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If this fan uses a run capacitor, I'd check it and its wiring and connection first. No problem there ? Then ohm out the motor winding in the fan. If this is a variable speed ECM motor Then you may want to check the module for a burned out thermistor (inrush current limiter) or even check the wiring harness on the motor for tightness. If the thermistor is defective, you can order one from Digi key for less than $2 + postage, adn then solder it in or pay about a grand for a new motor.
Any product that produce heat have a thermal breaker, a thermal fuse, or both. Thermal breaker usually look like short cylindrical shaped device, while a thermal fuse look like a fuse in which one end is pointed, and it is rated by how many degrees it will go bad. It would say it on the fuse. Thermal breakers will open the circuit when it reaches certain temperature, then closes again as the device cool down. This process keeps repeating to limit the temperature of a heating device.
The fuse is a 110 volt breaker in your service panel. If your heat comes from the heat strip it is inside of the ac in front of the evaporator. If it is a heat pump thats the the compressor. To create heat the compressor runs in reverse. There is a directional relay operated by the circuit board and thermostat to tell the ac what you are calling for, heat or ac. The heat strip is connected to the circuit board and is also operated on 110 volts. You have one of three problems. Breaker tripped, bad heat strip, bad circuit board. Possibilities, find the heat strip cable and unplug and plug it back in a few times,maybe lost connection. That happens at times because of the warm and cold elimates. The heat strip can be tested by takeing it out and bench testing it with 110 power. circuit board can be checked by use of a volt meter, turn the ac to heat and check the pins where the heat strip plugs in. To chech the heat pump you must go up top, remove ac cover and with an amp clamp find the wires going to the compressor and put the amp clamp on one wire only. Amps should be no more than 7 amps. If it is the compressor is shot. If there is no reading then the compressor is not running. Now you may have a bad capacitor which is up top under a sheet metal cover. They also can be tested with a VOM. You will find 2 or 3 capacitors depending on model. Run and start. Capacitors typically are charged with 370 to 600 Volts. They will knock off the top of your camper. BE AWARE OF THE FACT YOU ARE DEALING WITH 110 VOLTS. IF YOU ARE NOT FAMILIAR OR COMFORTABLE GET SOME QUALIFIED HELP. GOOD LUCK
1) the thermal fuse for each of the elements have melted 2) the elements themselves have broken and opened 3) Heat sequencers have failed 4) One or more fuses inside the heater have failed (if fuses were installed from the factory.).
Items 1 and 2 are indications of poor airflow through the unit for some reason (dirty filter, closed vents, dirty evaporator/buildup of dirt/dust on evaporator.)
no its a thermal fuse you can by pass it for testing but run long witout it and may get fire other disc is thermal limiter which if it fails then thermal fuse blows i reccomend replacing both as thermal disc may be stuck in closed position