Question about Pyle 1800-Watt 2-Channel Bridgeable MOSFET Amplifier Car Audio Amplifier

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I have my amps live wire connected to the positive side of the battery, but theres no live feed at the other side of the wire and the battery and fuse is fine. what could it be?

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You might try to replaceing the wire it might be broke through the line somewhere it happened to me once before to.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009


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Powerlocks stopped working including the back window button will not release.the fuse is good.what else could be wrong?

One of the simplest things you can do is to test if you have a live current on either side of the window button.
You can also try to 'hot-wire' the motor to the window lock from a known live point somewhere nearby.
If the lock functions, you know it's a broken wire or loose connection & you can either trace through the wiring or rewire it, by-passing all the existing wiring.
If the lock doesn't function with a live feed, then the wiring's OK & it's the lock itself that's failed.
Check the feed at the switch & at the motor first as they're easiest & cheapest to do.
best of luck.

Mar 10, 2018 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Mg metro alternator

Only needs two wires, run a 40 amp cable from the large terminal on the alternator marked +, direct to the positive terminal on the battery or to the battery supply feed to the starter (which ever is easier). Then run a wire from the terminal marked 'ind' to a 5watt bulb, other side of the bulb needs to be wired to an ignition live feed. That's makes it the charge indication light. You need to fit this light, without it the alternator will not charge!!!! Light will come on when you switch the ignition on, and go out when the engine is started. Put a volt meter across the battery, should get a reading of 13.5 to 14.5 volts with engine running. Good Luck.

Dec 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to wire ammeter guage in 88 GMC

main ignition feed to the ignition switch + live , well the other one thats live with ignition on cut cable and run the two ends to amp meter ,this will show discharges but to show charge as well then on the positive battery terminal will be a big thick heavy cable to the starter motor and a smaller feed wire which feeds the vehicle its this one you want as this will show charge as well ,disconnect the wire and loop through amp meter with some thickish cable not lighting circuit wire

Jul 31, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a GULF CAR THAT I AM TRYING TO WIRE FOR LIGHTS head lights brake lights @ tail lights

Ok that's a pretty easy one.. What you need to do is make a wiring harness first.. you require TWO wires for each light... ONE of these wires will be a "Common" IF you have a METAL chassis, then you may use this as the "Other" Wire, the negative, or Earth. All wires are going back to the Battery... Or a connection block nearby... wire all lights, etc, from the POSITIVE of the battery, to the Switch, from the switch to the light.. and then back via the "Common" to NEGATIVE, terminal or Earth.
Simply do each as an individual circuit... use good quality 10 - 20 Amp suitable stranded wire, RED & BLACK, RED for Positive, BLACK, for Negative. use Bulb holders, 20 Amp switches.
Have a FUSE or a Circuit Breaker in EACH circuit wire.. OK, so we wire From Plus on the battery, (Usually we have a multi-terminal insulated connector mounted where we terminate each positive wire, to feed out to each circuit) it then goes from the Positive, to the Fuse/CB, from, the other side of the Fuse/CB, on to the say, a Switch, Terminal, & then, from the other Terminal of the Normally OPEN switch, to one side of the Bulb (Holder) the "Other" side of the Bulb, goes back to the negative or Earth. ALL Earths go together, and are Common. ONLY the Positive or RED is LIVE.
We always switch the Live wire. Brake lights are usually wired in series. Remember one can obtain Dual Filament bulbs, for Indicator and brake lights.
Simply duplicate this for each circuit, and then we tape them all together in a "Harness" and route the harness where-ever is suitable for it to go.
Usually we run a heavy wire from the Plus battery terminal, to our multiway connector for our Positive "Outlet". to connect to the individual circuits.
Draw out a circuit FIRST for EACH light and any switch, and then follow the diagram.

Jun 14, 2011 | Siren ,for Car,gulf Cart,rv 905

1 Answer

Wipers not parking... they stay in the vertical position on the windshield when I turn the wiper switch off. This happened after I had replaced a dead battery. Any ideas? Thanks, Brian

There is a separate live wire to park the wipers, you may have dislodged it when you replaced the battery. This wire should be live, even though the wipers are switched off and it connects slightly apart from the normal feeds.

Apr 01, 2011 | Saturn L300 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Rs125x aircooled 2t single engine fitted in another frame, with ignition on the engine starts and runs fine, when clicked to second position,,,ign plus lights,,,,all works well including brake lamp, But...

I would say the ignition switch wiring is incorrect. The first possition should feed horn, brake light and ignition and position two will run the lights. So find the wire that feeds the horn and brakes then remove it from position two and connect it to position one leaving the lights on position two.
Hope that helps..

Mar 02, 2011 | Yamaha DT 125 X Motorcycles

2 Answers

My 90 Buick Riviera also has the fan that won't shut off, was wanting to know how to put the toggle switch on and where to put it. I am now disconnecting the battery each time I stop.

Just cut either the positive or negative feed to motor. Connect 1 side of the wire to a 2 terminal on/off toggle switch & the other side to the the other side of a toggle switch. You can extend wires from both end & mount under dash if you like.

Oct 08, 2010 | 1990 Buick Riviera

1 Answer

I just finished rebuilding my truck engine and will like to test it before installing back in the truck. I know how to get the starter going, but I don't know how to wire the coil, distributor, alternator...

To start the engine you need a+ feed from the battery to the + side of the coil[this acts as an ignition live,to be disconnected when not testing the engine ]Next you need a heavy + feed directly from the starter to the battery[use good heavy cable]Also a good heavy earth lead from the battery negative to the engine block[jump leads work great]Connect the distributor contact breaker wire to the coil - side.To start take a live+ wire from the starter + to the "pull in" terminal of the starter[this is a male spade connector and the lightest terminal on the solenoid.when you connect the starter to the battery + the engine should turn over,Check for a spark using an old plug earthed to the block,add some fuel and listen to that baby run.

Mar 08, 2010 | Ford F-100 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I recntly had a 1500 wat amp connected to my battery it somehow killed my battery and now i have a new 1 when im driving the light comes on as it did when my amp was connected my amp is not connected now...

yep you have a short somewhere withthe positive side of the battery disconnect the positive side of the battery feeding the amp before you burn it down to the ground.

Jul 22, 2009 | 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer

1 Answer

Fitting a towbar for a caravan with 13pin europlug

black socket, black 7 core wire
pin 1 yellow left indicator
pin 2 blue, rear fog light
pin 3 white earth
pin 4 green right indicator
pin 5 brown right side/tail light
pin 6 red brake lights
pin 7 black left side/tail light

Grey socket grey 7 core wiring
pin 1 yellow, reverse
pin 2 blue, supplementary feed (ignition)
pin 3 white, earth
pin 4 green live feed (battery +)
pin 5 brown not connected
pin 6 red supplementary feed (ignition)
Pin 7 black earth

On the discovery there is a purpose made plug behind the panel on the drivers side rear, behind the rear lamp
i think the relay you have bought is for lamp failure you just need a normal 4 pin 30 amp relay.
Good luck Davelee

Mar 19, 2009 | 1997 Land Rover Discovery

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