I had a furnace guy here twice. Each time he replaced parts, each time the furnace stopped working shortly after he left. The blower motor starts, but the furnace won't fire. A friend tried calling Bryant, but they wouldn't say anything until they had the model number. Ihave searched hi and low on the unit, and no number. Suggestions? Parts replaced: Inducer motor, inducer control board, main control board, pilot and flame sensor.
Try checking the pressure sensing switch,it has a tube that should run somewhere close to the inducer fan.sometimes this hose fills with liquids,and makes the units act funny.I don't know if you have a condensing unit or what.the furnace wont try to light if it cant tell the inducer motor is running.any induced draft unit will work this way.you can also do a temp. bypass of the pressure switch to make sure the contacts on it are closing just be sure your inducer fan is running,and you cant leave it like that its just a test.that is a safety feature you really need.
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A 13 code means the furnace cycled on limit more than three times consecutively and is in a lockout for 3 hours. A 14 is ignition lockout. An ignitor does not intermittently quit working. I'm the service mgr at our shop, and I know that particular furnace model has a service bulletin out on bad secondary heat exchangers. If your lucky the filter is dirty, or the furnace condensate trap or drain is clogged. Most likely the secondary heat exchanger is plugged up and isn't allowing the pressure switch to make. Or the furnace is overheating due to it not being able to properly vent hot gas. Which would explain the high limit lockouts. Call an authorized carrier dealer so you can take advantage of the free heat exchangers and the $300 labor credit. You can also call an authorized Bryant dealer to perform the work for you. Only an authorized dealer can rectify this problem because the Bryant corp requires testing and paperwork in order to get your free parts and labor credit. Good luck.
If burners go on then off right away. it's your flame sensor you can remove it and try sanding it down with some stool and reinstalling it. if a furnace runs for a while then goes off. you could possibly a be having in air flow problem check filter or blower motor or high limit switch. 20 years experience in this field
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. First thing to do is go to the furnace and look in the small peep hole in the lower blower door and see if there is an led light that is flashing a certain number of blinks record the number and look for a diagnostic chart on the inside of the blower door or the upper side panel of the furnace if there is no flash code present you can try resetting the power to the furnace and see if the furnace will fire up.
Your t-stat should be set up so that the furnace is the second stage heat and also emergency heat. First stage (heat Pump comes on) sometimes they use Time to start 2nd stage, sometimes they use outdoor temp and this all bepends how bryant has set it up, without a model # I cannot tell you but send it and i will look in somebooks i have to tell you.
Should reset by shutting off power to furnace and then back on
With a Bryant if you turn power off and then on, if the thermostat
is calling for heat when power is restored blower will run for couple
minutes before trying to fire furnace. This is normal
'Limit or flame rollout switch is open'. In my case, the flame rollout switch had tripped due to an overheating? I had to push the button between the wire leads to reset the switch. Then when I turned the power back on, the furnace started up like normal.
Why did the switch overheat and trip? My current theory is that there was a rubber grommet around a pipe near the switch that had slid down and was no longer sealing the furnace?