Question about Garden
My chainsaw starts but will not pick up revs
Before you remove or try to adjust your low and high speed jets you should always count the number of turns it takes to lightly seat the idle mixture screw and high speed needle adjusting screws.
Be sure to write the number of turns down on a piece of paper so you will know how many turns from the seated position to open the jets when you go to reinstall them, or if you remove them for cleaning or replacement.
If you have aready tried to adjust them then the adjustments below should get it running for you for final adjustment when warm.
Normally you will adjust your idle jet to 1/2-3/4 turn open from the bottom seated position.
Then you will re-adjust the low speed of the engine when the engine is warm by turning the idle screw in or out till the engine runs smoothly at idle speed, around 1200 RPM.
The high speed jet is adjusted to 1 1/2- 1 3/4 open from the bottom seated position, after the engine is warm.
Then re-adjusted by turning the High Speed jet adjustment screw in or out till the motor runs smoothly at high speed.
Alway use the "lightly seated" method if you have not changed the screw settings.
And a little help on rebuilding the carb below.
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Also be sure to check and clean your spark arrestor in the exaust,if you have one installed on your engine.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture...too much oil as it can cause hard starting and excessive smoking.
If the chainsaw/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indention in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Apr 20, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: poulan chainsaw wild thing
Remove the spark plug and squirt a little bit of the fuel from the gas tank into the spark plug hole, replace the spark plug and crank it over several times.
If it runs, or tries to run... that tells you that your engine, ignition system and gasoline are good (or atleast good enough to get it started)
Next check your fuel line and the primer ball. Make sure that when you pump the primer ball that you can see it pumping fuel through the fuel lines in ONE direction only. (It's kind of hard to see, you might have to start the test with empty fuel lines).
If that fails, you need a carb kit because that's where the check valves are. (unless your primer ball is cracked, broken, or clogged)
Next check the metering diafram and needle in the carb. If the diafram is hard (not easily flexible) or if the needle valve is stuck shut the engine will not be able to get the fuel that it needs to run.
If the Needle valve is stuck, just clean it and it'll most likely be fine.
If the diaphram is hardened, you need a carb kit.
If all the above is ok and it still doesn't work... check the gasket at the base of the carb to make sure that the posative pressure pulses from the crankcase are able to make it through the little holes into the carb (that's how it pumps fuel into the carb).
That's pretty much all the easy stuff. Keep in mind that a new carb only costs about $28 at most places.
Posted on May 07, 2009
The hand guard is secured on the left side with the top l/h starter cover screw part no. 503203419, the right side is held to the brake actuating arm with a 4mm screw part no. 503202512.
Let me know if you need other parts.
Posted on Jun 06, 2011
Download the Operators Manual from the link below:
Hope this helps.Thanks!
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Posted on Jan 08, 2012
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