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It's a big job, but the results are great. Bi amp-ing is where the tweeters and mid range speakers are separated and connected to separate amplifiers. You'll need to have the correct gear before messing inside your speakers. You'll need to have another amplifier. Not knowing what amp you have now, getting a stereo signal into the second amp may be a problem since you'll need a line level signal into the second amp. An external crossover is best. Technically, you could use the ones in the speakers, since you'll be removing them anyway. Now for the speaker mods: On the panel where the posts for the speaker wires are you'll need to install another set of binding posts. We're assuming you have separate subs. Open the speakers and remove the cross over. The wires from the original posts should now connect to the mid range speaker. Add wires from the second set of posts and wire it to the tweeters. Now connect the output of the amp to the removed cross over and wire the mid range out on the cross over to the posts that connect to the mid range speaker. Do the same for the tweeters.If you have three way speakers, you'll have to run a 3rd set of wires from the crossover to the woofers in the cabinet using another set of binding posts. Controlling the volume on the second amp will be difficult since you'll have to adjust it manually. Remote control volume level will be lost on the second amp.
What you're looking for is called a "crossover". A crossover is an electronic filter for an audio or speaker circuit. In an audio circuit, a crossover is used to prevent or pass certain frequencies or a range of frequencies from passing through it. Since your sub will reproduce the bass or low frequencies, you don't want other speakers to reproduce them. A band pass filter on your door speakers will do this for you. A band pass filter passes only a range or "band" of frequencies and blocks those that are above and below the range or band of frequencies selected. Installing a band pass filter will prevent the very high & very low frequencies from getting to the door /dash speakers. Likewise, you should consider connecting a low pass filter to your subs, too. The low pass filters work a little differently from of the way band pass filters work - they only allow low frequencies to get to the sub - blocking all the other higher frequencies (your other speakers are better suited to reproduce those). Lastly, you would install a high pass filters on tweeters. Tweeters are designed to reproduce only the high frequencies - sending mid and low frequencies to them is wasting power and can cause damage to them.
You purchase the filters for specific crossover points (the block / unblocked point) as determined by the individual speakers. If a sub has a frequency response of 20Hz - 100Hz, a low pass filter of 100Hz would be ideal. Remaining filters would need to begin at 100Hz - assuming the mid-range speakers have a frequency response beginning at 100Hz. A band pass filter of 100Hz - 3KHz would fit the bill nicely if the mid-range speakers go up to 3Khz Match the high end of the band pass to the high end of the frequency response of the mid-range speakers. Next, a high pass filter at 3KHz would allow only the high frequencies to your tweeters. Basically, you want to have the entire audible range 20Hz - 20KHz covered by the speakers and have the crossover points that match the frequency response ranges of the speakers.
check the tweeter and mid range. its coil may become faulty.
for checking the speakers carefully remove the speakers one by one, remove its connections.
and check the speakers with a AAA cell. is it producingcracking sound. if not the speakers coils are burned.
you should be able to remove the passive in-line crossover, but since it is blocking everything below 3500 hz, there is no need. leaving the passive crossover in place will also help protect the tweeters if something fails in your setup as any amped frequency below 3500 can seriously damage them.