Question about KitchenAid Dryers

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I have replaced thermostat in dryer.

Have replaced thermostat in dryer, but still no heat. heating element checks out ok. could wires be crossed?

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  • pwdutton21 Mar 14, 2009

    I had 240v at the outlet, the problem was one of the three screws that holds the electrical plug had come out, so I wasn't getting 240w to the dryer. Everything checked out, I had actually fixed it. (YAY). Those screws usually never come out, so just goes to show ya....check everything. Thanks again, Versastyle.

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  • 188 Answers

It's not likely that wires are crossed since they're usually cut close to proper length, but it might be a factor. If the element, thermostat and thermal cut-off have checked out ok, you might have a problem with the timer or motor.
Before replacing those, make sure you have 240V at the outlet.
Good luck.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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1 Answer

Replaced all parts for dryer because of no heat dryer runs drum turns had breaker and wiring going into dryer everything ok still no heat could wires be backwards going to replacement parts?


Electric dryers have as many as three thermal fuses. See if you might have missed one. One next to coils, one next to drum and one near the lint trap at air outlet. All three have different trip settings.

Jan 04, 2016 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer quit heating no power to element what is wrong?


The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.

You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.

Jan 23, 2011 | Kenmore 700 6972 Dryer

1 Answer

Model LEQ9508PW1. It has stopped getting hot. Just stopped putting out any heat. I assume that it is probably the heating element that has gone out. Is there anything else I should check first before...


Check first the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat located on the heating element housing by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect the power then start the dryer. The problem is in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make.

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Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat both bypassed. If the dryer still doesn't heat up, take the heating element out and inspect it for damage. Replace the heating element if damaged.

Jan 18, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers

2 Answers

Daryer is not heating


The heating circuit of the electric dryer consist of the following parts. The timer, the heating element, the hi-limit thermostat, the safety thermostat, the operating thermostat, the temperature switch and the motor centrifugal switch.
If any of these parts fail, the dryer will not heat. Now, most people when the dryer stops heating, replace the heating element or the timer with out checking to make sure that those parts are bad. Rule number one is, don't assume that the part is bad with out checking it with a multimeter.
The first and most important thing you need to do, is to disconnect the dryer from the wall outlet before doing any kind of work on it. Most parts will need to be checked for continuity and the dryer must be disconnected from the wall outlet.
Most of the times the part causing the problem is behind the dryer and you can gain access by removing the back panel.
Remove the back panel on the dryer. Disconnect one of the heating element wires and take a reading between the two terminals on the heating element. The reading should be between 10 and 50 ohms. If the heating element is good, check the hi-limit thermostat by removing one of the wires and checking for continuity. Continuity means, that electricity could pass through the part that you are checking.
The hi-limit usually blows when there is an obstruction on the exhaust hose, so make sure that the exhaust hose is not obstructed when replacing the hi-limit kit.
If the hi-limit thermostat and the heating element are ok, check the operating thermostat. The operating thermostat is in charge of maintaining the temperature inside of the drum at about 150 degrees. You will need to check from the two terminals with the red wires attached on it.
Those where the parts that fail more often in the Whirlpool electric dryer. The timer, the motor centrifugal switch, the temperature switch are a little harder to check because there are may different one. You will need to use your wiring schematic to see how to check them.

Aug 17, 2010 | Frigidaire GLER341A Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer Heats for 30 Minutes then stops heating


Hello there :
what you are going to want to do is to troubleshoot the heating circuit
if you have a multimeter
there is a thermal Cut-Out switch that is connected to the heater box.) -simply unplug wires and take reading from the end connetors
your reading should be 0 ohms. and nothing else
Next check
a part called the Hi-Limit Thermostat that is connected to the heater box, it should be located closest to the heating element wire leads unplug the wires and take the reading across the 2 wire connections . this should give you a reading of 0 ohms and nothing else.
Now if any of these 2 parts are not in this range they need to be replaced and i would recommend that you replace them as a set cause if one usually goes out then the other one will soon follow ok

I hope this is very helpful for you
Best regards Michael

Jan 09, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore series 70 dryer will not heat up replaced heating element thermostats check ok with ohm meter


If heating element was replaced and still no heat, Then what I would do is test the voltage current in the wiring and see if there is actually power to the element.

All parts to make dryer heat are:
heating element
thermal fuse
thermostat
timer

any one of these units can be faulty


Oct 10, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kitchenaid superba dryer won't heat Where is the heater fuse located?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
Meter testing and usage tips.
1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter.
2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work.
3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode.
4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element.
5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches.
6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter.
7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ).
But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter....
To check the thermal fuse  - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out  - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the thermostats for continuity -  - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.
To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.

How to take apart information for GE style dryers
How to take apart information for Inglis - Whirlpool - Kenmore dryers
How to take apart information for Maytag dryers
How to take apart information for Frigidaire and White Westinghouse
How to take apart information for Admiral, Norge, Magic Chef and Crosley

Mar 30, 2009 | KitchenAid Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer Model 110 Heating Element & Thermostat


believe that model has a relay under console..pull console end caps off remove screw on each end roll console back..if your model has an electronic bd it also has a heat relay it will be the one with 2 large red wires.. a quick ck would be to unplug power remove the red wires and tape bear ends together pug back up turn on dryer if it heats unplug and exchange the 2 relays the one with the blue wires is the motor relay and is same as heat relay try again if motor fails to start bad relay if motor starts bad control bd

Aug 09, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101


Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.

Dec 01, 2007 | Kenmore 72982 Gas Dryer

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