Question about Dremel 400 Xpr Rotary Tool

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Turn the dremel on the bit doesn't spin

Accidently hit lock button with the dremel on. motor runs, shaft won't turn.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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rowdy45176
  • 2176 Answers

SOURCE: broken flex shaft on Dremel model 232 broke

You can go to Dremel.com and find assistance or call their toll free number at 1-800-437-3635 and speak with their tech assistance. Let me know if you still need more help. Also I tried using the model number provided and it came up empty that is why I am directing you to this site yourself.

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Motor works but no drive to shaft.

My 15 year old Dremel 395 had the same problem so I took it apart. There is a plastic spline between the motor and the output shaft to the chuck . My plastic spline was split and had many of its teeth sheared off. The shaft lock acts on the output shaft side of this spline, so it was ok. Otherwise everything looked great; bearings ran free & had little play free, brushes ok. To be fair, my Dremel had seen hard use & doesn't owe me anything. No luck so far finding replacement spline parts, which if available should be easy to install. To take apart your tool, just google "Dremel Disassembly". GOOD LUCK!

Posted on Mar 31, 2010

apenning
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Dremel tool motor still works but shaft won't turn?

Here's the email from I got from Dremel (in my case the flex coupling broke):
Inside the tool is a flex coupling and spline driver.

The flex coupling is # 2615294309 and the price is $ 1.25.
This is the hollow plastic sleeve about 1" long with grooves on the
inside, that goes between the motor shaft and the output shaft.

The spline driver is # 2615294308 at $ 1.00.
Spline driver sits on the direct end of the motor shaft. The flex
coupling sits over the spline driver. Spline driver is about 1/4",
hard plastic with grooves on the outside.


Total shipping for orders under $ 5.00 is $ 2.50. Orders over $
5.00 is $ 4.00.


I have provided ordering instructions below.

To order by phone: 1-800-437-3635, Monday-Friday from 7 am to 6 pm
central time. VISA, MasterCard or Discover is accepted.

To order by mail:
Dremel
4915 21st Street
Racine WI 53406

Posted on Apr 17, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a Dremel 300 and the shaft lock assembly

The "nub" on the shaft lock assembly (internal) has worn down and the assembly needs to be replaced.

If you feel competent to open your Dremel yourself (and it's not on warranty) then order the shaft lock assembly from Dremel (early 2011 price: $1.25, not sure how much postage & handling might be). After opening the tool you will find a metal ring and a small piece (the lock) which it holds in place around the shaft where the lock button is located. Remove the old pieces and replace with the new ones and reassemble the tool.

Otherwise you can send the tool to Dremel to be fixed.

Posted on Jan 21, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Dremel shaft lock spinning

Trying to fix a similar issue. The pin that gets pushed in by the button (and returned by the spring) seems to be fine. The hole in the rotating shaft that the pin fits into, however, is in the wrong place, so the pin never goes into the hole! All I need to do is somehow pull the whole front part of the shaft out about 1/16th of an inch, and it'd be fine. I just can't seem to budge it though. Any tricks, anyone?

Posted on Feb 12, 2011

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1 Answer

Have Dremel MOD 395 motor runs and speed control works bot shaft won't turn--worth fixing ??? and how


Hi Larry, The tool that you require parts for was discontinued many years ago. Limited parts are available from Dremel. Inside the tool is a flex coupling and spline driver. The flex coupling is # 2615294309 and the price is about $ 1.25. This is the hollow plastic sleeve about 1" long with grooves on the inside, that goes between the motor shaft and the output shaft. The spline driver is # 2615294308 for about $ 1.00. Spline driver sits on the direct end of the motor shaft. The flex coupling sits over the spline driver. Spline driver is about 1/4", hard plastic with grooves on the outside. Total shipping for orders under $ 5.00 is $ 2.50. Orders over $5.00 is $ 4.00. There could be a tax charge depending on which state you live in. Here is how to order: Call Dremel Customer Service at 1-800-437-3635 , Monday-Friday from 7 am to 6 pm central time. VISA, MasterCard or Discover to place a Visa, MasterCard or Discover order. To order by mail: Dremel 4915 21st Street Racine, WI 53406 USA 1-800-437-3635 ext. 3636

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find the little square attachment and place on the end of the dremel tool. I didid the same thing. Worked fine after I put the other part on.

