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What type of washer is this? Gas or Electric? Mod#110.26912691, serial # CJ 2125579

Need to buy another one, Just don't know if I need a gas or electric. My stove is gas heat and I have to plug it in an outlet. Washer had to be plugged in also.

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Hi Carolyn,
I've never heard of a gas washing machine, so I'd say it's electric.

Posted on Jun 02, 2013

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Maytag LSG7806A stackable washer/dryer - dryer not working

Deb, as long as the ignitor is glowing, it's probably your coils on the valve. Look at number 13 and 14 on the attachment. Part number for the booster coil is 306106 and 306105 for the secondary coil. Not a hard job, the coils slide right off after removing a screw and then replace the harness. back.

Posted on Oct 15, 2006

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SOURCE: does the Maytag LSE7806ACE require a 220 plug?

P-You are going to need 220, Catriver

Posted on Dec 19, 2007

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SOURCE: washer won't drain or spin.

Kenmore top loader blues direct%20drive%20cabinet%20removal.jpg Use a screwdriver to remove the screws holding down the control panel,then swing it upwards. Pop the s clips in the rear and remove the lid switch disconnect. Tip the case forward and remove it.You will now be able to repair the washer! The lid must be closed for spin. The lid has a striker in it that pushes against the lidswitch arm. This switch allows for spin IF the lid is closed. The switch may have failed. Mechanically the striker may be broken or the actuator arm may be broken. ls2.jpg here is a broken lid switch You can test the switch. If you have a meter. If not you can simply bypass this switch. In my left hand here is the lid switch male plug which I have removed from the lid switch harness. If I wanted to i could simply place a jumper between the 2 outside wires and the washer would spin. a%20lid-switch-unplug.jpg Do not leave it bypassed if you have small children or braindead brother in laws. a%20coupling.jpg A 3 piece drive coupling

hidden%20screw%20on%20dd%20washer.jpg NOTE: newer models have the screw hidden
dd%20washer1.jpg Here is a view of the washer with the case removed.
To get to the broken coupling
remove the pump first then
the motor,both are held
together with quick clips. a%20broken%20coupling.jpg pictured here is a broken drive coupling.
Line up the new part and replace
the motor, pump, and
case in reverse order. NOTE: This looks hard but if you take your time it is easy enough to save you big bucks! My friend RM made a 44 second movie on this subject. Click here to see it

Posted on Dec 23, 2008

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore stacked washer wont drain

you have to remove the front and take the water pump off and get all that clogged up stuff out of it-mike

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

  • 127 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool washer, Serial #CL1510429, mOD

3949247 - LID SWITCH *** is probably bad. these units only look for that lid switch circuit to be closed at the end of the wash cycle and end of the rinse cycle, prior to spin/pump out. its a safety switch so the unit shuts off when you open the top.
you can go to several sites and find parts blow ups so you can find how to access that switch thats below the top.. hint: the top, front, and both sides come off as a unit to gain access to the components below, leaving the chassis sitting upon the floor.
best of luck,

Posted on Oct 24, 2009

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Clock,timer.& oven don't work. No electric on top panel All burners are fine

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

It sounds like the hi-limit safety thermostat may be tripped, the scenario you described is exactly how this would manifest

"clock,timer.& oven don't work. No electric on top panel All burners are fine"
...that is the component that typically trips/activates during a self clean on many ranges. You shouldn't need to open the front control panel, but access is through the back. (this can also occur during power surges)

You'll need to slide the range/oven outfrom the cabinet. If you slide the unit away from the wall and unplug it you can check the hi-limit.

It will either be a non-reset type hi-limit or push to reset. If non-reset it needs to be replaced, if push to reset type, simply pushing in the red button will get you back up and cooking in no time.

**Unplug the range from the wall first of first**

Once you remove the panel you will need to look for a switch/thermostat which looks like either of these...




The replacement if necessary are available at "" or "" to name a couple.

Let me know how you make out. Good luck. I'll watch for your reply and if you need anything further I'll be glad to help in any manner I can.


Macmarkus :)

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I would like to know the electrical requirements.( voltage and amperage) Does it plug in or is it hard wired? If the power goes out is the hot water also out? thankyou

Are you asking about tankless gas or tankless electric?

You posted under Tankless gas water heater: gas type tankless plugs into standard 120Volt household outlet to power circuit board. You need larger gas line than used for tank-type gas water heater.

If you are asking about volt and amp draw of Tankless electric, then that depends on specific model number.
For example, if each tankless element draws 3500Watts, and unit has 3 elements, you will need 3 additional 20 amp 240Volt circuit breakers. Volts x amps = watts. 3500 watts divided by 240Volts = 14.58 amps. At full blast, this unit would draw 43.75 amps and will cost more to operate yearly than tank-type electric water heater. If unit has 4500 watts elements, then it will draw 56 amps at full blast, and use a good percentage of household power.

Tankless water heaters have no hot water in power outage. This is true for gas and electric models.

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