Question about Dryers
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the heating element/thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
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Posted on Apr 20, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: roper dryer won't heat
first thing is check the voltage between the black and red terminals at the back of the dryer. you should read 240v. then check the voltage between the balck and the white and the red and the white. there should be 120v at each. if all that is good remove the back of the dryer. make sure you unplug it first. then no the lower right you will see the heater. near the top of the heater you will see a red wire and a red/with a white stripe wire attached to the high limit cutout. remove one wier and check the switch for continuity. if you read nothing its bad and thats why there is o heat. Ifnit checks good replace the wire and then remove one red wire from the heater. then check the heater with your meter. most times on the whirlpool products its one of the two that is bad. check the two thing I described and if you still need help feel free to get back to me and we can go from there.Good luck
Posted on Aug 22, 2007
The following link explains how to troubleshoot and dryer "no heat" problem and the common causes:
Read through the link thoroughly, paying particular attention to the section that discusses proper ventilation. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by insufficient air flow which, in turn, causes the dryer to overheat to failure. More commonly, the Thermal Cut-Off (TCO) fails. You will need to check all the components mentioned in order to be sure. If you haven't had your dryer ventilation cleaned or inspected in a while, now would be a good time to do so. Failure to correct any potential existing problems, can cause premature failure of any parts you replace.
If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know, so I can provide you with a viable solution. i hope this helps you.
Posted on Jan 22, 2009
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.
maytag performa dryer Model PDGT910AWW
"No Heat" complaint.
Firstly, make sure that you have selected/ascertained a "Heat" setting, then read the checklist below provided by; www.repairclinic.com
They also provide disassembly diagrams and repair parts..
If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:
Gas valve coils
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.
The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.
Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 17, 2011 | Dryers
Mar 16, 2011 | Roper RGS7646KQ Gas Dryer
Mar 01, 2011 | Roper RGX4634KQ Gas Dryer
Jan 03, 2011 | Roper RGS7646KQ Gas Dryer
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
Dec 11, 2010 | Roper RGX4634KQ Gas Dryer
Dec 02, 2010 | Roper Dryers
Sep 08, 2010 | Roper Dryers
Apr 18, 2009 | Dryers
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