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There is a screw on outside of drum on our maytag dryer that seems to have loosened. It is close to where the belt rides on drum. That screw is hitting the outspanel of dryer when turned on. I want to just tighten screw. I am worried what that screw is for although.
Can any one answer what the screw is for and if OK to tighten so that it does not hit outside panel?
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And you can't find that first screw that undoes the whole thing? I am not familiar with this unit, but have found that most dryers magically open the same way. If you open the dryer door and look around where the dryer door seats, you "may" find 2 screws that hold the top down. Take those screws out and the top will lift up and then you need to look inside the front panel to find a couple of other screws which hold the whole can of worms together. Be aware, once you loosen the front panel, the drum rides on that panel so you need to support the drum when you remove that panel.
Hope this helps
This advice explains how to replace the heating element on Whirlpool Duet, Kenmore Elite and Maytag Epic dryers.
1. UNPLUG the dryer before servicing. Dangerous voltage is still present inside the dryer even when it is turned off.
2. Open the door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You will not be able to remove the air blower cover with the lint screen in place.
3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the door. The panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: Propping the front feet of the dryer up can provide you better access to the screws (a 2x4 works well for this).
4. Disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (usually yellow wires with a white plug to the right of the blower assembly) and any ground wires that may be connected to the front panel.
5. Remove the air blower cover by locating and removing the mounting screws. NOTE: This is a good time to clean the blower fan housing, squirrel cage motor and dryer interior cabinet.
6. Remove the top panel of the dryer by locating and removing the screws holding the panel in place in the rear of the dryer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then come off.
7. Locate the two screws that hold the operator console in place. There should be one on each side under the top panel. Remove the screws and carefully lift the panel straight up. NOTE: You do not need to disconnect the ribbon cables. Carefully lay the console across the top of the dryer out of the way.
8. Disconnect the door switch connector plug and remove the dryer front panel by locating the four screws that hold it in place. Loosen the two screws along the bottom of the panel and leave in place. Remove the top two screws and lift up and turn the whole front panel slightly counter-clockwise to release the drum supports from the dryer drum. NOTE: Make sure the dryer door is closed when removing the front panel to avoid damaging the door hinges.
9. Remove the dryer drum. Reach in behind the air blower with both hands and pull the idler pulley to the right with your right hand to release the tension and remove the dryer belt from the drive motor. With the belt still looped around the drum, you can use it like a handle to lift the entire drum up and out of the dryer.
10. With the drum removed, the heating components can easily be accessed. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat is located on the outside of the heater box on the left hand side. The TCO is located at the back of the dryer, while the Hi-Limit Thermostat is located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
11. The entire heating assembly is removed by disconnecting all the components leads, followed by loosening the heater box mounting screw. With everything disconnected, the entire box and components will come free and lift out of the dryer. NOTE: Make sure you properly label all wiring to ensure they are reinstalled correctly.
12. There are a couple of mounting screws on the side of the heater box that holds the heating element in place. With the screws removed, the heating element will slide out of the box. NOTE: Make sure you take any resistance readings with the component disconnected from
the circuit to ensure accuracy. The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat
will read something close to 0 ohms if GOOD. The Heating Element should read 9 to 13 ohms.
13. Insert new heating element into the heater box and align the screw holes. Replace any other defective components and reinstall heater box.
14. Reinstall dryer drum ensuring the back rim of the drum rests on the rear dryer drum supports. Make sure the belt is looped on to the drum with the ribbed side towards the drum.
15. Reinstall the dryer belt by releasing the belt tension pulley as listed above, then, with your left hand loop the belt over the drive motor pulley. Release the idler pulley making sure the belt rests on the drive motor pulley. You should feel the belt tighten with tension. If you need further clarification on how to properly route the dryer belt you can go to repairclinic.com and click on the "Repair Help" link at the top of the page. On the following page, locate the "Dryer Belt Diagrams" link under the Special Features section. Refer to diagram K. 16. Reinstall the front panel by turning it slightly counter-clockwise and aligning the front drum supports under the front of the drum. Once the supports are under the drum, turn the front panel clockwise and lift up, placing it on the bottom two screws. Reinstall and tighten the top two screws.
17. Reinstall the door switch connector plug and reinstall the operator console. Use caution not to put too much stress on the ribbon cables.
18. Reinstall dryer top panel.
19. Reinstall air blower cover and reconnect the auto dry sensor and ground wire.
20. Reinstall toe panel by inserting the top portion first and pushing up. Push lower portion of the panel in place and reinstall screws.
I know this may seem like a lot, but its actually fairly simple if you follow the steps provided. Read through everything before attempting any repairs. If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
first step unplug the dryer.then pop the top of the dryer open by pulling it towards you and up,sometimes you have to pry it open with a flathead screw driver then remove the front of the dryer by removing the two quarter inch screws on the inside top of the front. then unplug the door switch it will be two wires attached to it.then pick up on the fron and remove.next remove the drumand place the new belt around the drum and install.then you will have to put the belt rubber side inwards on the motor pulley and the outside(non rubber)part of the belt needs to ride on the tensioner pully (little plastic wheel)spin drum clockwise to make sure tou have it alighned properly if it pops off try again untill you get it rite.Then reassemble and test.
Access to the outside of the drum requires the removal of the front then the top panel. Disconnect power to the dryer prior to servicing to avoid the risk of electric shock.
Open the door and remove the four screws located vertically along the inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to the front shroud assembly.
Once the four screws are removed, grasp and press in on the upper edges of the front panel posts then twist it inward to release the clips holding it to the cabinet. Tilt the top of the front panel and move it away from the dryer.
