Question about GE Zoneline AZ55H07D Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Compressor keeps humming in off position.

I did manage to get to heat strip and checked the thermistor(fuse) & thermal limit.both are ok. heat strip works ok out from case,is compressor contactor is same as overload protector.

Posted by on

  • pbp1230 Mar 13, 2009

    unit is about 10 year old. i took out white and black wires from compressor and checked with ohmeter.and it is not shorted or open,so it might be ok or not .still did not follow how to check contactor.

  • uncheel May 11, 2010

    how old is the unit?

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  • 478 Answers

No, the contactor is a power passing(@contacts) and a power consuming devise at th coil. you can simulate the coil bing energized by pressing in contacts.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009

  • mark milligan
    mark milligan Mar 13, 2009

    One of my techs just told me that the conractor is directly behind the control baord in the front panel.

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Whirlpool dryer wont heat


Hi Marlene Hatcher

Here are a few more things to check, you have checked some of these already:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me
Bud

Oct 17, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

Tip

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 2


TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following situations occur: Dryer does not heat Heat will not shut off
This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system:
Harness/connection, Heater relay, Thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, High limit thermostat, Gas burner assembly,
Centrifugal switch, Exhaust thermistor, Machine control electronics, Gas supply. Dryer does not heat:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the back panel to access the thermal components.
3. Perform TEST #4b. If the thermal fuse is OK, go to step 4.
4. Perform TEST #4c. If the thermal cut-off is OK, go to step 5.
5. Locate the high limit thermostat. Measure the continuity through it by connecting the meter probes on the
red wire and blue wire terminals. If there is an open circuit, replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff.
Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. Perform TEST #4d. If this is OK, replace the machine control electronics.
Heat will not shut off:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the connector. If 5–15 k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics. If the resistance is greater than 20 k ohms, replace the exhaust thermistor.
TEST #4a Exhaust Thermistor
The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. If wire connections are OK, check exhaust thermistor resistance per step 5.
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C)
in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows:
TEMP
SETTING HEAT TURNS
OFF* HEAT TURNS
ON High 155° ± 5°F
(68°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Medium 140° ± 5°F
(60°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Low 125° ± 5°F
(52°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Extra Low 105° ± 5°F
(41°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature The measured overshoot using the glass
bulb thermometer in the exhaust outlet can
be 30°F (17°C) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (redwhite wire) at the connector. If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground. If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
disconnected from power. The following table gives temperatures and ranges for the associated thermistor resistance values.
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
50° (10°) 19.0 -22.0 80° (27°) 8.5-10.5 60° (16°) 14.8-16.8 90° (32°) 6.8-8.8 70° (21°) 11.5-13.5 100° (38°) 5.0-7.0 If the thermistor resistance does not agree with table, replace the exhaust thermistor. If the thermistor resistance checks agree with the measurements in the table, replace the machine control electronics.
TEST #4b Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal fuse by first removing the back panel.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal fuse.
TEST #4c Thermal Cut-Off
If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal cut-off by first removing the back panel. .
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust
system.

TEST #4d Gas Valve
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the gas valve by removing the front panel and drum assembly.
3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has failed. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across terminals.

on Apr 11, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Series 600 kenmore electric dryer wont heat got power timer looks good however does the thermal cut off fuse keep heater coil from heating up because the coil has power but no heat


Hi onewyldeilli
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me
Bud

Oct 09, 2012 | Kenmore 600 6965 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat from tumble dryer


Hi.

If dryer is electric check for lint obstructions, check ventilation, test thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat and high limit, element and fan.

If dryer is gas check for lint obstructions, check ventilation, test thermal fuse, thermistor, cycling thermostat and high limit, igniter, coils, burner, flame sensor and fan.

Dec 14, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Hello there....question?....my dryer just quit yesterday...after drying a few clothes....the timer hums....but when i push to start...NOTHING HAPPENS....only 6 years old....what should I do?


Hi tiffanyprath...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 26, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Mdg3000 no heat


Hi rriceri...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 26, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

The dryer won't start but at different places around the dial I can hear it humming --the same humming that would occur (when the dryer was working) when I would stop the cycle before it was over and...


Hi rosaliekamer...

Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
Please take time to rate me thumbs up

Sep 18, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Model 110 73932101 kenmore elite. Blew the circuit board replaced it and checked the relays. Wont heat, found the thermal fuse is blown. Checked the high limit thermostat and the thermistor. Thermistor...


there is thermal fuse, Hi limit, and thermistor. the thermistor should have continuity at room temp I don't know what resistence(ohms) it should have. Most units I have seen provide a schematic and trouble shooting guide taped under the control panel for service personal.

Apr 15, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have a kenmore he4 no. 110.85871400. i have no heat replaced thermal fuse high limit thermostat anf thermal cutoff switch. still ni heat. elements are good. cleaned all lint. do i need to get a...


Check thermistor with ohm meter, make sure you unplug unit first, make sure wires are removed from thermistor or you will read ohms thru the wiring. If thermistor checks ok, the you have a relay board problem. replace power board.

Sep 29, 2009 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer won't heat


ok you moving in right direction but you jumped a step,,you already checked the thermal cut offf and the operating thermostat,,those where the two on the side of the heater housing,,you should have checked the thermal fuse and the thermistor,,they are on top of the blower wheel housing tuck a lttle to the left,,since you seem that you know what your doing just jump them out starting with the thermal fuse,,,keep me posted on the job

Jan 04, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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