Question about John Deere Seat 310a 310b 401 401b 401c 401d At20490

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John deere 310b hydraulics suddenly stopped working

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: system creeps down even when tractor is operating.

There are 2 potential problems -
1. Leaking spool on the control valve - rebuild the vale.

2. Cylinder blow-by. Disassemble piston and replace the seals.

To test if its the cylinder - retract the cylinders all the way... remove the hoses on the blind end (non rod end) of each cylinder, and again pull the valve to the retract position.

If fluid continues to pour out of the cylinder - the piston seal is damaged, and the affected cylinder must be repaired.

To test if the valve spool is faulty - disconnect the a and b ports just after the valve. Turn on the system and check for seepage from the disconnected lines (without moving the lever).

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

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jimmy nutron
  • 132 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1968?? 2020 john deere. The hydraulic

make shure none of your hydrolic cylenders are extended and fill it up till you can stick you finger in there and it barley touches if you do this when cylenders are extended you will over fill it.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

nova2nv
  • 197 Answers

SOURCE: our john deere sabre 17.542 hs ride on mower will

If traction drive belt is turning you should check the input drive shaft on top of trans to see if it is turning as well,Traction drive belt is suspect but could be a stripped out input shaft pulley.Make sure the machine tow lever is not pulled out,rear of machine by tow hitch.Also pull rubber caps off of both axle ends to see if one the axles is turning free inside of rim,if so remove wheel and replace axle key.

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

wfservices
  • 262 Answers

SOURCE: i need to rebuild a hydraulic cylinder on a john

  1. This cylinder is not to hard to disassemble.
  2. Place upright in vise or suitable bracing.
  3. Using a block or dowel of wood(maybe rubber mallet also), depress the top cap of the cylinder to relieve tension on the ring.
  4. Use a small edged screw driver or pick and spin "retainer" in until the bent end comes to the opening.
  5. Lift up and rotate the ring more to allow the ring to pass over the edge of the opening.
  6. Once the retainer is started you can tap it with the wood and rubber mallet around the circumference of the cylinder to release the retainer from the groove.
  7. If you havent done so by now the oil should be drained.
  8. with the cylinder firm in vise(but not too firm to "distort the integrity of the cylinder.) Place the cylinder Sideways so you can pull out piston and rod assembly.*** Put hose or suitable drain on holes of cylinder***. With the motion of the piston the residual oil will tend to spray out.
  9. Pull on the piston and position it to bottom out on the top gland(cap) ie:full extension
  10. Place support under the rod to avoid damage. The gland is a tight tolerant fit with use of O-rings and backup rings. Too much offset can lead to damaging gland assembly, and jamming in the cylinder. You may be able to just hold with hand also depends on size, bore, stroke, pressure rating. Use due dilligence.
  11. Now that its out you have the piston assembly with gland in hand..**if only the rod comes out there are more steps to take, and you need a new rod but sometimes its more cost effective to buy a new cylinder. If there is a farm supplier or hydraulic dealer near they can certifiably /replace repair the cylinder for you. Hydraulic pressure is kind of like lightening. If it strikes you under pressure it can kill you.*** Using the dead blow or rubber mallet try to pop the gland out by using the piston/rod assembly as the puller. You may not have to remove the top clevice or other end of the cylinder, so maybe you could tap on that.
  12. The piston can be removed from the rod depending again on make. Usually a socket head cap screw or king nut holding it in place to the rod.
  13. When the piston is removed you should be able to slide gland off also.
  14. You'll need that pick and or the screwdriver to pick out the seals carefully. Let me know if you require more...WF Services

Posted on Apr 07, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a 1982 John Deere 310A backhoe. The

try changing out the hydro filters

Posted on Feb 17, 2011

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F525. Updated mower switch by John Deere is not engaging mower


The John Deere F525, a front cutting machine, has 3 fuses.
20 Amp
15 Amp
10 Amp

Check the 15 amp fuse. I believe this supports the PTO clutch. If you replace the fuse and it blows again, check the electric clutch. You will likely find burnt or melted wires. The bearings do go out on these clutches causing them to run hot and eventually burn up.

PTO Clutch will not engage: There is a very fine one page discussion on evaluating electric clutches at this site:

http://www.messicks.com/Articles/FixingElectricClutch.aspx

My JD tech manual, which covers the entire LA 100 series, agrees with the electrical specifications. It states that the Electric PTO Clutch should show the following:

Resistance 3.7 ohms
Current Draw 3.25 amps
It does not give the air gap.

It does include a note to check the PTO Clutch Key for damage or if missing. So there is a drive key between the PTO Clutch and the shaft. Additionally, it recommends checking the tightness of the cap screw. That's the screw or bolt that holds the clutch on the shaft.
Cap Screw torque 55 lb-ft (75 N.m).

If the fuse blows, I recommend you check the resistance of the clutch. If the clutch is shorting to ground it will show zero resistance when you ohms the connector wire to a ground position. In which case, you will have to replace the clutch.

Fixing Electric Clutches

Other possibilities.
On the F525 there is a cut-off switch in the hydraulic system. It is a low pressure cut off. If you were running the mower and deck and then it suddenly stopped, it may be low pressure in the hydraulics. It will not automatically reset as you are using the same volume for the drive pumps. Once the oil gets low enough it cuts out the deck drive 1st, then the drive pumps.

Apr 16, 2015 | John Deere Garden

1 Answer

My john dere has no comoression


remove the valve cover and make sure the valves are closing if they are remove the head inspect the gasket and valves and make sure that the piston is going up and down when turning it

Sep 23, 2012 | John Deere Seat 310a 310b 401 401b 401c...

1 Answer

John Deere 310G that the hydraulics quit working


You just go to the link I attached I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem.
John Deere 310G

May 29, 2017 | John Deere Garden

1 Answer

My john deere 316 stopped moving forward and reverse and the hydrolics stop on the blade. what could cause this?


HAVE YOU CHECKED THE TRANSMISSION/HYDRAULIC
OIL? THEY ARE THE SAME. ON SOME TRACTORS THIS
CAN BE CHECKED AT THE REAR OF THE TRACTOR JUST
BELOW THE SEAT. IT COULD ALSO BE A BAD HYDRAULIC
PUMP.

Jan 01, 2011 | John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520...

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