Question about Fuji Cycling
1999 fuji mx480 purchased new, since new, rear tire has rubbed on frame by chain. Tire does not rub between frame by seat. I brought it back to sports auth where I purchased the bike. they were not able to fix this and suggested to run the back tire under inflated a bit which did help some. I have disassembled the rear hub to repack the bearings and notice that the axle is set closer to the chain side where it is rubbing with a larger bushing on the opposite side holding the wheel closer to the chain side. My question: can I position the hub further to the right as I have about 2 mm left in the drop out on the rubbing side and add a washer (spacer) or is this a much bigger problem? side issue, when I removed the bearings, there were 9 on the gear cog side and 10 on the other side. Is this correct for this bike or is it possible that an extra was dropped into hub and did not end up where they are supposed to be? thanks Donn
Posted by Anonymous on
Sounds like it may be a couple things, this this is a five year old post, this is for other users. In your case the wheel may not be seated in the dropouts correctly, loosen the quick release or axle nuts and pull the wheel as far back in the drop outs as it will go and retighten. If it is still rubbing then the drop outs them selves are out of alignment. Most competent LBS's (local bike shop's) have a set of drop out H tools that are used to check front and rear drop out alignment and can be used for minor adjustment of the drop outs. In a more extreme case the frame could be out of alignment or one of the drop outs could have been welded incorrectly and the frame sneaked past the manufacturers quality control processes. When rebuilding your hubs make sure there is an equal amount of axle protruding from each side of the hub to insure that it is centered properly. Some hubs use 8, 9, or 10 bearings, as long as they all fit in the hub race without binding or overlapping (so to speak) you are ok and they are easy to loose. I use a telescoping magnet to extract them from the hub when I rebuild. Most LBS's will sell you new bearings, just take the old ones in and they will have a tool to measure the diameter to provide you with the right size. One more thing; there are standard drop out spacing sizes, measured on the inside faces of the drop outs, and depending on how many speeds your rear wheel has. 6-7 speeds is 120mm on older bikes from the 80's and before. Most bikes today have 135-145mm spacing to accommodate the larger gear clusters of 8,9,10,11 speeds.
Posted on Apr 11, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Not sure if you ever got a response. I can help with half the issue. These Mavic SSC-SL wheels are a breeze to disassemble the rear hub (I've done so many times). I have these wheels on road bikes AND cross bikes. You DON'T need (nor want to use a vise). Yes, the one side is a 5 mm allen key. While the other side seems like it has nothing, you can actually (with your hand) simply grab the black axle and pull it away/off the hub. It will be a bit stubborn, but trust me, it comes off. There is an O-ring on the inside that simply keeps it sealed and on. Once you have that part off, you now insert a 10 mm allen key. With the 5mm in the other side, you can now twist and remove the entire axle and freehub. Careful, the freehub will now come off the axle, exposing the seals, a washer, AND 2 pawls that are in place by springs. Be careful not to lose the springs.
There's not much to it. Now simply inspect, lube and reassemble. Btw, this is also how you change your wheel from a Shimano hub to a campy hub.
Hope that helps.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
It may be your power steering. Try checking the level of the power steering fluid. If you are not familiar with where this is check your owners manual and it will definitely tell you where it's located under the hood. If the fluid is at a good level it is most likely something to do with your wheel alignment. This can only be checked and serviced by a licenced motor mechanic or specialist alignment centre.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
SOURCE: Back tire replacement
Before doing anything else, loosen the rear wheel and make sure the axle is fully seated in the dropouts, then tighten it. The brake should not be able to contact the tire, only the rim.
Not sure from what is here what kind of bike and brand of brakes or derailleurs you have.
You could always Google it. There are lots of how-to's with illustrations out there. For example, "shimano rear brake adjustment" finds a whole bunch of advise.
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
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