your NG3 should have been preprogrammed for the type of batteries you are charging. The NG3 has the 3 wires from the power cord. Here is what I have done:
Brown from charger goes to black wire
Blue goes to white wire
yellow green goes to green ground.
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Check ebay for one or use any dc power supply with an output voltage of about 23-25 volts to do the deed. Divide the MA output of charger into the MA rating of the batteries and that gives you a pretty good idea of how long to charge the battery, give or take one hour.
Usually this is indicative of a bad battery. First try a good battery in the tool to make sure it is OK. If the tool is OK, you need to try charging the good battery in the charger to see if the charger is working properly. If the charger is OK, replace the bad battery. Some batteries will show fully charged on the charger but will not supply the power to the tool.
there is a problem with the charger and given the age I would take it to an authorized dealer and get a replacement. If you give me your general area I will try and locate one close to you. Please before voting if you need more assistance let me know. Thank you
Any battery left in a charger is still hooked up to a circuit. Depending on the charger this can mean a slow discharge is possible. Ryobi's Maintenance Charge Mode means the charger will 'refresh' the battery at regular intervals, usually every 30 days. A battery's lifespan is determined by how many times it is discharged/recharged so to get 'the longest possible battery life' it is desirable to reduce the number of times a battery is recharged. One way is to use the battery until it is dead or near so another is to remove the battery from the charger when it's fully charged to reduce the number of times the charger refreshes the battery.
Porter Cable has not offered a replacement for their poorly designed 19.2V chargers. I had the same problem and happen to like my drill and circular saw. I found a universal charger called a model number CHUN-2420. Google it--I got mine for $27 plus shipping. All you need to do to make this work is splice 3 wires.
My charger is a PC model 8624, so the instructions might vary slightly between the chargers. Remove the six screws on the bottom of your PC charger. Remove the bottom section. Remove the screw(s) that attach the circuit card to the plastic housing. Disconnect the 3 pin white charging connector from the circuit card, and cutoff the connector. Discard the circuit card and power cord. Cut the 3 conductor (red/yellow/black) cable coming out of the Chun-2420 approximately 2' from the charger. Splice these three wires to the three wires in the charger housing that connect to your battery. In my situation, Red/Red, Yellow/Yellow, White/Black. To verify, red=positive, black/white=negative, yellow=temperature sensor. Wrap the red/yellow/black cable with electrical tape where it exits the PC charger through the power cord hole. Re-attach the bottom.
Dust getting in the charger is a problem, Try blowing it out with a moisture-free dust remover, found at most any store. Green flashing means improper power, due to dust or power from the outlet, try a differant wall outlet. Red flashing means the charger or battery is to hot and must cool down before it will charge. The charger will not charge a battery if the lights are flashing. Solid Red light means it is charging and solid green light means it is charged. Plug the charger in first before putting the battery on the charger. If the charger has been droped or hit the floor the coil inside could have broke loose and dammaged the charger requiring it to be replaced.