Question about Dell ST2410 Monitor
When the monitor is connected to a computer and initially turned on, it displays normal brightness for about 1 second, then the image dims to just barely visible. The brightness and contrast are set to maximum. Suspect the inverter. Advice?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Monitor goes blank
Sounds like the back light inverter board is bad. It's a very common problem. LCD's use four small cold compact fluorescent bulbs to back light the display. (thats what gives the LCD it's brightness allowing you to see it) The inverter board runs these lights and when they go bad they will typically show symptoms like you have or the monitor power light comes on and you have either no display or a very dim display. If you ever have one that has no display but the power light is on you can check by shining a flashlight directly into the LCD from the front (right into the screen) if you can see an image then it's either the inverter board (most likely) or the CCFL bulbs have gone bad. The inverter board and CCFL's are replaceable. Good Luck, El Duderino
Posted on Nov 16, 2006
SOURCE: MODEL DELL 1504 FP
I have one with no backlight. The capacitors on the board are bulging. In my opinion they were designed too close to tolerance and "cooked out". As long as it's still working change the ones in the Regulator circuit(3 in the middle of the heatsink area), and the four really small ones over by the transformers. Should be right as rain.
Posted on Oct 19, 2008
I haven't seen this particular monitor. It may have deeply recessed black screws, or possibly even Torx screws. Try a #2 Phillips and see if it engages firmly. If not, try a T-10. Once you get inside, you will need to remove the power supply and main board to get at the LCD panel. Locate the inverter circuit - it will have two Teflon insulated wires going to (usually) the bottom corners of the panel. It may be part of the power supply board. Every LCD display I've seen so far uses pink colored insulation on those wires. It is possible that the inverter has failed, but most of the time, it's the fluorescent tubes inside the back of the panel.
Getting at the tubes without breaking something is not a trivial task. You will most likely need a #00 Phillips screw to remove the shield metal. Observe anti-static precautions from the moment you open the monitor. Be patient, and keep track of every part or connection you remove. Do not remove the LCD driver circuitry (generally at the top) from the panel. The tube(s) are usually at bottom, enclosed in a sheet metal reflector held in place by the bottom section of the thin metal frame around the panel, just inside a flexible white plastic sheet that covers most of the back of the panel.
You can get new backlight fluorescent tubes from www.lcdparts.com. This website has links to some very helpful pages on repairing LCDs. Note: replacing the tubes involves some rather delicate work. If you are nervous, twitchy or clumsy with fine work, you'd be better off to hire out the job. Be very careful not to rip the rubber insulators on the ends of the tubes when you slide them down the insulated wires to expose the connections to the tubes. You have to attach the wires at just the right spot or you won't be able to fit the insulators back on and get the new tubes to go into the LCD frame - and you can't apply heat to the wires for more than 4 seconds at a time. I've done a number of them successfully, but have occasionally had to try several times to make the connection sufficiently small and short.
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
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