Blower will not kick on

Check fan cage to make sure it turns freely. Check voltage to IFM make sure it is correct for the application. Make sure the motor turns the fan cage in the correct direction. IFM will have high and low speed make sure when you change from fan on to auto that the motor changes speed. If you have an amp draw meter check to see when running the motor pulls the amp load it is rated for. Recheck all wiring.

First check fuse 103 in the battery relay box and swap the blower relay with another similar relay, such as the horn relay. If this isn't the problem, you should hot wire the blower motor to the battery to make sure it works. If all of that is good, next check the switch/motor controller. Take the connector off the blower motor and check the voltage in the connector. With the key on, the voltage should be 12 volts with the fan setting on high. You can also use a 12 volt test light for this test. If there is no voltage, replace the switch/controller at the control panel. If you need any instructions or have any questions, please get back to me.

The blower motor is responsible for driving the fan that blows air across the heater core. Advice: If the blower motor is not working, first you must determine if the blower motor is at fault or if the problem lies in the speed control circuit and/or wiring. One of the quickest ways (depending on accessibility) to test a blower motor, is to hot wire it. If you disconnect the wiring harness and apply battery voltage to the blower motor terminals and it does not spin, then you know that the motor is bad. If it spins, you know the problem is somewhere else in the system. Most blower motors will have two wires or terminals, a positive and a ground. Check the repair guide's wiring diagrams to determine which is which. If you do get it backwards, don't worry. Reverse polarity will only cause the motor to run backwards. For testing purposes, if the motor spins in either direction, the problem lies elsewhere. The one wire design gets it's ground through the blower motor mounting, so the single wire or terminal is your positive connection.

SOUND LIKE ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE REGULATOR FAULTY MAKE SURE DRIVE BELT NOT SLIPPING AND ALTERNATOR ELECTRICAL WIRES NOT LOOSE OR DAMAGED.

The recharge of your a/c system and this is unrelated, could be a bad blower motor or blower motor resistor, have you checked your blower motor fuse? If fuse good, check voltage at blower motor, sit under dash on passenger side, just below dash, you will be able to see it, will have two wire's going to it, only one will have voltage with switch on, if you have voltage replace it, not that hard of a job to do, shop repair time to remove and replace blower motor is .7 tenths of an hour, hope this was very helpful.

Sounds like your blower motor when out, check voltage at the blower motor connector under the dash passenger side under dash, with key and blower on, if you have voltage blower motor out, also tap on it some time it will turn it on, but if it happens again you will have to replace it.

Hi, and yes you have a short in a componant such as a blower motor has quit or shorted out, it could be a number of things. If these units are fairly new, the furnace will have a led light on it that will tell you if you have a control voltage problem, but in this case it trips the 15 amp main. This happens quite a lot. You will need to get to this heater and start looking for anything out of the unusual, burned electrical smell from the windings on the blower motor. You can unplug the blower leads at the circuit board and have someone up top reset the breaker to see if it holds. If so, its the motor that's shot. I know they are hard to work on under the house but you have no choice. You will have to do a process of elimination. It really should be easy to find as it is a dead short on a high voltage part, blower motor, circuit board. Just have a good strong light and have a 5/16 and 1/4 " nut drivers with you. Take a screw driver of each with you also, and have someone up top to work with you. It will save you a lot of time. Keep me posted, please.
Shastalaker7

Ice on the coils can be caused by a variety of things, however you stated the compressor was changed therefore this would lead to a charge problem (low pressure, low temperature) hence frozen evaporator.

yellow line from capacitor to compressor has nothing to do with coil freezing up. sounds like your low on charge again, dirty filter causing coil to freeze, no blower operation, dirty coil.if system low again you might want to start looking for a leak.

I had the same thing happen today except rear control works period (no conditions). I am going to test the leads to the front blower first while on. If voltage is there, then I will check the motor brushes - could be a cheap easy fix (~$6 + time). Alternatively you could replace the motor ($50+ plus time). If no voltage there then it is probably electronics.

It could be a resistor(s) but I believe it is unlikely that *all* the resistors would go at the same time.