I am try to install a new dimmer switch. When I removed the old switch it is at the end of the run and has one black wire, one white wire and a ground wire connected to it. The new dimmer comes with one black, one white, one red, one yellow and ground wires. The instructions show the yellow wire is for a remote 3way switch and is not used in this situation.
My question is how do I connect the rest of the wires. When I asked the store if this was the correct switch for my application I was told yes and to just keep switching the wires until I found the correct combination that worked!
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Re: End of Run Dimmer Switch Installation
The store doesn't know what they are talking about. And I can't believe they told you to just keep switching wires. Hitting the wrong wires is an easy way to short the dimmer switch out. Take it back and go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy the same type switch you took out.
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If you wish to replace the 3 way switch with a dimmer you have to buy a special 3 way dimmer. 3 way switches are for the top and bottom of a staircase or two ends of a hallway to have 2 switches control one light or lights, so if you buy a dimmer for one end it would be good to buy one for the other. I almost understand visually where all those wires go in your description but a photograph would have been better. A better description of which switch you wanted to replace as well.
The dimmer switch you select will depend on the type of bulbs you will be using. The 'original type ' of dimmer works with regular incandescent bulbs and halogen bulbs only. They cost around $15.00. Then there are dimmers for compact florescent (cfl) bulbs and LED lights that are dimmable, as well for regular light bulbs. These types of dimmers are more expensive, ranging in price form around $40.00 upwards. Light Switches Dimmers
If you are replacing a single pole switch ( just one switch that operates lights) you'll need a single pole dimmer. If you are replacing a 3-way switch ( two switches that operate the same light) you'll need a 3-way dimmer.
Installing the dimmer is pretty straight forward. All dimmers come with installation instructions. Make sure you turn off the circuit breaker for the particular switch you are replacing.
It depends. Some dimmers are considered "smart dimmers," where the control on the other end of the 3-way has to be intelligent enough to send a signal back to the dimmer. If the Lightolier dimmer was a smart dimmer, then chances are that the 3-way control was designed to talk only to that specific dimmer. The Leviton product you replaced it with is a simple, basic dimmer - it should work in conjunction with a simple, basic 3-way switch.
If the 3-way control already IS a simple, basic 3-way switch - then I would simply re-check the wiring of the dimmer you replaced.
If this installation was working before, the Maestro has a small
pull-out circuit breaker that lets you reset the device. This is called
the FASS Front Accessible Service Switch, located at bottom of dimmer
where it meets cover plate. Open sample Lutron Maestro dimmer manual to see FASS illustration http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/0301106A.pdf
If this is new installation, then double-check your wiring and check
that load matches dimmer capacity: 600 watt incandescent or halogen,
which apparently excludes CFLs. Some electronic devices have
shortened lifespan on circuits that are not clean. Use circuit analyzer
on nearby outlet that is on same breaker to see if line has interference.
3) Lutron has customer service numbers: 1.888.LUTRON1 (588.7661) 1-800-523-9466
Add a comment for more free help. Also take advantage of fixya phone service. For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on dimmer or any do-it-yourself project. Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.
If your dimmer was working correctly in the past, and suddenly started doing this, then your dimmer is probably gone bad.
If this is a new installation, the wiring could be wrong, or the dimmer could be wrong. For example you purchased the companion or accessory dimmer rather than the main dimmer. Or the wiring is put on the wrong screw.
If this is a new installation, add a comment and fill in the information and I can troubleshoot.
What is the model number of your dimmer.
For example the Maestro MIR600. Are you replacing a single-pole switch or a 3-way switch? Are you using 2 dimmers in a 3-way application? What color are the screws on your dimmer? What color are your wires and which screw do they go to?
The most likely candidate is the white wire. In a standard residential installation, the white wire is often the neutral connection - and wiring the dimmer hot to neutral will cause exactly what you described.
However, often times the white wire is instead a traveller wire being run to the switch from the fixture (which, it sounds like that's what you were assuming) - in which case, the other likely candidate would be having a loose power connection coming in contact with ground. Sometimes this can be a loose screw or, as you describe, a loose wire.
Your best choice would be to install a standard 50-cent light switch first. If you connect it together and it works - then you know a connection came loose and made a bad contact - so then you can try using another dimmer. If you connect it and the breaker trips - then you know you're using the wrong wires/connections.
It could be how you have it wired. 2 way switches can be tricky. One of switches will have a wire run to the chandelier and this is where your dimmer should go. Here's a link to a explanation of 2 way wiring. Hopefully this will help. If you want to check to see if it is the bulbs, you could put in non energy efficient bulbs although I think it's another problem. If it was the bulbs, the dimmer would at least turn on the energy efficient bulbs in the low position. Good luck!
Some dimmers are specific to which end of the 3-way system they are installed on "Power" or "Switch Leg". The way you can test which side is the power and switch leg is to test the wire on the "Black" screw of the switch (common) to ground with the lights OFF. If you have power on the "common" screw with the lights OFF it's the power end, if you have no power on the "common" screw with the lights OFF it's the switch leg end. Verify that you have the dimmer on the side specified in the instructions (switch leg). Sounds to me like you have it on the "Power End" so you are dimming on of the travelers instead of the light. That is why it is dimmed in one position and not in the other. (See page N-23)
take a look at the old switch that you have taken out, just connected the new one as the old. with the ground to the switch box.
Since the new one is not marked, you can connect the black on either side of the switch.