The top panel is held on each side of the cabinet by two hold down brackets. Locate and remove the 5/16" hex-head screws holding each bracket then swing the bracket to the outside and unhook it from the slot in the top panel lip.
Open the door then lift the front of the top panel and tilt it toward the rear of the dryer.
Rotate the drum until the screw holes appear at the top of the drum and screw the baffles back into position.
Reinstall the top panel and the front panel by following the removal steps in reverse order.
Note: This guide is for Maytag Sloped-Front Dryers.
lift the hood by pushing in clip on either side. remove two screw at top inside to remove front. unplug first. thats as far as we go there. remove belt out of dryer. take new belt and put on drum groove side down, get it uniform around drum. putting belt on pulley might be easier to do from behind for you. two screws to remove small access panel.take belt under pulley and over and around motor pulley. turn drum slowiy to make sure belt is not twisted. this belt can only go on a couple ways and one is obviously wrong. good luck.
If you want to remove the drum of your maytag wahser follow this procedure:
Disconnect the power supply to the Maytag dryer by unplugging it from the wall outlet.
Use a screwdriver to remove the three screws located at the top of the control console.
Pull
the control console forward to release the tabs that hold it to the
Maytag dryer top. Maneuver the control panel out of your way without
disconnecting any wires.
Use
a putty knife inserted between the top and front panel to disengage the
retaining clips that secure the top panel of the Maytag dryer. Lift the
top panel up, and remove it from the dryer.
Use
needle nose pliers to remove the wires from the door switch terminals.
The door switch is located just inside the front right corner. Grasp
the wire leads with the pliers and pull them off the terminals.
Use
a screwdriver to remove the retaining screws that hold the front and
side panels together on the Maytag dryer. Lift the front panel up and
out of the work area.
Use
a screwdriver to remove the Maytag dryer drum light lens screw. Press
the locking tabs on the light socket, and remove it from the cavity of
the drum.
Use a socket wrench to remove the four retaining bolts that secure the drum bulkhead to the sides of the Maytag dryer.
Reach
your hand beside the drum and the motor, and push the idler pulley
forward to release tension on the belt. Make notes of how the belt is
routed on the pulleys, and then remove the belt from the motor pulley
and idler pulley.
Grab the belt with one hand, and the Maytag dryer drum with the other. Pull the drum out of the front of the dryer.
Remove the top and front of the machine. (Look for up to two screws them pop the top.) Remove the drum (be careful of the belt) Reattach the paddle - it should be self evident once you have the drum out. You might need to add a screw of two. While it is apart, Id be changing the belt.
I had this problem and the cause was a loose screw holding on one of the "paddles" inside the drum. I removed the door, front panel, lifted the top, manually rotated the drum until I saw the screw head which had worked loose and was slapping the side of the dryer. A quick tighten of the screw and the noise was gone.
type 1:older models by Maytag with lintscreen under door
unplug dryer
remove 2 screws from under front panel
tilt front panel up from the bottom and unclip top
remove door switch wires
set front panel aside
remove front drum retainer 2 screws each side
type 2:newer models by whirlpool lint screen in top cover
unplug dryer
remove lint screen
remove 2 screws under lint screen
with putty knife or other blunt blade unclip spring clips at front corners of top panel
tilt front panel up
remove 1 screw each side of front panel 1/2 way from top
remopve door switch wires
tilt front panel down and unclip
set front panel aside
all
withdraw drum forward
examine drum rollers for wear if worn or locked replace in pairs
examine felts and nylon glides(if fitted) for wear if worn replace
examin case floor for tensioner (sometimes broken belt ends pull the tensioner out of place its easy to see the slots on the case floor for the 2 feet and spring, looks like a power socket)
loop new belt around drum at wear mark of old belt
insert drum
loop belt around motor pulley
pull tensioner to end of travel against spring
loop belt around tensioner
relax tensioner
rotate drum by hand to make sure belt wont jump off
First, UNPLUG YOUR DRYER! Now open the dryer door and remove the 2 screws at the door hinges... remove the door and set aside, then remove the 2 screws opposite the hinges. Grasp the front panel near the top, just below the top panel and pull it toward you... do this on both sides. Tilt the panel forward then lift it off of the lower clips.
With the front panel gone, you'll see a 5/16" screw just below the top panel on both sides, top left and right. Remove these and the clips too... now you can lift the top panel like the hood of your car.
To gain further access, remove the 6 (3 on each side) screws holding the front drum support/blower vent panel, then set this aside.
If you want to remove the drum... first, take a flashlight and look closely at how the belt is routed around the idler pulley and the motor shaft. (You'll have to re-route it for reassembly.) Reach in there with both hands, with one hand rotate the spring loaded idler pulley back to release tension off the belt, then with the other hand remove the belt from the motor shaft. Now lift and pull the drum out the front of the cabinet.
Check to make sure the rollers in the back rotate freely. You can remove the rollers, buff the roller shafts with emery cloth, lube the shaft with light oil (like sewing machine oil) and reinstall the rollers. Lube the idler pulley also. Rotate the motor by hand and listen for the squeak you described.
Also check the front drum support panel you removed earlier. The drum rides on this as it rotates... As you are looking at the drum support from the drum side, inspect the 10 o'clock to the 2 o'clock area closely. If the glides (teflon) are worn it'll squeak when it rotates.
Hope this helps. Oh yeah! Almost forgot.... the belt won't squeak at all. It'll be the motor, rollers or drum glides.
thank you that worked
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