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a mechanic knows the difference between cranking/turning over and starting
you say that the flywheel is not turning so obviously it will not start
now you have to tell us if the starter pinion is engaging in the flywheel teeth but the starter is not cranking the engine --indicates that the engine is seized up
now it it is an automatic , there is a possibility that the flex plate ( automatics do not have flywheels )) is broken and the teeth are no longer in a position to mesh with the pinion gear
Sounds like the engine is seized.
Try removing enough bits so you can access the flywheel and see if you can turn it. Make sure ignition is OFF.
If the flywheel does not turn it will be time for a learning experience, a trip to the maintenance shop, or a replacement.
You probably need to replace the starter recoil. This is not a very expensive fix. Just be aware that this problem is usually caused by having to pull the starter rope excessively because of some other starting problem. Once you replace the recoil, keep your engine running properly.
Try pulling the rope slowly until the starter engages the flywheel (you should feel when it engages) then give a good pull to start the engine. Don't give the rope a quick hard pull in one motion. You will probably need to do this three or four times before the engine starts. Of course push the primer button the number of times called for in your engine instructions before trying to start the engine. If you still don't think the starter is engaging the flywheel if would take it back where you bought it if it's new.
remove the sparkplug and try to turn the flywheel if it turns freely then the engine is most likely ok. if it does not turn you have a locked engine that means its toast. If it does turn then you have to look closely at th pull recoil that it is engaging the flywheel.
Well, the easiest solution is to pull the starter and bench test it. Likely areas for your issue is the starter drive, and flywheel teeth. You need to inspect the teeth of the flywheel.
one quick test would be to manually turn the engine to another location and fresh teeth on the flywheel, and try starting again. Engines tend to stop at some spots, and that can cause unusual wear on teeth in one small location.
Sometimes rebuilt starter do not get all new parts, but only what is failing, so it is possible to get a malfunctioning starter drive. Starter drive failure usually turns the engine over briefly, then the starter disengauges....
Can you hear the "dogs" engaging in the flywheel when you initially pull on the cord?
If you remove the recoil assembly from the engine then will the rope pull out?
Is something preventing the blade from spinning underneath?
Can you turn the engine over manually by turning the flywheel?
If you remove the spark plug will it turn over?
One of these should help determine the problem. Good luck!
The starter is located on the firewall side of the engine block,
adjacent to the flywheel or torque converter housing. Early models, use a
direct drive type starter, while the later models use a gear reduction
starter. Otherwise, the two units are similar in operation and service.
Both starters are 4-pole, series wound, DC units to which an outboard
solenoid is mounted. When the ignition switch is turned to the start
position, the solenoid armature is drawn in, engaging the starter pinion
with the flywheel. When the starter pinion and flywheel are fully
engaged, the solenoid armature closes the main contacts for the starter,
causing the starter to crank the engine. When the engine starts, the
increased speed of the flywheel causes the gear to overrun the starter
clutch and rotor. The gear continues in full mesh until the ignition is
switched from the start to the on position, interrupting the starter
current. The shift lever spring then returns the gear to its neutral
Begin the starter removal by first disconnecting the wires leading