Question about Whirlpool Refrigerators
REFRIGERATOR WON'T STAY COLD
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If it's the same as our GE fridge, there's a tube in the back of the fridge on the outside with an S shaped curve in it that may be plugged up with dust and/or dirt. Clean it out to let the water get through.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
A refrig cannot pull 40 amps in defrost , unless there is a direct short in the defrost system ( timer , heater , bimetal ) . I would use an extention cord ( for test purposes only ) , and try a different plug . Sounds like the circuit breaker is weak . In defrost , the MOST you should get , is 6 amps . This will not throw a 40 amp breaker . If you have an amp meter , remove the back refrig panel behind the refrig , and connect to one of the power cord lines (just not the green ground ) , turn into defrost and check the amps . This will tell you if short is in refrig , or weak breaker .
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Oct 27, 2009
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