Question about Fisher and Paykel 23 in. DD-603SS Built-in Dishwasher
My dish drawer is 3 years old now. It is a DS603I. I just had a F1 problem that I cured by blow drying the control board inside the unit. I ran 1 load about 1/2 way and the dish drawer shut down. Now it just turns on and off for hours and then quits. A couple hours go by and it starts up again with the on and off routine. Any one know the problem here?
You wrote "I had a F1 problem that I cured by blow drying the control board"
I see techs on other sites telling people to "blow dry" the mains filter board (which has the flood sensor and controls lid motor operation) and it always makes me wince.
F1 is a flood condition. All you do by drying out the board is stop the machine from trying to tell you something is wrong with it. There is a reason why the board got wet in the first place. You won't cure anything by simply drying it out if there is an underlying condition causing a leak.
On your dishwasher, as you may or may not be aware, the lid is controlled by two motors that pull the lid down onto the top of the drawer in order to provide a seal. If, for some reason, the lid either does not come down on one or both sides or something is interfering with the lid's mechanical operation, the machine will leak, and the flood sensor will trip. The machine will appear to "go on by itself" and run the drain pump constantly.
The cure is to determine what happened.
1. Improper loading:
When someone places a tall dish, utensil, etc in the wrong position, it will "prop" the lid ajar when the lid comes down. A gap of even 1/4" can cause a leak. It is in cases such as this that drying out the mains filter board (yes it is called mains plural) will restore machine operation, as it was a temporary issue that caused the leak (More on this later).
2. Broken hose link support strap:
On older model 603's, there is a nylon strap that guides the hoses and wiring harness as you open and close the drawer. Over time, this strap can break right in the middle. What happens next, is when the drawer is closed, the strap gets caught between the lid and the drawer's edge, causing a leak. This is easy to see if you dis-engage the tub clips on the drawer rails and slide the drawer forward enough to see the strap behind the drawer. In a case such as this you can blow-dry that board all you want; it's not going to do much good, as the machine will leak again as soon as that strap gets caught in the lid. The fix is to replace the broken link support with the updated kit from Fisher Paykel, which is a part number 528437. You can purchase them here:
On double-drawer machines, I always replace both straps, even if only one is broken.
3. Worn or inoperative lid actuator/motor:
As mentioned, the lid is motorized. There are two motors, one on each side of the drawer. They can become worn mechanically, or they can fail electrically or fail to operate because that mains filter board is not sending the signal to one or both motors. The machine's main control board (the one where you select cycles) can also cause a problem.
There should be a detailed tech sheet behind the drawer (lower drawer on double units) that has instructions on how to put the machine in diagnostic mode and you can run the lid motors with the drawer open and check if one is not coming down. And again on older 603, the lid motors can stop working correctly. If they are tan in color, replace them with the new style, which are black in color and have rubber boots over the arms to keep water from running down the shafts and into the motor. Part numbers are 528112 and 528113 and are always changed as a pair. Lid motors can be obtained here:
Bad or damaged Mains Filter Board:
This needs to be read over carefully.
On older 603's there will be a GREY colored plastic cover over that board. This is a tipoff that you have the early model. The underside of that board in the area of the flood sensor is uncoated and the solid-state components are exposed to moisture. Over time, calcified deposits build up around the edge of the board on the side where the flood sensor protrudes. These deposits can cause a "phantom F1' condition where the machine thinks there is a leak but there isn't one. Whenever I speak to a customer on the techline who says "I am sure there is no leak but the F1 is activated" I tell them to examine the underside of the Mains board for these deposits. The other thing to be aware of with regard to "blow drying" the board, is that it will warp and sag in the center and this can break the tiny solder joints and cause all kinds of problems for you. The most recent version of this part has a nice, thick almost rubberized coating over the bottom of the board and it's much more durable that the first versions. it also comes with a WHITE colored plastic cover and this is how you can tell if you have newest version of the board. You always should replace the grey cover with the white one. You can get the updated part here:
I hope this info is useful to you.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
I also had this same problem (top drawer turning on and off constantly). I had previously had an F1 error, but there was no water in the base of the machine.
The issue turned out to be a corroded spot on the lower drawer heating element. For some reason the top drawer controller is connected via the bottom drawer element. So it was getting some power, but not enough.
Replacing the element of the bottom drawer fixed the problem.
Posted on Feb 10, 2016
There is a little plastic clip that holds the main circuit board in place and aligns the sensor with a little hole on the unit. If this plastic clip breaks, the circuit board moves and misaligns the sensor, and the unit cuts on and off. If you remove the cover of the dishwasher to view the electronics this broken clip may fall out. You may be able to rig the circuit board to be stable and prevent this; otherwise they make you buy a new circuit board at a heft cost to fix
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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