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see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Lid Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and transmission. Another common problem is the lid switch.

Drive Belt If the washer won't spin, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin properly.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer spin the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.
Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Drive Block If the washer won't spin the drive block might be worn out or may have come loose. Underneath the agitator the drive block connects the inner tub (the one that spins around) to the transmission. If the drive block wears out the transmission shaft will still spin but the tub may not - or it may spin slowly. This also usually causes a lot of noise. The drive block is relatively easy to replace.

Clutch Assembly If the washer won't spin, the clutch assembly might be worn out. The clutch assembly makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. The clutch is not repairable, if it is loud or not working properly it will need to be replaced.

Clutch Band kit If the washer won't spin, the clutch band kit might be worn out. The clutch makes the connection between the transmission and the inner tub. It is designed to allow the tub to get up to the proper spin speed gradually. As the clutch wears out it may prevent the tub from spinning. If the washer won't spin, this clutch band kit may need to be replaced.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged It will have to be replaced.

Tub Bearing If the washer won't spin the tub bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Tub Seal and Bearing Kit If the washer won't spin the tub seal and bearing might have seized. This is a common problem and relatively easy to replace.

Bearing If the washer won't spin the bearing might have seized. This is not common. The bearing doesn't require any normal maintenance. They generally go bad when the tub seal fails and allows water to leak past into the bearing.
Basket Drive If the washer won't spin the basket drive clutch might be worn out. The basket drive sits on top of the transmission and engages with the inner tub. If the basket drive wears out the tub won't spin.

Basket Drive Hub Kit If the washer won't spin the basket drive hub might be worn out. The hub is a set of plastic gears underneath the agitator. The basket drive hub kit is easy to replace with standard hand tools.
Transmission If the washer won't spin the transmission might be worn out or defective. There are numerous more likely causes when a washer won't spin, which should be checked first.
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I took apart my Dremel 395 Type 3 and the spring popped out for the shaft lock. Where does the spring attach to?


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I have a Dremel 300 and the shaft lock assembly isn't working to hold the shaft so I can get the collet nut loose. When I try to get the collet nut loose while holding the button of the shaft lock the...


The "nub" on the shaft lock assembly (internal) has worn down and the assembly needs to be replaced.

If you feel competent to open your Dremel yourself (and it's not on warranty) then order the shaft lock assembly from Dremel (early 2011 price: $1.25, not sure how much postage & handling might be). After opening the tool you will find a metal ring and a small piece (the lock) which it holds in place around the shaft where the lock button is located. Remove the old pieces and replace with the new ones and reassemble the tool.

Otherwise you can send the tool to Dremel to be fixed.

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1 Answer

Motor works but no drive to shaft.


My 15 year old Dremel 395 had the same problem so I took it apart. There is a plastic spline between the motor and the output shaft to the chuck . My plastic spline was split and had many of its teeth sheared off. The shaft lock acts on the output shaft side of this spline, so it was ok. Otherwise everything looked great; bearings ran free & had little play free, brushes ok. To be fair, my Dremel had seen hard use & doesn't owe me anything. No luck so far finding replacement spline parts, which if available should be easy to install. To take apart your tool, just google "Dremel Disassembly". GOOD LUCK!

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Dremel shaft lock spinning


Trying to fix a similar issue. The pin that gets pushed in by the button (and returned by the spring) seems to be fine. The hole in the rotating shaft that the pin fits into, however, is in the wrong place, so the pin never goes into the hole! All I need to do is somehow pull the whole front part of the shaft out about 1/16th of an inch, and it'd be fine. I just can't seem to budge it though. Any tricks, anyone?

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