bad the vehicle will still start through the split circuit ORN 440 that is going through the oil pressure sending unit it will just take longer because the engine needs to build up enough oil pressure to trip the switch witch is a pressure switch inside the oil pressure unit .So the best test for you at this piont is to put 12 volts on the fuel prime connector off the battery and see if the pump runs with key off . If it dose the pump is ok. If not then remove the relay there are 5 terminals on the bottom of it test for a connection between redwire 87A and 30-C1 gray wire 2 if no connection then relay is NG.If this test is good then test gray 30-1C aganst gray 2 120 located at the connector on the oil pressure sending unit terminal D on the connector if you have connection then the fuel pump is NG or has a ground problem between gray 2 ckt 120 and the fuel pump motor ground G410 T 22 at the frame Hopefuly its not the pump but it varywell may be its likely sorry to be so complex i can send you schamitcal information if you want but its a rather complex problem

Jan 29, 2011 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Only cuts for 3 seconds, device still on


Possibly an internal short in the torch tip... the expendable components failing in the tip will cause the sensors in the machine to register a "no cut" or "free air arc" state and kill the power to the tip to prevent damage to the unit. Replace the tip components and double check the grounds connections.

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1 Answer

My 40g shuts off after running perfect for a feww minutes


It is very likely you are having a problem with the low oil pressure switch or the high temperature switch. Both of these are connected to the No.85 wire which in turn goes back to the control board. If the temperature exceeds the predetermined level (apprx 305 degrees F) the high temperature switch will then ground wire 85 causing the unit to shut down. Same thing with the oil pressure switch, if the oil pressure switch goes below 10 psi the low oil pressure switch will ground wire 85 causing the unit to shut down. To determine which is causing the problem disconnect first the low oil pressure switch (Located by the oil filter) and start unit if it contunues to run after 10 seconds and does not shut down then the oil pressure is the problem. Then you must use a mechanical pressure gauge connected where the low oil pressure switch is to determine if you actually have less than 10 psi of oil or if the low oil pressure switch is just bad. Try the same thing with the high temperature switch also located close to the oil filter if you disconnect it and it continues to run more than 10 seconds then you have and engine that might be overheating. Anything that gets caught in the air intake on the generator itself ill cause this unit to overheat, I've seen it **** garbage in through the air intake and cause the unit to overheat because of poor air flow. If their are no restrictions and you have good air flow than chances are you have a bad high temperature sensor.

Hope this helps, please let me know.

Dec 01, 2009 | Guardian Rv Generator 4800 Watt, Gasoline,...

1 Answer

My ground wire on my electric panel box was burned and not tightened down enough. Could be just sloppy workmanship from the factory or could it have loosened during traveling? Our rig is 4 years old and...


IF this is in an RV and the A/C is a 220V-AC unit, then the panel ground isn't much of an issue, since most RV A/C's are ungrounded types and would operate fine with just the neutral and both 120V-AC legs connected.

However, if the system neutral and the ground are bonded together and share the same bonding/connection point, AND that is the ONLY connection point in the entire electrical system (highly unlikely) it MIGHT have contributed to the issues with the A/C. But since the breaker was tripping, it tends to make be believe that you had a faulty A/C unit (compressor) and it wasn't related to the electrical supply or power source (onboard generator or shore power hookup/connection).

The only exception for this would be if the A/C unit is a 120V-AC powered unit, then it must have a proper ground/neutral connection to operate correctly, but again, most RV electrical systems have multiple grounding points throughout the vehicle chassis, as the manufactureres tend to use the structural frames as connection points to save on running wiring and to keep the weight down for the electrical system, etc.

The questions to answer are:
  1. Would the A/C work OK for a period of time and then the breaker would trip?
  2. Or was the A/C not able to run at all and everytime you tried to run it, the breaker would trip right away?
If it was situation #1, then the loose ground MIGHT have been the cause of the failure, but proving that will be near impossible, if you are seeking to get the repair charges reversed.

If it was situation #2, then the problem was with the A/C unit to begin with and you might be able to get the compressor replaced under the manufacturers warranty, as most A/C compressors have a 5-7 year warranty on the compressor unit itself. You'll still have to pay for the removal and repair work, but the unit should be covered at no cost.

You'll need to check with your owners manual/booklet to see what the warranty period is and what exactly is covered under the manufacturers warranty to be certain.

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Oct 25, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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