Question about Mamiya C330 F Professional TLR Film Camera

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Mamiya C330 arm winder stuck

I bought this camera second-hand. It's in good condition but the arm which winds the film won't move. I have tried changing various settings around such as the L lock as well as ensuring the lens knob is set to Lock. Any suggestions welcome.

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

spotatohead
  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: Mamiya RZ 67 lens is stuck on body

This is likely because the shutter has not been cocked all the way. Return the lens to the fully locked position and advance the film with the lever all the way down to reset the shutter. If it still doesn't work, move the lever to M for multiple exposure, make sure the back is aligned and trip the shutter release. Then fully **** the shutter again by pressing the advance lever down fully and again until it is reset. Then try to remove the lens again.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

mail541
  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: Mamiya RZ 67 lens is stuck on body

Solutions here....
http://www.apug.org/forums/forum51/16253-mamiya-rb67-lens-stuck.html

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

ttriolo
  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: My Mamiya RB67 triggers and shutter lease lever

This is not the best solution as it indicates a faulty film back. The film should advance without resorting to activating the film-wind release lever. That is only for intentionally advancing a partially exposed roll of film. Make sure the multi-exposure lever is not engaged and that the counter does advance and the red mark disappears as you advance to an unexposed frame.

Posted on Nov 14, 2009

  • 102366 Answers

SOURCE: I bought a second hand Mamiya 645 Af but as soon

From the manual:
"If the error display is not canceled when the shutter release button is pressed again, insert the Dark slide, half-press the shutter release button while pressing the roll film holder's manual film advance button to wind up the film, then contact your nearest Mamiya agent or service center."

If you need a manual, you can download one from
http://butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_645af/mamiya_645af.htm

Posted on Aug 04, 2011

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1 Answer

Film-advance warning won't go away on a RB67 Pro SD 120 film back?


Mamiya RB67 Pro SD that is new to me. loaded the film correctly took the first shot. But, the film won't advance. What am I doing wrong?

Feb 18, 2012 | Mamiya RB67 Pro SD Medium Format Camera

Tip

Stuck Film Advance in Manual or Auto Wind 35mm Cameras


I've been seeing a great number of posts from people requesting help with a stuck film advance feature on their 35mm film cameras (you remember "film", right?) Normally, there are just a couple of things you can try to fix this issue before you'll need to find a professional to repair your camera - if it's even worth it. On that note, a lot of people still have film cameras for nostalgia purposes but there are still some hold outs that enjoy film. Finding a repair shop for an older camera isn't impossible but they are getting scarcer. Google "FILM CAMERA REPAIR" and see what pops up in your area!

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS:

There's a complex number of actions that must work properly in order for you to advance the film in your camera using the manual advance lever. Gears, shafts, bearings and springs come into play and like a clock, they need to mesh together or the advance mechanism comes to a screeching halt. Well, you'll be the only one screeching, most likely but you get the point. If any of those parts break or become unaligned, or if some foreign matter like dust or dirt gets into them, the same thing happens. However, there are sometimes a few things you can try that might prevent you from sending in your camera for professional repair. I caution you about opening your camera yourself unless it has no real value to you because the interior of a 35mm SLR camera is pretty complex, even more so that a clock. Chances are you'll do more bad than good. With that said, try these options:

Film Jammed - Won't Advance
Sometimes the film will jam in the canister, or in rare instances, isn't actually as long as it's supposed to be and can reach the end of the roll before the camera indicates it has. If you suspect this has occurred then push the film release button and try to wind the film back into the canister before opening the camera. If you don't care if the film gets exposed feel free to do this in the light. It's much easier!
At times the film may also pull lose from the canister and roll completely on the take-up reel. If this happens you'll need to take the camera into a completely dark room with the light-proof film container, remove the film manually from your camera, roll the film up and put it into the light-proof container, close it tight and then seal it with electrical or duct tape. Also let the lab know this has happened so they don't pop up the container and expose your film thinking it is still in the canister.

Advance Lever Stuck
If the actual film advance lever is stuck and won't move, about the only option you have is to open the back of the camera and be sure nothing has jammed in the gears or sprockets of the take up reel or film path. If that doesn't fix the problem try pressing the film release button, wind the rewind lever a bit and see if the advance lever engages again.

