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Re: Whirpool Thin twin with noisy dryer?
You could have a wore out dryer belt wich could cause the drum to feel lose, Also you could try checking the glides underneath the front of the drum to make sure they did'nt slip out of position. This helps the drum turn with little or no friction.
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The problem is usually not the bearings at all but the felt guides on the front of the drum. The felt wears off and then makes lots of noise. You can access this part by removing the front along with the door. Listen close with the button in and door open to see if the noise is coming from the front or rear.
Dryers have a tension or idler pulley that keeps tension on the main drive belt. When it's worn, it can be noisy. When that happens, don't lubricate it. Just replace it.
Many dryers use nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn, they can be noisy. When that happens, replace them.
Rear drum bearing
Some dryers support the clothes drum in the rear with a center spindle instead of rollers. The spindle may be a ball-and-socket type support or a shaft through a sleeve. When the components are worn, they may squeak, squeal, or rub. You can't repair them. Just replace them when they're worn.
Your dryer's blower wheel pulls air over the heat source, through the clothes drum, and past the thermostats, then pushes it out the exhaust duct. The blower wheel, which is usually plastic, may wear out over time. But if it's noisy, it may simply be clogged with lint. Clean the blower and test to see if the dryer is still noisy. If it is, you probably need to replace it.
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Make sure you have 220 volts first at dryer. Heating element is on back of dryer. You'll need a test meter to see what's wrong unless you can see broken wire in element itself. Thanks, please leave feedback or contact me again for more info if you need it.
I believe the selector knob on a Whirpool just has to be turned counter-clockwise with the selector pushed in. It will spin off the shaft and then the outer indicator dial will pull off. The shaft also has a keyed slot that will only allow the dial to be removed and installed one way, so there should be no question as to how it goes back on.
Was there a reason as to why you are removing the washer selector knob? If this is a simple matter of replacing a broken water temperature selector, you shouldn't have to remove any of the control knobs to gain access to the selector. The entire front panel comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. That way you can access the broken selector from behind the front panel much easier. Just remove the panel right above the washer top (under the dryer) and it should expose the front panel mounting screws. Remove these screws and the front panel comes off. Just make sure the unit is unplugged before you begin. I hope this helps you. Let me know if you need further assistance.