Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
Need to buy another one, Just don't know if I need a gas or electric. My stove is gas heat and I have to plug it in an outlet. Washer had to be plugged in also.
I've never heard of a gas washing machine, so I'd say it's electric.
Posted on Jun 02, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Deb, as long as the ignitor is glowing, it's probably your coils on the valve. Look at number 13 and 14 on the attachment. Part number for the booster coil is 306106 and 306105 for the secondary coil. Not a hard job, the coils slide right off after removing a screw and then replace the harness. Catriver...post back.
Posted on Oct 15, 2006
SOURCE: washer won't drain or spin.
Kenmore top loader blues
Use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding down the control panel,then swing it upwards.
Pop the s clips in the rear and remove the lid switch disconnect.
Tip the case forward and remove it.You will now be able to repair the
The lid must be closed for spin. The lid has a striker in it that
pushes against the lidswitch arm. This switch allows for spin IF the
lid is closed. The switch may have failed. Mechanically the striker may
be broken or the actuator arm may be broken.
here is a broken lid switch
You can test the switch. If you have a meter. If not you can
simply bypass this switch. In my left hand here is the lid switch male
plug which I have removed from the lid switch harness. If I wanted to i
could simply place a jumper between the 2 outside wires and the washer
Do not leave it bypassed if you have small children or braindead brother in laws.
A 3 piece drive coupling
NOTE: newer models have the screw hidden
Here is a view of the washer with the case removed.
To get to the broken coupling
remove the pump first then
the motor,both are held
together with quick clips. pictured here is a broken drive coupling.
Line up the new part and replace
the motor, pump, and
case in reverse order. NOTE: This looks hard but if you take your time it is easy enough to save you big bucks! My friend RM made a 44 second movie on this subject. Click here to see it
Posted on Dec 23, 2008
LID SWITCH *** is probably bad. these units only look for that lid switch circuit to be closed at the end of the wash cycle and end of the rinse cycle, prior to spin/pump out. its a safety switch so the unit shuts off when you open the top.
you can go to several sites and find parts blow ups so you can find how to access that switch thats below the top.. hint: the top, front, and both sides come off as a unit to gain access to the components below, leaving the chassis sitting upon the floor.
best of luck,
Posted on Oct 24, 2009
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