I am try to install a new dimmer switch. When I removed the old switch it is at the end of the run and has one black wire, one white wire and a ground wire connected to it. The new dimmer comes with one black, one white, one red, one yellow and ground wires. The instructions show the yellow wire is for a remote 3way switch and is not used in this situation.
My question is how do I connect the rest of the wires. When I asked the store if this was the correct switch for my application I was told yes and to just keep switching the wires until I found the correct combination that worked!
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Re: End of Run Dimmer Switch Installation
The store doesn't know what they are talking about. And I can't believe they told you to just keep switching wires. Hitting the wrong wires is an easy way to short the dimmer switch out. Take it back and go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy the same type switch you took out.
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It depends. Some dimmers are considered "smart dimmers," where the control on the other end of the 3-way has to be intelligent enough to send a signal back to the dimmer. If the Lightolier dimmer was a smart dimmer, then chances are that the 3-way control was designed to talk only to that specific dimmer. The Leviton product you replaced it with is a simple, basic dimmer - it should work in conjunction with a simple, basic 3-way switch.
If the 3-way control already IS a simple, basic 3-way switch - then I would simply re-check the wiring of the dimmer you replaced.
The Leviton IP106 Illumatech dimmer switch must be installed at the switch location where the hot feed exists. From your description your hot feed is at the regular 3-way switch location. Swap locations.
If your dimmer was working correctly in the past, and suddenly started doing this, then your dimmer is probably gone bad.
If this is a new installation, the wiring could be wrong, or the dimmer could be wrong. For example you purchased the companion or accessory dimmer rather than the main dimmer. Or the wiring is put on the wrong screw.
If this is a new installation, add a comment and fill in the information and I can troubleshoot.
What is the model number of your dimmer.
For example the Maestro MIR600. Are you replacing a single-pole switch or a 3-way switch? Are you using 2 dimmers in a 3-way application? What color are the screws on your dimmer? What color are your wires and which screw do they go to?
There is no universal convention on the color coding of wires for three-way switches, other than green always being ground. Fortunately if you wire it wrong you won't hurt anything, it just won't work right. Two wires are "travelers", they run between one three-way switch and the other. The "travelers" were attached to opposite sides of one end of your old switch. From your description, one is red and one is black. (These two wires are interchangeable, except that in one position both toggles up or both down would ON. In the other position one toggle up and the other down would be ON.) The "third wire" was attached to the other end of the old switch and is black. If you can't tell by just looking at it which lead of the new switch is alone at one end of the new switch (and is therefore mate for the "third wire"), you can just try the combinations. Assuming you still know which black wire is your "third wire" there will only be 3 combos.
It could be how you have it wired. 2 way switches can be tricky. One of switches will have a wire run to the chandelier and this is where your dimmer should go. Here's a link to a explanation of 2 way wiring. Hopefully this will help. If you want to check to see if it is the bulbs, you could put in non energy efficient bulbs although I think it's another problem. If it was the bulbs, the dimmer would at least turn on the energy efficient bulbs in the low position. Good luck!
If equipped with an air bag, disable the system as outlined in
of this repair guide.
If not done already, disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the steering wheel, as outlined earlier in this section.
Remove the shaft lock cover.
Remove the shaft lock retaining ring using a suitable lock plate
compressor tool to press down the shaft lock. Dispose of the ring.
Remove the shaft lock.
Remove the turn signal canceling cam assembly.
Remove the upper bearing spring.
Remove the thrust washer.
Move the turn signal lever up, into the "right turn" position.
Remove the multi-function lever.
Remove the turn signal switch arm retaining screw.
Remove the turn signal switch screws and let the switch hang freely.
Remove the key from the lock cylinder set.
Remove the buzzer switch assembly.
Reinsert the key in the lock cylinder.
Turn the key to the LOCK position.
Remove the lock retaining screw and remove the lock cylinder.
If equipped with cruise control, remove the housing cover end
cap, unplug the cruise control connector and gently pull through the
shroud, bowl, and steering column housing assembly.
Remove the washer head screw, the hex nut and dimmer switch.
Remove the mounting stud and ignition switch.
If equipped with cruise control, gently pull the connector
through the steering column housing assembly, bowl and shroud and
connect the plug.
Install the housing cover end cap and screw and tighten to 17 inch lbs. (1.9 Nm).
Install the ignition switch and mounting stud and tighten the
stud to 35 inch lbs. (4.0 Nm). Adjust the ignition switch by moving the
switch slider to the extreme left position and then move the slider 1
detent to the right (off lock).
See Figure 1
Fig. Fig. 1: Ignition switch adjustment procedure
Install the dimmer switch hex nut, screw, and tighten to 35 inch lbs. (4.0 Nm). Adjust the dimmer switch.
To adjust the dimmer switch, depress the switch slightly to allow insertion of a
in. drill bit into the hole above the actuator rod. Force the switch upward then tighten the screw.
See Figure 2
Fig. Fig. 2: Dimmer switch adjustment procedure
Install the switch using the original screws. Use of screws that
are too long could prevent the column from collapsing on impact.
Install the lock cylinder and retaining screws and tighten to 40 inch lbs. (4.5 Nm).
Turn the key to the RUN position.
Install the buzzer switch assembly.
Install the turn signal switch and retaining screws and tighten to 31 inch lbs. (3.5 Nm).
Install the wire protector shield.
Install the turn signal switch arm and retaining screw and tighten to 29 inch lbs. (2.3 Nm).
Install the hazard knob assembly.
Install the multi-function lever.
Install the thrust washer and upper bearing spring.
Lubricate with synthetic grease and install the turn signal canceling cam assembly.
Install the shaft lock.
Install a new shaft lock retaining ring. Align it to the block
tooth on the shaft, using a lock plate compressor tool to press down
the shaft lock.
Install the shaft lock cover.
Install the steering wheel, as outlined earlier in this section.
Connect the negative battery cable. If equipped, enable the air bag system as outlined in
of this repair guide.
Some dimmers are specific to which end of the 3-way system they are installed on "Power" or "Switch Leg". The way you can test which side is the power and switch leg is to test the wire on the "Black" screw of the switch (common) to ground with the lights OFF. If you have power on the "common" screw with the lights OFF it's the power end, if you have no power on the "common" screw with the lights OFF it's the switch leg end. Verify that you have the dimmer on the side specified in the instructions (switch leg). Sounds to me like you have it on the "Power End" so you are dimming on of the travelers instead of the light. That is why it is dimmed in one position and not in the other. (See page N-23)
take a look at the old switch that you have taken out, just connected the new one as the old. with the ground to the switch box.
Since the new one is not marked, you can connect the black on either side of the switch.