I install my sound system (2 wires) red power 12volt (battery) black ground when I turned off my amp still ear some background nose from my speakers an it drain my battery I install a a way switch but now when I turn off the switch my amp loose all the memory so I cannot set anything
SOURCE: my vibe 286 4000 watt lanzar amp wont stay on..
Check your speaker load. It probably should be 4 ohms per channel. Also, if you are bridging then you must double your ohms load. It may be that your old amp could tolerate a lower impedence (ohms load) than the new amp. Do this now so you don't fry your amp. Good luck.
SOURCE: lanzar vibe 230 400 watts amp
With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.
SOURCE: re sent wire diagram gat all messed up
Hi
have we spoke before in previous post?
the red can go to any 12v live peramanent such as wire to clock or other item that has power with ignition off and the same with the yellow if your putting these to the same permanent live say from clock you can join these to together red/yellow to red on clock
the black can go to any metal or neg wire.
This should then have your device working the only problem im looking at for you now is the pink wire as this stops you using the device whilst driving as it goes to handbrake but i need to find out if its live or negative.
You could just wire the red/yellow to live and black to earth then see if it switches on and works if not then let me know and ill see about the pink wire ok
Makes sure you use inline fuses on the live wires so as not to short the device out.
Make sure you know what is permanent live to put the yellow/red wire to.
It doesnt need to be ignition it only says this so you cant use it with ignition off but you can wire it into any live feed from clock or switches so its up to you what to wire it to its just the pink wire im concerned about.
PINK: does it tell you to put it to live or earth on handbrake switch?
let me know ok
SOURCE: Pioneer 760W (Mosfet Power Supply) Amplier
If you are connecting the negative lead of the voltmeter to the chassis of the car, and then checking the voltage at the amp on the ground power input of the amplifier, then your amplifier is not grounded properly. The amp should also be grounded on the chassis of the car, so if you have 4 V DC on it, it can not possibly be grounded to the chassis. The chassis is the same potential at any point on the car.
Could it be that the 4 V DC is at the power terminals +B or positive voltage? That would not be an uncommon thing to have since the amplifier will hold some charge after it is turned off and that would be normal.
Since you have a voltage meter, you could check the current draw of the amplifier if your meter also have a setting for current or amps.
If so, connect the meter in series with the ground of the amplifier. That means to disconnect the ground wire at the amplifier, and use the meter to complete the ground connection by putting one lead of the meter on the ground wire that should be connected to the chassis of the car and the other lead to the ground terminal of the amplifier. It does not matter which lead you connect to the wire or the amplifier, that would only make your measurement i postive current or negative current, but the meter must be set up properly for current. Most of them have a diiferent jack to put the positive lead into for current. most have two different jacks. If yours does also, choose the lead with the larger amp rating. Most have 10A and 300mA, the lareger amp rating is 10A. That is 10 amps max and the 300mA means 300 milli-amps which is .3 amps max.
Do this with the amplifier turned off and the car off. If you measure any current at that point you do have a current draw with the amp off and the amp would need to be serviced by a professional. If you have no current draw there, the amp is not the source of your battery draining. This would find out for certain if the amplifier is really draining the battery.
If you have found this information help a rating of "FixYa" would be appreciated.
If you need more help just ask,
Dave
SOURCE: SELF POWERED SUB BGW M1100
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I talked to Angie who was the best ! she transfered me over to
the Master Tech/Engineer (Larry)
I explained to Larry my problem. He pulled the schematics and we
inspected EACH input /output off the binding posts / large transformer.
21 in all 7 on each side and 7 on top. Larry asked me to identify each colored
wire attached. He discovered the wireing was all backwards and NOT
where they were supposed to be! Disaster in the making! We literally
rewired the hole power grid over my cell phone ! (1 HOUR), double and triple checked each
imput. The subs are back up and thumping hard. (they would be dead without AAI)
AMERICAN AMPLIFIER TECH. INC. IS THE MOST PROFESSIONAL, KIND HEARTED,PEOPLE,READY TO HELP ANY BGW OR AATI CLIENTS I HAVE EVER EVERDELT WITH IN MY (25) YEARS AS A PRO ROAD MUSICIAN!
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