Heat pump cutting off and knocks out power to house.
I have an 2ton all in one heat pump, with heat strips. Unit installed in sept 08, to exact manufacture requirements, has an honeywell digital thermostat. This is so bizzare i cant figure it out, the unit is on 30amp, the heat stip is on 60amp, not connected to anything else. The unit will stop its cycle, and then every so often 2-3 of my house breakers loose power, but they don't trip, which cuts the power to some of my lights, and outlets. I have noticed that when this happens the unit will not come back on, and i have noticed a buzzing noise coming from where all power wires hook into. could this be a bad transfomer, or capacitor in the unit causing an overload? Please help, i'm stumpped on this.
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you cant use that thermostat for a heat strip,your thermostat only gives 9 volts to tell the heat pump to come on,a heat strip needs 220 volts to run,DO NOT PLAY WITH ELECTRIC HEATERS!!you do not know what you are doing and can burn your house down or hurt someone!!
If your thermostat has an emergency heat setting this means you have a heat pump system.
Yes you need to set the thermostat to heat for heating the house.
The emergency heat setting should never be used unless your outside unit is not functioning.
The emergency heat setting overides the heat pump (the outside unit will not be energized).
The emergency heat setting will run the auxillary heat (heat strips) only.
When the thermostat is set in the heat position the heat pump will run to heat your house.
If the heat pump can't keep up (extreme cold) then then the auxillary heat will kick in to augment the heat pump until it satisfies the thermostat settings. If your room temperature gets 2 degrees below your thermostat setpoint, your auxillary heat will kick on. Example, say you are going to be gone a couple of days and you turn your heat down to 60 degrees. When you return and it is 60 degrees in your house, you turn the thermostat up to 70 degrees. Since you are turning the temperature up 2 degrees or more (10 degrees in this case) from the 60 degree room temperature then the heat pump will come on and the auxillary heat strips. The unit will continue heating like this until the temperature in the house gets to 69 degrees and the heat strips will turn off and the heat pump will continue to run until the 70 degree setpoint is reached.
Hope this helps.
Hi, what you have here is a ductless heat-pump split system. In the heat mode the compressor will run on a heat pump as it uses a reversing valve to reverse the flow of freon to heat your house. If it gets cold enough, the stat will call for the emergency heat strips to energize to come on for back up. Now, if the unit does not come on or go off when the thermostat calls for either heat or cool to come on and it just does it whenever it wants to, the stat will have to be replaced with a new one. If you plan on doing this your self, I would get the exact same heat-pump stat as you have because they make so many different models that the wiring may be much different and you will be lost when you go to wire it up. The heat - pump has many more control wires on them then the conventional heat/ac unit. So make it easy on your self and get the same one. They are easy to replace. If it is ignoring the settings its the stat. Heat strips and compressor running in the heat position together are normal for a heat- pump. Sincerely, Shastalaker7
I believe the unit you are describing is a heat pump. Heat pump are great when the temperature isn't below 30 With low ambient temps. outside it is much more efficient and comfortable to run aux. electric heat from the heat pump.
Sounds like your heat pump may be undersized or is not defrosting frequently enough. But in answer to your question, they are not that difficult but if it was installed without strips, your power supply may not be enough. You will also have trouble purchasing them unless you can buy from a HVAC supplier. I would look into the heat pump function and the power supply. You may need to make some modifications before adding strips.
remove the intake manifold ,remove radiator ,remove radiator intake and outake housing, remove fan ,remove all belts: power steering, alternator and if you have a/c, remove harmonic balancer ,remove timing belt covers, remove timing belt remove intake housinng once you have remove all the above, your freaken engine will look naked, you can see the location of the knock sensor is locate in the engine valley
I would say this is around 75 amps of draw at max for both the compressor and heat units. . Therefore--at least 90 amp breaker, and probably 100 amps for good measure, and at least #4 or #2 wire to the unit.
Heat pumps in cold climates suffer a number of limitations stemming from the fact that they are designed for air-conditioning applications. As climates become cooler and heating becomes more of the primary HVAC function, one may find that conventional heat pumps lose capacity and do not satisfy the load of the conditioned space. In colder temperatures, a conventional system’s need to defrost can further detract from heating performance. The use of resistance heat or fossil fuels to supplement or replace the vapor cycle. The additional use of supplemental heat to temper cold air blowing into the space during defrosts. As it gets colder outside, the delivery air temperatures inside begin to fall when no supplemental heat is being used. Supply air temperatures that are warmer than the return temperatures add heat to a space, but discomfort occurs when these supply temperatures drop below skin temperature. The air movement can feel cool or even cold. While the heat pump may be operating exactly as intended,the consumer will desire a more comfortable environment.
the thermostat sub base has a place to connect a wire usually white to energize the heat strips when you push the stat way hotter than the house temp. that is why the strips come on in normal heat. it also has a terminal that is only energized in emergency heat and it also should have a wire connected to it so that terminal can supply power to the strips when the stat is switched into emerg heat . you can identify the terminal from the wiring diagram and if need be jumper w2 wire over to the aux terminal and it will work. they both go back into the airhandler and power the same strips. w2..................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips or w2...jumper to aux......................................................................................................................w2 in airhandler to strips.
FIRST YOUR OUTSIDE UNIT PROVIDES HEAT BY USING A REVERSING VALVE TO CHANGE THE REFRIGERANT FLOW.THERE IS NO HEAT STRIPS OUTSIDE SECOND YOUR EMERGENCY HEAT TURNS ON ELECTRIC ELEMENTS INSIDE YOUR AIRHANDLER UNIT.IT SOUNDS LIKE SOMEONE HAS WIRED YOUR UNIT WRONG OR HAS THE THERMOSTAT SET IMPROPERLY.WHEN THE HEAT PUMP CANNOT SATTISFY THE SETPOINT THE THERMOSTAT IS SUPPOSED TO TURN ON YOUR ELEC. HEAT UNTILL THE LOAD HAS BEEN REACHED AND THE HEAT PUMP CAN CONTINUE TO MAINTAIN IT.