Question about Craftsman 1983 Sears 572.247202 15" Motorized Scroll Saw Sander Manual blades
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It would have cost more to have Sears fix the saw than I paid for it, so I got my meter out and by checking the voltage drops across all of the electrical connections in the saw , I determined that the on / off switch was defective. This switch is the same switch used to turn the lite on and off, so I took the switch out of the lite and used it in the saw. I ordered a new switch for the lite and will install it when the new one comes. Thanks for your interest and help. fletcher1
Posted on Jul 21, 2009
You might be able to find the manual on the Sears site (this can be a frustrating search - but start with the model number). But even without the manual, this is pretty easy on most scroll saws. There is usually a plastic knob (about the size of a ketchup bottle lid) on top of the machine at the back. You loosen this knob a couple of turns (to the left) and the blade will become very loose. The blade is probably the "pin-end" type - it will have a little cylinder about a 1/4 inch long on each end of the blade. You can buy new blades at any home improvement or hardware store. Besides qualtiy, the main differences will be the length of the blade and the size of the teeth (expressed as TPI or Teeth Per Inch). You need more TPI for cutting harder and thinnner materials, less TPI for softer and thicker material. Put the new blade in like the old one was (teeth pointing down) and tighten the plastic knob. It's hard to be sure how tight is should be, since it doesn't suddenly tighten up. About a 1/4 turn past where is starts to get noticeably tighter is a reasonable place to start. If the blade pops off during use, it wasn't tight enough.
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
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