If the lever just flips back and forth with no tension at all then something inside has broken and your chances of repairing it yourself are almost none. Most film cameras are getting on in years and will just naturally begin to break down over time. There may be no option to even fix your camera unless you find a similar model for parts and send that along to the repair shop. Make sure you get the parts camera back as you may need it later! If you like tinkering and the camera isn't one you'd miss if you couldn't fix it, then you could always give it a shot yourself. You can pick up a set of jeweler's screwdrivers and pliers from the web or Radio Shack for under $20 and find old film cameras on EBay or Craigslist at a decent price. Just be sure they don't have the same problem as your current camera does!

Grinding Noise When Advancing Film
This is most often caused either by a broken part, metal shavings or dirt/debris in the winding mechanism. Again, if you feel comfortable doing it yourself and it's not an expensive collector's model, you can try to repair it yourself. Hunt down a PDF service manual for your camera on the using Google web (a lot of collectors share them) and it should show you how to remove the cover to see the winding mechanism area. Look for debris in the gears and springs and remove it with short blasts of canned air but be sure you hold the camera so any debris falls out and not further into the camera. You can also use Q-tips dipped in alcohol to remove any debris, but don't use water, and let the area dry completely. Once you've done this, you'll need to apply a light lubricant to the area but only if it was lubricated before you cleaned. Use thin white lithium grease or an oil or grease used by clock repair shops and apply it with a toothpick as you don't need much. DON'T USE WD-40! It will do more damage than help.

MANUAL ADVANCE CAMERAS WITH MOTORDRIVE ATTACHMENTS:

These are manual wind cameras like the Minolta X-700 or Nikon FM2 that have an attachable motor drive that winds the film for you. Pretty much the same suggestions previously noted can be tried with a couple of exceptions:
Check the batteries and contacts in the winder making sure they're clean and not bent or broken. You can clean battery contacts with a CLEAN pencil eraser or alcohol and a Q-tip. Blow any dust and debris out of the compartment afterwards.If you still experience problems remove the winder and be sure the coupling that locks into the bottom of the camera to wind the film is not jammed or damaged. With batteries in the winder and the power turned on, look for a series of contacts on the top of the winder that mate with your camera. Be sure these aren't dirty or broken as well. Using a paper clip, you should be able to short one or more of them to another to activate the winder to make sure it works properly.

When All Else Fails - A Bigger Hammer
If none of the previous suggestions work and if, ONLY if you don't value the camera for collector's value a firm tap might work as a last ditch effort. I once had an old Minolta SRT that locked up solid. I didn't want to bother with trying to open it up as I only used it for a shelf display so I took the lens off, used a wad of very clean, soft foam to hold the mirror steady and wacked it twice on the counter. Not enough to damage the camera body (or the counter!) but a good smack. Whatever was jammed came loose and the advanced began to work. As I said, I only use it for display so I don't know if it affected the shutter speeds, etc. but it worked and cost me nothing but time.

AUTO/POWER ADVANCE CAMERAS:

Newer "old" 35mm film cameras used a power winder motor to advance the film and **** the shutter. If you experience a jammed advance on these cameras, check the film path, sprockets and make sure they are clear and move freely, as I described previously. Try the film release button and see if that will release the drive as well. Another option that has worked at times is to remove the film, lens and all batteries from the camera (including any date/time battery) for at least a day or two to see if the camera will reset itself. This worked for me once with a Nikon N70.
As a last ditch effort, the table smack might work as well, but I make no promises and it's all your fault if you damage the camera beyond repair... or your furniture!

on Jan 06, 2015 | Photography

1 Answer

Hello. I just got a Mamiya C330, looks really nice but I note that the little release botton in front of the camera is inside I can;t take it out. my question is this could affect to take picture or I...


This button you speak of is an alternate way of depressing the shutter it is also a way in which you can use a shutter release cord to take pictures. the button itself is not meant to come out of the camera. Once you load your film or 2 empty film spools (to test to see if the camera is working properly) into the camera and wind the film crank then you will be able to depress that button and fire the shutter.

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c330f_prof/mamiya_c330f_prof.htm

Aug 10, 2011 | Mamiya C330 F Professional TLR Film Camera

1 Answer

I bought a second hand Mamiya 645 Af but as soon as I load a film it shows a error message ERR 01 .... what is that ?


