Question about Acer Aspire One Netbook 8.9" Notebook

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I hear a noise like bowling pins being knocked down at random times while on the computer. Is this a virus? If so, how can I remove it?

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  • m_1sanderson Mar 13, 2009

    The computer began slowing down around the same time that I started hearing the bowling pins sound. I tried all the scanning programs, but it persisted. After I posted this I read a fix for another problem and tried My Computer///Performance & Maintenance///System Restore. I restored it to the earliest date I had on the computer and have not heard the noise since. It is running better also. I was glad I created the restore point as soon as I got it up and running back in January. Thanks to those that responded. I love this site!

  • Mr fix.it May 11, 2010

    Can you check where this noise is coming from from which part of the laptop please so that I can help you further.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 11, 2010

    this is quite unusual. are you say that the speakers are playing this sound when you are working on the CPU??

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Have you managed to verify if it was the hard drive ?

Thanks

Regards.

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

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Sounds like your Hdd is going bad. unless your saying that sound is coming out of your speakers if not thats your hard drive save all paper work to a flash drive and replace the hard drive(hdd)

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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2 Answers

My kitchen aid stand mixer startnig making noise and wobbling. I noticed that the pin attaching the top to the base has been pushed out halfway and I can't push it back. Any solutions?


Remove the bowl, turn it upside down on a towel, look up inside the pedestal. Right in the middle where the hinge pin goes through there is a screw, unscrew it a little, push the hinge pin back to where it belongs and then tighten the screw up tight. Turn mixer up the right way, raise head up, fit bowl & flat paddle. Lower head & turn machine on low, listen for paddle tinging on bowl, if it is touching turn off and raise the head. Look into hinge area from the front, that screw is the head height adjustment. Clockwise to lower paddle in bowl, anti clockwise to raise. You want to lower it until you hear the paddle tinging on the bowl & then raise it enough to clear without tinging. You don't wind the screw in & out huge amounts, 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time is plenty.

Dec 14, 2014 | KitchenAid KITCHEN AID 5 Quart Artisan...

1 Answer

How do i reduce ignition knock noise in platina 125


I'll need a definition of "ignition knock noise"...

If you are experiencing knock it is likely that your carburetor is dirty or improperly jetted. There are other potential causes, but with a 125 this is the most likely.

If it is just some random "knocking" noise, but not actually engine knock than your guess is as good as any, because I can't hear it.

Oct 16, 2014 | Motorcycles

2 Answers

Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Knocking noise


The only thing that moves inside the PC that can knock with those effects is the hard drive. The knocking sound is the heads constantly re-parking and trying to synchronize to the platters. That is a sound you don't want to hear. I would IMMEDIATELY copy off ANYTHING that you don't want to lose forever from that disk, because death is imminent.

Dec 04, 2013 | HP TouchSmart Computers & Internet

1 Answer

Knocking noise in engine of 2002 Nissan maxima


This is hard to say with hearing the noise but try to pin point the noise , is it coming from the top or bottom of the motor , the knocking noise could be a bearing in the lower motor or may be something else making it sound like a bearing,

Oct 05, 2012 | 2002 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

What are the rules of a ten-pin bowling game?


In ten pin bowling, matches consist of each player bowling tenframes. A frame allows a bowler two chances to knock down all ten pins. Thenumber of pins knocked over in each frame is recorded, a running total is madeas each frame progresses, and the player with the highest score in his gamewins the match.

Jul 23, 2012 | Sport & Outdoor - Others

1 Answer

LG wd8013F bowl support plastic pin fell out. I turned machine upside-down, replaced plastic pin, now doesnt wash or spin.


(A) Set-up
1) The inner bowl is supported by (2) heavy springs at the top, plus (2) telescopic shock absorbers beneath the bowl.

(B) Observed Problem
1) Inner bowl was missaligned, causing out of balance knocking & banging, also drive belt was squealing from misalignment.

(C) Remedy:
1) Disconnect power from outlet.
2) Remove (4) screws from back plate, remove back plate.
3) Bowl is suspended on (2) heavy springs from top, and (2) telescopic shock absorbers below bowl.
4) Inspection showed plastic pin retaining shock absorber end to frame had fallen out.
5) Place old carpet or whatever on floor, invert washing machine.
6) Re-align end of shock absorber into housing piece.
7) Re-insert plastic pin (about 2 inches long x 1/2 inch diameter) securely into place.
8) Re-assemble.

Also:
a) It could be one of the top springs as per (B)1 above may have broken or become loose.
b) In this case the top cover plate is easily removed from machine by removing (2) screws at the rear top of cover.
This gives access to the (2) heavy springs, which are easily repaired.


Note:
Sometimes the machine will not re-start again following out of balance problems.
1) Turn power off again, re-boot like computer.
2) There is also a re-boot procedure similar to Alt+Ctrl+Del on computer.
3) Use three buttons simulateously, Start+spin+option buttons or similar.
4) I fiddled with these until all lights lit up, then after a while the machine worked satsifactorily.

Cheers

Nov 06, 2008 | LG Washing Machines

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