Question about Garden
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Cant remove blade on lawn mower
Follow directions. See if this works;
Warning! Switch off, remove the isolator
key, battery and grassbox before adjusting
Always wear gardening gloves when handling
or working near the sharp blades.
Turn the machine on its right side and inspect
the blade; if blunt or damaged, replace.
Use the following procedure to remove and replace
Insert a screwdriver into hole 26 to lock the
drive. Hold the blade 30 using gardening gloves
(not provided) and use a spanner (not provided)
to remove the blade bolt 29, blade washer 28
and blade 30.
Fit the blade 30, blade washer 28 and the blade
bolt 29. Ensure that the blade is the correct way
up (so that this symbol can be seen located
as in figure I) and tighten the bolt 29 firmly.
Ensure the screwdriver is removed before attempting
to turn the machine on.
If this procedure does not work then try the following;
It is not uncommon for the blade bolt to become seized onto the shaft due to all the gunk and moisture on the underside of the deck. Try to soak the bolt several times over with penetrating oil ( WD 40, PB Blaster, etc). Spray the bolt head, the top of the blade where it contacts the shaft, etc. Do this several times and let the penetrating oil soak in. Hit the bolt head gently several times with a hammer to loosen up the corrosion. Then try to remove the bolt per directions.
Hope this helps, if so Please rate, Thanks, and Good Luck!
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
SOURCE: Problem mowing my lawn.
I had the same problem and I already found those recommended solutions\ causes on the web:
1. The motor isn't on full throttle.
2. The blade is upside down.
3. The grass is too high when cutting it.
4. Overlap your cuts.
It helped my problem/ I hope it will help yours too!
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
Since it starts, it doesn't sound like an electrical problem, it sounds like it runs out of air. To test this, remove the air filter, start it and see if it stays running. If so, replace the air filter.
It could also be varnish or sludge in the carb bowl. This is best serviced by a technician if you have little mechanical prowess.
After sitting for 3 years, I would at minimum do all of this before I expected it to run ok:
After sitting 3 years I would also replace the fuel line itself!
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
Remember the belt rule, V of the belt goes in V pulleys.Flat pulleys that are stationary or move get the back of the belt. You can figure it out. Its not rocket science. Remember at some point there has to be a tensioner,usually gets the back of the belt if its a flat pulley. U may have to remove the spring and then reattach the spring after the belt is routed.
Posted on Oct 29, 2009
The 'DIPLOMAT' series of WEBBs is bad news, its NOT a WEBB! Webb were swallowed by qualcast-atco-suffolk, who dunped Webbs tooling, & dressed up punches & commodores in thin disguises, dumped the briggs & stratten engine for their own alloy job, & charged a rip off premium for the Webb decals!
The qualcast suffolk alloy engine suffers from a WIPAC electronic ignition unit. As it gets old, it fails, sometimes completely, sometimes as it warms up. Once cool, it works for a while again.
Not too hard to replace, but hard on the wallet, £69 genuine, £40 fake! On the whole its not too bad an engine if cared for & oil changed often. better to look on ebay for a cheap used HONDA engine & transplant! R-E-L-I-A-B-L-E !............I did! ( £35 honda gc series, 5,5hp! )
Posted on Apr 02, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks very useful information.....Many Thanks"
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