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Half of the heating element has continuity, is it a goner?

Half of the heating element has continuity. does it need to be replaced? or is it possibly something else that wont let the dryer heat up?

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The heating element is simply a single strand of resistive wire, so saying "half of it has continuity" makes no sense. If half of it only has continuity then that would mean this area in the middle you are calling half must be burned open and it would be bad. If you are accurately stating what you mean. I would set your meter you are using to do a voltage reading, check and see if you have your voltage at the 2 wires connecting to the heating element. If you have full voltage there and its not heating then your element needs to be replaced. If this dryer has a large plug going to the wall you will read roughly 240 volts AC, there. If it has a normal looking plug going to the wall (not likely) then you should be reading roughly 120 volts AC on those 2 wires connecting to the heating element. If it has a large plug going to the wall and you are only reading 120 volts or less on those 2 wires then your problem is somewhere else.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • Rusty Voils
    Rusty Voils Mar 28, 2014

    What if when you take the wires off of the element and test them they have 240volts across them but when you put them on to the element and test them they read 0 volts but 120volts from each leg to ground,but not 240 together when hooked up?

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Dryer won't come on. Wire block burned. Wires test good. Heating coil lookes burned


A good heating element should have continuity. When the heating element breaks, there is no continuity between the heater terminals. But sometimes, the broken ends of the heating element can make contact with the metal heater housing (from vibration) and draw a large current, causing the symptoms you have described.

To confirm a "short" between the heating element and the heater housing, check for continuity between the housing and each heater terminal. (The shorted part of the heating element is usually welded to the housing.) Occasionally, the short will not be welded, but a visual inspection will verify (welding scars and black soot) that a short has occurred, intermittantly.

Replace the terminal block, heater, damaged internal wiring, and possibly the thermal fuse, thermostats, and power cord.

Good luck

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Ge medallion 850 new elements and thermostats still not heating up


see this possible causes:
1) You must shure the heating element show continuity see the video>


2) Test for continuity the thermosta see the video how to do it

3)TEST THE thermal fuse, for open and replace.
4) Test any WIRES for loose, or broken or burn and repair.
5) If anything is o.k see the diagram. You must test the contact from the a) Timer for open, or dirty, or wires loose, broken or burn b) Test the selector temperatur for defective in order to get the heating element to work, and replace if necessary. God bless you

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Was there a burning smell before at the time when it heated up slowly?A burning smell suggests there was a (possibly continuous) spark at the splitted place.If it was split earlier then the slower warming up was possibly due to a continuous spark, because then there won't be much energy left for heating.It's like an added resistance.So it could've been there for a while already.
The element just needs to connect again where it splitted and should stay there, then it should work again.

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Gew9200lw1 whirlpool dryer turns on, spins but doesn't heat up


hello, this is Mike. If your dryer turns on, tumbles, but there's no heat, I would bet that your heating element is toast. If you can access the terminals to the heating element, you can test them for continuity using a simple inexpensive tester. No continuity means they need to be replaced. If you would like some assistance with how to go about this and possibly fix the problem yourself, feel free to contact me. I would be happy to help you. thanks

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1 Answer

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to check the element you need a continuity test this test insures there aren't any breaks in the heating element that you can't see. If there is continuity then you possible could have a hi limit switch (this looks like a small round button about the size of a dime, located in the housing holding your element) burnt out. If the element is burnt out there will be no continuity on the element. If there is continuity then take the hi lmit swithch out and replace it. Take the model and serial numbers to an appliance parts store for replacement. Good Luck

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1 Answer

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How old is the heater?

It may be something as simple as just needing to flush the tank to remove any sedemints....and hopefully so because this is the easiest/cheapest thing to do.

If this is not the case go ahead and remove the heating elements and check for wear. Replace them if necessary. I would also replace the thermostats that accompany each of the elements.


Checking and replacing both of this requires you to drain the tank completely and should be close to $25 total....last time I checked.

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1 Answer

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Make sure you have got it set to full heat and not half heat, you may have a faulty heat selector switch.

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1 Answer

Gas dryer


Welcome jessegonzales
Check the outside vent leaving your house does not have a screen on it.
Take the screen off. Even half blocked and the dryer will not dry well.



Possible solutions

1. Defective Heating Element

The heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, thent he heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case as described above. In this situation it is possible to have continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.
Let me know.
Please remember to leave a rating

2. Defective Heating ElementThe heat produced from heating elements is measured in watts and a normal heating element will produce about 4500 watts of heat. If the heat element is shorted to the case, this will cause the heating element to operate on 110v and use only about 1/2 of the element wire. In effect, the heat produced will be only about 1/4 of the amount that should be produced and the end result is an increased drying time.
The normal method for checking a heating element is to check it continuity. With the element unplugged you can check the continuity from one wire post to the next. If the circuit is open, then
the heating element is faulty.
However keep in mind that the element could be shorted to the case as described above. In this situation it is possible to have continuity, but the element still be the source of the problem.

3.Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode. It can prevent the element from heating at all. A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw. These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the problem.

4. Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.

One of these will solve the problem!
Thank You
Huuum.
Please remember to leave a rating

Jul 29, 2008 | Frigidaire FGQ332ES Gas Dryer

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