Question about Dryers
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the heating element/thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
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Posted on Apr 20, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: roper dryer won't heat
first thing is check the voltage between the black and red terminals at the back of the dryer. you should read 240v. then check the voltage between the balck and the white and the red and the white. there should be 120v at each. if all that is good remove the back of the dryer. make sure you unplug it first. then no the lower right you will see the heater. near the top of the heater you will see a red wire and a red/with a white stripe wire attached to the high limit cutout. remove one wier and check the switch for continuity. if you read nothing its bad and thats why there is o heat. Ifnit checks good replace the wire and then remove one red wire from the heater. then check the heater with your meter. most times on the whirlpool products its one of the two that is bad. check the two thing I described and if you still need help feel free to get back to me and we can go from there.Good luck
Posted on Aug 22, 2007
SOURCE: no heat
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These are the standard things to check out a gas Dryer. If
you feel confident
Do you get a "glow" the glow (orange in color) is for the gas to be ignited?
.1 No glow indicates a no voltage problem to the burner or the igniter is out. Confirm power to the gas valve area 110V usually. If you have voltage the problem is somewhere in the area your in; probably the igniter.
2 If you don't have 110 Volts the problem is in the controls. The fuse link, the timer contacts, the centrifugal switch on the motor, and the heater safety thermostat and operating (s), are all suspect and have to be eliminated 1 by 1.
Hope this helps. With any luck all you need is a new igniter.
Clean the duct out while replacing the igniter if so because the main thing that causes igniter burn out is low air flow. A kinked Dryer vent hose, lint, and plugged up fan circulator on the motor, or if yours has little holes in the inside cabinet where the air is taken to be heated and recirculated, these can get clogged with lint also and cause a problem are the 4 main causes of low air flow..
Hope this helps and please rate me accordingly Thank you and good luck.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
Sounds like you have a broken drum belt.
If you have to replace your drive belt and if you have a front loading machine.
First you will need to unplug your dryer from the electric.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley.
While you have the drum out, I would also recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a noise like a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
If the belt is not broken, then I would check to see if the timer switch is working properly, if not then you may need to replace it.
I hope this helps
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
SOURCE: Roper dryer runs but has no heat
my roper dryer does not heat up i checked thermostat, thremo fuse and heating element they show working could it be my timer when dryer is running timer does nt advance it stays in the same position.
Posted on Feb 07, 2010
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