Question about Dryers

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Installed new glow tube but found out it is not getting any power to ingnite it, not sure where to go I did check saftys and they were all closed.

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  • brian436 Mar 10, 2009

    I'm not sure I understand where is ingniter mod located because I do not have any power to glow tubeand check all connections

  • brian436 Mar 10, 2009

    where is main board located

  • brian436 Mar 10, 2009

    I will not know till I try it

  • brian436 Mar 11, 2009

    I have tried all the trouble shooting that has been told to me and I thank you all for your help, but I still do not have power at the glow tube and I'm not sure why . I guess I will call a service man and it kills me to do this I have been in maintenance for 25yrs and never have had this problem before. I guess i'm just getting old for this.


    Thanks
    Brian


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6 Answers

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How to Repair Electric Furnaces

http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-electric-furnaces.htm

and also where the fuses are located in the unit to check out
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-electric-furnaces2.htm

for Troubleshooting Electric Furnaces and Electric Heaters
http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-electric-furnaces1.htm

click the links 1 by 1 and check out.
thanks.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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This is the basic.. It may varies by company.

Tstat calls for heat..

Power goes to the control board.

Power turns on the small inducer fan..

Pressure switch(s) closes.

Power from pressure switch goes though temp limit(s) switches.

Then goes to the ignitor modular

Modular then turns on the ignitor.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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Hi!

Check the wiring from selector switch to the coil. Also check for the relay on the control board it might be loose or burnt

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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Look on the main board and check for any blown fuses because if there are any, it will not allow power to pass into the glow tube.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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Be sure the belt is looped over and around each pulley correctly. There also has to be a tensioning arm (lever) that must be tensioned correctly and enough to activate a micro (tiny) switch.

Not exactly sure how that setup works. But the point here is that tiny micro switch has to be activated, if equipped with one, to allow the hot surface glow ignitor to operate. If not, the rum will rotate but the ignitor will not turn on. Without ignitor the burner will not turn on either.

First place to check is on the control panel. Be sure all selections are correct. Than recheck the timer selector setting. Than access the burner viewing area, usually through a door panel access.

Once all the is done, turn machine on as normally done.

Watch the burner area. The glowing hot surface ignitor should activate. You will hear a tiny click just prior to the glow ignitor beginning to glow. If that happens, allow a few moments of time to pass.

A second click should be heard shortly thereafter. The second tiny click heard will or should turn on the gas inside the burner valve and the burner should than fire up.

None of the above will happen if the glow ignitor is broken or defective. The hot surface glow ignitor is the part very close to the front of the burner tube where the flames would be. Check to verify the ingitor is not broken.

The ignitor may be a flat white bar with extended gray colored tuning fork like elements. It will have a protective thin metal covering. Or it may be a round coil of gray material covered with a thin metal covering.

The gray surface area is the element, which will glow when electrical current is applied to it. The color will start out orange and turn a bright yellow orangish color. When it reaches the correct temperature, the second click will be heard.

At this time the burner gas will be allowed out of the gas control valve and the ignitor will ignite the gas. Flames will appear.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 Mar 10, 2009

    TROUBLESHOOT IF EVERYTHING WORKED OUT RIGHT



    The ignitor coil must glow. It must be HOT and glow an INTENSE bright yellow orange color. If not, it's considered to be burned out. If it fails to glow at all, it's also possible it's completely burned out.

    Other items you may need to do or want to check/do {whichever applies} while your in the process of repairing the dryer.

    Restricted Exhaust Vent:
    The vent tube is located behind or to the side of the dryer. It needs to be removed totally from both sides to completely clear out the lint.

    Check the entire venting system. This also includes the exhaust vent hood outside. It has a flapper that may not be opening fully or not at all. Locate any restriction within the entire exhaust system and clean out all lint. Replace exhaust vent tubing as needed. Plastic vent tubing is fine.

    Defective Solenoids:
    There are two...both are on top of the gas valve.
    Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop. All terminals on both solenoids must have continuity. If not, you'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

    Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the holddown cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs. Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

    Defective Gas Valve:
    Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.

    CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item!

    Defective Glow Ignitor:
    It's a rare possibility but worth noting here. The glow ignitor may glow but just be too weak to allow current to continue to flow to the coils. The solenoid coils are also part of the electrical loop and may effect proper glow ignitor operation or functioning.

    Timer:
    Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons.

    Timers also have cams that open and close those contact points. If the timer hangs-up on a lobe, it may or may not advance to the next cycle.

    If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem you're having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.

    If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.

    Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely soley on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.

    A Fuseable Link:
    Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.

    Flame Sensor:
    This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem your discribing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.

    However, do not rely on the continuity test to prove the part is functioning correctly. The only proof positive method to be sure the part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part and have the local appliance parts store person do the testing.

    Door Safety Switch:
    The door safety switch {that extended button in the door frame} is the part that pops out when the door is opened. This button controls the entire operation of the dryer when it's running. If it fails to pop out or the switch fails to disconnect internally, the dryer will not shut off when the door opens. Neither will anything on the appliance work if this button does not make internal contact when the door is closed.

    Safety Reminder:
    ALWAYS be positive you have unplugged the electrical power and turned off the gas supply to the appliance prior to attempting any repairs!

    FYI:
    The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts. There are parts such as flame sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, etc. when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.

    TIP:
    Best method is to determine if any part is funtioning correctly is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential culprit, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests.

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Chances are the ignitier module has failed, any appliance parts store can supply this part.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • yadayada
    yadayada Mar 10, 2009

    do u have gas flowing out the burner?? if not the gas valve is most likely defective, if it does flow it is most likely the igniter or the igniter control circuit.

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