Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Bosch dishwasher stuck on "1"
We called Sears (who installed the Bosch) and referenced these threads that the cause was very likely the control board and would they please bring one when they come out to check. They came out and checked and...guess what? Gotta order a control board...came in 2 weeks later and solved the problem.
Posted on Feb 11, 2008
We had this problem with our machine.
There turned out to be a few things that caused it:
- Firstly, the float assembly (an orange looking float in a little chamber, visible if you take off the left-hand panel of the machine) was clogged - we cleaned this and it seemed to help.
- The heat exchanger matrix was full of debris - we tried to clean this but ended up damaging it and bought a new one.
.. these two things seemed to improve the cleaning and the machine worked for a while.
The real problem though (which caused it to pump out continuously) turned out to be a failed seal on the circulation pump.
If you look on page 4 of the following link:
.. you will see a diagram of the bottom of the machine - the part that failed was 171598, which you can see on the bottom middle-to-right hand side of the picture..
The rubber had perished very badly, and it was causing water to leak into the bottom of the machine, which triggers 'flood mode' whereby it pumps continuously and doesn't actually wash the dishes.
The part costs about £5 - fitting it is not straightforward though, as you need to strip the machine down which is a pretty involved job.
If you think you're up to it, the steps I followed were:
- Remove both side panels
- On the left hand side, remove heat exchanger matrix and float assembly
- Remove kick-panel under the front door
- On the right hand side, remove all wiring from the door to the machine (including an earthing wire which is screwed to the side of the machine) - note that there are two wires which go to push-on connectors which have to be removed separately - all the others go to connector blocks.
- Inside the machine, remove the wire baskets, spray arm and bottom filter.
- Remove the lid from the salt dispenser - and now the tricky part, you need to find something that will allow you to remove the large plastic 'nut' that holds the salt dispenser to the machine.
- Remove the two screws in the bottom of the machine (167241 in the diagram mentioned above)
- Now, shut the door and then disconnect the door spring mechanism from the left and right side of the door.
- Disconnect the string from the door closing mechanism from the springs at the left and right back corners, under the machine.
- Remove the two screws at the back of the machine which connect the top of the machine to the base.
- Remove the two screws at the front of the machine which connect the top of the machine to the base (these are quite low down, near the door hinges).
Now, you should be able to lift the top of the machine off the base, and will have access to the pump etc.
... re-assembly is the reverse of disassembly ;-)
This took me a couple of hours - it might be better to find somebody who will do it for you for fixed cost as it's a pig of a job.
For what it's worth, there seemed to be very few places where the machine could leak - and this looked to be the major one - and there are a few push-fit pipes which are worth checking out too.
Hope this helps somebody.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
Try this link, http://www.applianceaid.com/boschDW.html for procedures for running self-tests on various Bosch models using the front door switches. Find your model and read and follow the procedure.
This remaining at '1' problem invariably relates to a 'heater fault' which has usually been traced to an open solder joint on the control board located behind the switches/indicator lights on front door. See pic here of open solder joint http://www.flickr.com/photos/zenzoidman/145089572/ In most cases, the heating element has not been at fault.
I got mine going again by resoldering the joint and saved ~$300 in parts & labour. If this is beyond your skill set, then replace the control board assembly, 266746, which is used on multiple Bosch models. See this page for more information if you want to try to DIY. http://www.appliancejournal.com/appliance-parts/bosch-appliance-parts/bosch-dishwasher-control-module-266746-37/
If this is still beyond your skill set, then call a tech & supply the Bosch model, serial number, and the results of the self-tests.
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
It sounds like there's a problem with the dishwasher's heating element. The dishwasher uses the heating element to heat the water to certain temperatures, and it will wait (run for extra time) for the water to reach this temperature, and may eventually give up. When it's time to dry, the dishwasher uses the heating element to steam dry the dishes. If you're not technically savvy, you will probably need to have a pro work on the machine, but first check to make sure there's not hard water scale buildup on the heating element. If you're brave enough to work on the machine, you should check to see if the element's plugged in, check its resistance to make sure it conducts electricity, check the element's switching components, and finally the dw's computer board. There's a chance that the machine is just stuck in a loop or something. You should try turning off the circuit for a few minutes. There's a chance it may reset and start working.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
100% add the jet dry until it is completetly filled then close the dispenser door and lower then raise the door.repeat this at least three times then check and fill if you can still add more. then after doing that b4 you start the machine run the hot water to get the right temp. when the water is hot enough then start the machine.
Posted on Mar 03, 2010
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