Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Posted on Aug 18, 2008
I can tell you exaclty whats wrong . and it sounds like multipart problems. you have an old RUUD heat pump and its reversing vavle is stuck. without that valve opening it will contantly try to run in refrigerant mode to make heat. and here its 26 degrees, het pumps are only made to be effiient in over 34 degrees and that why your electric heaters in the blower section in an in a closit of unit
continously running up you eectric bill big time. cuses for the reversing valve to stick are sitting along time when it was low on refrigernt. or ust plain shut depending on its age. that cicking is the relay trying to open or close the reversing valve swict to make pressure again. any local guy an fix that one. theyre are kits called hard start kits that they hook up to them that shoot an extra zap of jiuse in it to try to free it up if its not totally lockd up being though that you still hear the relays pulling in and out thats good you may have just caught it in time.
now here is a quick test and possible cure but only if you what your doing turn both units off take off the top cover of the old rudd and get a small hammer not a sledgehammer and rap and tap all around the reversing valve. it will be a cylindrical tube black usually have sets of copper or brass tubings going in the 2 sides of this so dont hit itthat hard it gets dents it and is ruined. look for oil spots which uually means the refrigerant leaked out , and its seized up for good. they try spinning around the big out door fan door fan some. you may have to rock it back and forth Till it braks lose but dont put super human efort int it,
than put it all bak together making sure you connected wires back up right. go in and have you wife eithe watch it or you do it and switch the breker on and off about 8 times to trying to get the cnnectors switches to stay in and if your brave take a well insulated screw driver and hold them in for 2-4 miuntes to force it to work. if that doesnt do it call your local repairman and tell him you need a hard startkit only much safer, the cost about 40$ but you labor will be high if he is sent alone so may you can help im out and lessen your bill if the valve cant be made to work again. you may want start looking for prices with that model and serial number and d shut that electric heater off some one to replace it . I hope I helped you out some no charge ( I dont have my Pay Pal acct. set up yet ) good luck tom.
Posted on Jan 12, 2009
unfamiliar with watt restrictors.
heat strips have 2 safety devices, a thermal overload, they get to hot they shut off, cause not enough air flow increase fan speed this device is auto reset. a fusible link a fail safe to thermal over load, no reset and sometimes replaceable. if this does not help would like to ask you a few questions. one of the buildings i take care of has 200 + reem/ ruuds all electric heat. if a part is defective replace, please do not by pass. safety frist.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
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