Question about Plumb Pak Waste & Overflow Pipe Kit, 1 1/2"

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Sherwood industrial dishwasher parts I need a waste pipe

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The part you need is a common part sold at most all hardware stores, lowes, home depot, or plumbing supply stores.

Posted on Apr 28, 2009

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Toilet backing up into yard


sounds to me like you have a major clog in the waste pipe leading to the town sewer. If you have access to the cleanout for this pipe you should snake out the line to clear the clog. If you cannot do this then Roto-Rooter can certainly help. You do not want waste water to keep entering your yard as Im sure you are aware of health issues involved. good luck

Mar 01, 2012 | Plumbing

Tip

Soldering with water in the line


When soldering copper supply or drain pipe, condensation or seeping can be your worst enemy. Solder will not flow completely around the pipe if moisture is present, causing a water or sewage leak, respectively.
An old tip or trick is to separate the two pipes being soldered and stuffing half a piece of "white" bread into each pipe making sure to completely seal the entire pipes inside diameter and pushing those bread pieces down inside those pieces of pipe at least the same distance as the pipes outside diameter.
The bread will hold back any seeps or absorb any condensation long enough for the two pieces of pipe to be rejoined and soldered.
The "white" bread will do one of two things.....either flow down the drainage pipe with the other waste or it will break apart in tiny little pieces and flow right through all your water fixtures, with no trace of ever being there.

Happy Soldering!

on Apr 25, 2010 | Plumbing

Tip

How to unclog a garbage disposal


Before you tackle this problem, you should understand how to use your disposer so you'll probably never have to deal with a clog again. You can easily use put a sinkfull of waste down your disposer without a hitch. It's all about controlling the amount of water mixed in with the waste. Your disposer is designed to break waste down to pieces a little smaller than a BB. This is efficient but without much water, the pieces will clump together right where the disposer connects to the drain line, and will cause a clog. Never turn on the disposer without a full flow of cold water. Cold water not only helps to cool the motor, but keeps any fat solidified so that it doesn't build up on the walls of the pipes. The full flow of water will allow the disposer to mix the waste in and it'll go right down the drain. The second thing you must control is the amount of waste that goes in the disposer. It's really a bad idea to put more than like half a cup of waste in the disposer without it running. Ideally you'd turn on the water first, then start the disposer, then feed the waste in. Listen to the disposer running with waste in it. It sounds different when the waste inside is gone. Use this to get yourself used to keeping up with its pace. The problem with any disposer is that they work so fast, they can grind the waste faster than the water can carry it away.

Whatever you do, don't use a chemical unclogging product. Over time, this can damage the metal components of the disposer, and if you have to call a plumber, they will charge you extra because these chemicals make their equipment wear prematurely and can burn the skin.

If water doesn't drain, make sure the problem isn't fixed by simply turning the disposal on. If the water just swirls around, you'll probably need a plunger. When you want to use a plunger to unclog your disposal, the easiest way is to use suction more than pressure. When you push down on the plunger, the pressure from it will cause the backed-up waste to compress even further and make it impossible to push water down. You want to push the plunger down so that it "leaks" water out, and, when the plunger can be pushed down no farther, make sure it then has a good seal on the disposal's opening, and yank the plunger up pretty hard. This will pull the backed up waste back, mixing it with the water and will probably unclog the unit in only a couple strokes. Be careful not to soak yourself when pulling up on the plunger. In a pinch, a full soda can will actually form a seal and can be used in place of a plunger for disposals that have a splash guard made of one piece. If water is backed up into the other sink bowl, that means the clog is in the trap and not in the disposer itself. One way to fix this is to make sure the other bowl(s) of the sink are firmly stopped up. If you use a stopper you'll most likely have to push down hard on the stopper while plunging the disposer to form a good seal. If none of this helps, you may need to take apart the sink trap. This can be done by loosening the two nuts on the part of the drain pipe assembly shaped like a "U". You then may be able to clean the clog directly out of the u-bend or you may need to snake the pipes. If you take the pipes apart, have a bucket under there to catch the large amount of that will gush out.

on Dec 07, 2009 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Cannot stop water coming out of the push up connection


Hi
There is a small "o" ring on the piece that connects to the 1"1/2" pipe unscrew it with a small pair of pliers and replace .
Parts are available at any home depot,lowes etc.

Dec 08, 2009 | T & S Brass T&S Brass: Pop Up Waste...

1 Answer

I purchased a 1 1/2" bathtub drain Lift & Turn. I'm having difficulty removing the drain flange. Do I turn it counter clockwise or clockwise to remove. The cross at the bottom of the flange was broken...


You must turn it counter clockwise.If there isn't any of the cross left you have two options you can take a small hack saw and cut 3 or 4 slits in the drain lip, being careful not to scratch the tub. Then pry the lip up very carfully with a small flat screw driver & pliers.You should be able to unscrew it now.Or if you have access to the waste and overflow, behind the front of the tub you can remove the overflow, (its the piping with the cover plate at the top of the tub) and move the waste shoe from side to side,to loosen the drain up. [thats the part the drain screws into] I would try my 1st solution.You would most likely have to replace the waste & overflow and maybe the trap with the 2nd. Good Luck.

Nov 29, 2009 | Jones Stephens Corporation Plumbing

1 Answer

Water leaks from the bottom of the bathtube onto the floor in the bathroom, the kitchen on the other side of the wall and onto the bedroom floor next to the bathroom. This all happens when someone takes a...


assuming it's not someone splashing, check that the waste outlet is not rotating & is tight
check the overflow outlet as above
remove bath side panel and check waste trap & waste pipe from it. check that all joints are firmly together - push joints, twist and push in - knurled nut joints tighten, these joints have a washer which may be cracked or not properly in place - two washers where it joins to a pipe
if it's this area then there will be water drips on the lowest parts
make sure all joints are clean before reassemble - petrolium jelly helps to lubricate the joints to refit

Aug 27, 2009 | Plumbing

2 Answers

Dish washer has a sulper smell when turned on.


Without seeing it and assuming the dishwasher is functioning properly, the drain hose from the dishwasher to the sink drain might have a kink in it from when the put in the new sink.
You should be able to visually look at this under your sink.
Good luck
Get back to me if you need more assistance
Kurt

Mar 19, 2009 | Plumb Pak Continuous Waste Center Outlet,...

2 Answers

My kicthen sink is pulg up;


A power cable (snake) You can rent them or try a cheap hand cable snake one first.. 

Mar 14, 2009 | Plumb Pak Waste & Overflow Pipe Kit, 1...

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