From the manual:
"If the error display is not canceled when the shutter release button is pressed again, insert the Dark slide, half-press the shutter release button while pressing the roll film holder's manual film advance button to wind up the film, then contact your nearest Mamiya agent or service center."

If you need a manual, you can download one from
http://butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_645af/mamiya_645af.htm

Aug 04, 2011 | Mamiya 645AF Medium Format Camera

1 Answer

I seem unable to open the film back to my Mamiya C330 TLR! How do you do this? Also the trigger button is permanently in. Why is this?


Face the camera away from you so that you are looking at the film back there should be a circular button at the top center just below the view screen look at that, on it should be a little red dot this dot should be facing straight up it it is not then turn the dial so that it is. then you should look just above that and you'll notice an arrow pointing to the right that is the direction in which you need to push the dial so that the film door opens. It should pop open, if not then you need to push the dial to the right and at the same time gently pull out. this should do the trick.

And please get yourself a manual for this camera!! happy shooting.

Aug 03, 2011 | Mamiya C330 F Professional TLR Film Camera

1 Answer

My 645 1000s shutter buttons wont pop back up.this is my 1st mamiya


You might want to check and make sure the battery is still good. If you purchased the camera used and didn't change the battery then this might be the case.

But in the mean time this is what you need to do:
1st-make sure that the shutter speed dial is set to any shutter speed other than the red circle w/red ring. If your camera is set to that it will drain your battery when not in use since it is designed to be an automatic setting. I set mine to 1/125th to do this push in the circular dial on the side and at the same time turn the knob.

2nd- locate the 2 levers on the opposite side of the shutter speed dial. Once you found them then position the back lever all the way forward towards the setting for "MULTI" and position the lever towards the front straight up.

3rd- then wind the film crank till it won't wind anymore and depress the shutter, if it is wound and the shutter release is still stuck then skip to the fourth step, if something happened and you heard a click then still proceed to the next step because no the shutter release will be temporarily stuck.

4th-Once both of these levers are in this position there should be a red button just behind the shutter release button on the top right side of the camera.... drum roll please...."Push the red button" what you should hear is a rather loud click, this click is the mirror releasing allowing you to: 1 wind the film crank and take another picture and 2 this also now allows you to see through the lens again (assuming that you have a lens on the camera).

In Conclusion: without a battery that is fully functional in the camera this is how the camera will operate once you get a battery for your camera then reposition the levers on the side of the camera opposite of what I suggested (this will be the normal operating mode for the camera with a battery) then when you wind the film crank and depress the shutter everything will function normally.

Jul 12, 2011 | Mamiya Photography

1 Answer

My Mamiya C330 Pro only gives me 4 photos per roll


A few things to consider:
-Loading: Make sure you are not over loading the film before you start to shoot. I have sometimes turned the film advance too many times and end up cutting down on the amount of usable film.
-Are you loading the film in a dark area and careful to close up the back just after it has started to load to avoid exposing it?
-Shooting: Are you metering properly when shooting? Obviously underexposed images won't develop. You should consider a hand held meter.
-Shooting: Are you advancing the film more than it needs to be after you take your shot? Watch the film counter and feel for that click as it hits the next frame. I have advanced past the next shot many times by accident.
Hope that helps, Matt

Apr 05, 2011 | Mamiya C330 F Professional TLR Film Camera

2 Answers

My Mamiya RB67 triggers and shutter lease lever works but film advance lever doesn't move. Trigger button fired several times but film advance still showing 1.


This is not the best solution as it indicates a faulty film back. The film should advance without resorting to activating the film-wind release lever. That is only for intentionally advancing a partially exposed roll of film. Make sure the multi-exposure lever is not engaged and that the counter does advance and the red mark disappears as you advance to an unexposed frame.

Nov 09, 2009 | Mamiya RB67 Pro SD Medium Format Camera

1 Answer

Film winder is loose and meter is not accurate.


It is absolutely OK, my dad too has one (not older than urs). make it tighter, but u need some screws drivers (specially for cameras). Open the camera and tighten the screw holding the winder arm. Try this only if u have experience otherwise u may end up with a scramble of camera. About the F-Stop, i have no idea why this is so... might be the technology is gone too advanced compared to the 1978.

Aug 14, 2008 | Nikon FE 35mm SLR Camera

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