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Need the resistant s values for rotor and stator for miller blue star 185 serial#LK030017R

Need resistance values for stator and rotor ....for miller blue star 185 serial number:Lk030017R

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I have a Miller Bobcat 225. Engine and AC side OK, no welding output. Looking for a check list to troubleshoot with. I am able to do check with multi-meter. Just don't know values that are normal


Most common problem for no output is the brushes, you should also have approx. 3 ohms resistance across the slip rings. Can get you more info, but will require the serial number of the welder.

Dec 06, 2016 | Miller Welding Tools

1 Answer

I am looking for a starter switch for a Miller Welder. Blue Star 2E, Serial # JA438286


Miller switch part # 011611 you can order through your nearest Miller dealer.

Oct 11, 2014 | Welding Tools

1 Answer

How to test portable generator stator for short in windings


You will need what the factory resistances valuea re supposed to be, cold. Then use a high quality ohm meter with 3 decimal places, disconenct all wires off the stator. Check each wire with a meter to the ground frame, if there is any value, stator is shorted. Then check between stator wires ie L1 L2 and compare resistance value with factory values.

Oct 02, 2014 | Briggs & Stratton Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

3 1984


check you got power comin out of the stator wires when crankin ! check the plug cap resistance isnt too much if its a resister cap as this will reduce the spark also ! try without the cap on and hold near earth and see if it sparks ! soz not got resistance values ! check flywheel key not broken also !

May 19, 2014 | Honda CR 125 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

My battery went dead on my 1100 custom 2005 V-Star? Have a charge and it is now holding it, what could be the cause for the battery going dead?


Hi, Anonymous the following is a comprehensive charging system test that is guaranteed to the find issue with your system.
1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.sloneservices.com/SilverBack/Other-Stuff/VS-1100-chagre-syst.pdf
http://www.motorcycleforum.com/97-yamaha/94508-charging-issue-my-v-star-1100-a.html
Yamaha XVS1100 Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
Yamaha XVS1100R Owner Manual

Jul 10, 2012 | 2001 Yamaha V Star 1100 Custom

1 Answer

How do you trouble shoot the charging system on 1983 shovelhead? Im getting nothing to the battery. Is there a way to check the stator to see if it is generating the proper voltage?


The stator should have no connection to the engine. In other words, using an ohm meter, you should have infinite resistance from any of the stator wires to ground. Open circuit voltage from the stator can be anything from 25 volts up depending on year. If it is a two wire stator, connect a 100 watt 12 volt lamp across the stator wires with engine idling and lamp should light fairly bright, at a fast idle, maybe 1800 to 2000 rpm, lamp should be very bright and may even blow. If all ok up to this, then regulator is more than likely faulty. Of course, all wiring from stator to regulator to battery needs to be checked. Any resistance from stator to ground will require stator to be replaced or regulator will be damaged. If lamp lights dimly or not at all and stator resistance is o/k (very low ohms between the stator wires), then magnets on rotor may have detached and broken up or rotor is loose on crankshaft.

Dec 20, 2011 | 1993 Harley Davidson FXR Super Glide

1 Answer

Dead battery on a 2000 Yamaha road star


Hi, Masseybrett before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage and must be replaced AGM types more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Dead battery
Re Parasitic Battery Drain Road Star Forum Yamaha Road Star
Yamaha XV16AL Service Manual
OEM parts for Yamaha
YAMAHA XV1600A Owner Manual

Sep 24, 2011 | 2002 Yamaha Road Star

1 Answer

My robin subaru 11hp gen just stopped producing elect


Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Robin 11 Hp I am guessing here... RGV6100 (Model?)

Things to look for:
1. Open the control panel and inspect the capacitors and the YELLOW wires from the capacitors going to the stator. Look for signs of wax leakage from the long silver 28 MFD capacitors. You would see it in the bottom of the control panel enclosure. Probe the capacitors with a meter on a resistance (ohms) scale of R X 10,000. You should see a huge jump in resistance and then the meter drifts to infinity. Reverse the test leads looking for the same indication.

2. Inspect for any loose connections from the control panel to the stator. Look for dark or hot connections. Repair as needed.

_________________________________________________________________________________

Stator checks

* STATOR

(1) Measure the insulation resistance between

BLUE lead and the core.

(2) Measure the insulation resistance between

WHITE lead and the core.

(3) Measure the insulation resistance between

YELLOW lead and the core.

(4) Measure the insulation resistance between
BROWN lead and the core.

AC Winding
White / Red = 0.2 Ohm
Black / Blue = 0.25 Ohm

Condensor Winding
Yellow / Yellow = 0.58 Ohm


* ROTOR

Measure the insulation across one of the soldered
terminals of the rotor and the core

Then test across the 2 soldered terminals of the rotor.

Resistance = 1.75 Ohm

NOTE 1 :

Because a diode is soldered to the coil ends at

the terminals, resistance may be measured only

when tester probes touche the terminals in one

combination of polarity. Therefore, if no resistance
reading appears, try checking in reverse polarity.


Diode rectifier test (Lovated between the 2 capacitors)

Orange wire should read to all of the other terminals.
Both Brown wires should read to the Brown White wire (Note polarity)

Those are pretty much the checks that you can do and should reveal where the problem lies.

I think you may have a burned wire / terminal somewhere inside the control panel.
Usually when they just stop working the failures are
1. The rotor (Bad and horribly expensive news)
2. Capacitor wires (Yellow) open
3. Stator wires damaged.
The stators on these units do not usually fail.

All manuals for this unit can be found here (Owner's / parts / Service)
http://www.robinamerica.com/productsupport.aspx?pid=28

If the link doesn't work use:
http://www.robinamerica.com Choose Power products and then customer support. Manuals.

This should give you something to work with. Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Aug 31, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

Honda EV 6010 generator, no pilot light. I am in need of the ohm resistance on the rotor and stator assy. Any help would be great.


Check for burnt stator, if that ok dismantle the generator end, remove the rotor and fully clean the rotor rings.

Mar 01, 2011 | Honda Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

I have a generator that does not produce any volts. I replaced the brush block because it was bad with no help. I took resistance readings of the rotor and stator. Are these in spec?? briggs and stratton...


As long as you have continuity through the stator and rotor windings, and no continuity from the windings to the core, you should be good.

If the brush block was replaced due to it being defective, take a look at the diode and capacitor regulator as well. Using a multimeter, the diode should indicate continuity in one direction, infinite resistance in the other. If you get this, then replace the capacitor. If not, then replace the diode, and likely the capacitor as well.

May 28, 2010 | Briggs & Stratton Electrical Supplies

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