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I have a genie garage door operator mod.# IS550/A and it will not open the door all it does is hum when I try to open the door even with the emergency released it just hums

When trying to open the door all the motor will do is hum even with the emergency release pulled if I turn the screw from the back side it will turn for a second then quit and just start humming

Posted by Anonymous on


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 91 Answers

SOURCE: Sears Craftsman 1/2hp Garage Door Opener

Thats one of the symptoms of a lightning strike or a power surge. Without actually being there I would suggest replacing the back-board. But as with lightning strikes and power surges sometimes other electronic components could have been damaged as well.

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Lift-master 1265 Garage Door opener

Open case, & see if white shavings from gear stripped out are laying on bottom of case.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Liftmaster 1/3 HP - humming, but does not open.

It's the gear drive. There are kits online for about $40, if you're semi-handy you can replace it yourself. Search for liftmaster replacement parts.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • 3197 Answers

SOURCE: motor hums but door will not open

Remove the cover and check the drive gear. It is white nylon and is just in front of the motor. The part number is 41A2817 and is available from Sears or any good door opener service company. It comes with instructions.

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: my house was prewired for a garage door opener

Usually the installers will make a not at the end of the wires so that the dry wallers wont dry wall over the wires (it hapens all the time with dry wallers).I would strip off bolth wires by the garage doors.Inside the wire their will be either four little wires or two little wires strip them as well.On one garage door twist two of the wires together so that the wires contact each other.On the other garage door where the other wire comes out of the wall strip the wires (if you have four wires coming out of it you will have to use a multi meter and connect the ends of the probes of the multi meter to the same two collers of wire that you twisted together on the other door.If you have only two wires coming out of it then do the same thing you just wont have to worry about which two collers you are using.I.e. I twist red and black together on one door then I connect my probes to the red and black on the other door.Using the resistance option or the tone option on the multi meter you should be able to tell if this is a single line like I think it is.If it is a single line then the meter (if on the resistance option will read anything other then o.l.).O.l. standing for open line. (If on the tone option then you will hear a tone).If this is one line then you will just have to go to the hole in the ceiling and cut the wire in half using daulfins or barell conectors and a little wire you should be able to extend you wires.(I asume on the door opener their are two different terminals to connect two different doors).DONT pull on the wires.This will only make things worse.per state law the installers have to staple their wires to the studs and pulling on these wires can lead to them breaking off in the walls or them shorting out.It is comon for a low voltage electrican to only use one wire when installing two doors close together they just forgot to leave a little extra wire in the hole in the ceiling and then cut the one wire into two sepret wires in that same hole.

Posted on Jul 28, 2009

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