Question about Refrigerators
Tried turning it off and back on again hoping it would reset, no good. Freezer and fridge cabinets are not cooling.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
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Posted on Jan 07, 2011
SOURCE: Error code F20 on RF610A
F20 means that there is a problem with the defrost system. The temperature sensor and the element comprised in the defrost system must be tested. Testing is done removing the firewall panel (usually in the freezer compartment in F&P) and accessing the parts. Parts are tested reading impedance with a multimeter. The test will determine if element is open or if the temperature sensor is open at room temperature to find out if any of the two parts must be replaced. Voltage to element must also be tested.
Try performing a manual defrost. Remove all food and disconnect the fridge overnight. If the problem does not come back, then the fault was probably a temporary malfunction. If the defrost system is faulty the problem may come back after a couple of days, when the defrost system restart malfunctioning. In that case ring the F&P number listed on the owners manual to call a technician.
Posted on May 09, 2011
My fridge is 11 years old and recently had the same problem; the freezer was
cooling well, but the fridge compartment was not cooling enough. I searched the
Web a read most answers. I thought the fan was faulty, but in fact it wasn't
(the fridge has got 2 fans, one for each compartment, and they look very
similar, the part number on mine was 883340). The whole problem was a build-up
of ice in the condenser unit that is at the back of the freezer compartment.
What happens is that the ice blocks the passage of air the fan for the fridge
compartment. This of course stops the cool air circulating to the fridge
compartment. I was able to repair the fridge an it is now working perfectly.
This is what I did:
1) Removed everything from the fridge, food, shelves, the lot.
2) I made sure the fan for the fridge compartment was okay, by connecting it to a 9V battery; the fan was okay. (I did this because after reading the posts I was convinced the problem was a dead fan, but you can skip this step if you can hear the fan spinning and think it is okay). To check the fan, remove by pulling the toll plastic cover that fits below the smaller plastic cover with the temperature indicator. This cover is very flexible and flimsy, start pulling from near the bottom and continue along the right side, flexing it as you go along, until it comes free (there is an insulating plastic foam moulding underneath that comes with it). As soon as you remove this cover, you will see the small fan and the plugs. Unplug the fan's connector (it has a small lock you need to press) and wire it to a standard 9 volt battery. CAUTION: observe polarity! The battery positive terminal MUST be connected to the RED wire (or the fan burns!). If the fan is bad, you can remove it very easily by inserting 2 finger inside the white plastic holder, pushing the fan in (the fan is held with 3 very elastic thin silicon bands, that do not break) ,hooking the holder from the inside edge with your fingers and pulling. It will just come out through the slot. (I did this, but then had some problem in getting it back in place. I finally left it in a near flat position, but not quite as flat as it was. Nevertheless it works okay).
3) My fan was good (I wasted a lot of time doing this), so next I shifted my attention to the freezer compartment. I then noticed that the plastic cover at the bottom of the compartment was half dislodged from its proper location, all covered on ice. I removed the cover, breaking the ice that held it with care. This cover is difficult to remove, there is a lot of pushing and pulling, so be prepared and patient; do not break it (mine came out with a small locking leg broken, but it did go back in place without any problems). I then checked the second fan, that is on this cover; it was also okay.
4) As soon as I removed the cover I saw the problem...ice everywhere! I reached for the house hair drier and after about one hour it was all gone. Note that most of the problem ice is behind the condenser (small radiator looking aluminum frame, that should be left alone. Do not move, push or twist it).
5) once all the ice was removed, I the carefully pushed the radiator back in place at the bottom of the compartment (it just fits and had been displaced by the growth of ice), and replaced the plastic cover.
6) and voila! my fridge was again working perfectly. About 3 hours flat.
Posted on Mar 01, 2012
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