Question about Eljer Aqua-Saver Toilet Actuator - 495-272/Choose Finish=Polished Brass Flu

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Leak between tank and bowl on Eljer 150-403

Eljer 150 403 leaks sprayes water from between the tank and the bowl at flush. The nut on one side is loose. How do I thighten it when it is not possible to access the top of the bolt to stop it from spinning?

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  • Anonymous Mar 24, 2014

    water leaks inside the tank

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Hi , the top of the bolt has a square shaft and slots in a grooved metal bracket , Try pulling down on the wingnut as you tighten , you should feel it slot in, once its semmi tight i shouldnt spin , If its been leaking then maybe its sludged up so you should take the cistern off alltogether and reset the rubber ring gasket , that way you can tape the bolt down with gaffa tape to aid reassembly,

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

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Eljer toilet bolts rusted causing massive flooding


Turn off the water at the supply (under the toilet, usually).Flush the tank to remove all water from the tank.Disconnect the supply from the tank.Remove bolt caps or bolt covers from where the toilet bolts to the bathroom floor.Remove bolts from the floor flange. When you lift the toilet up, you'll see a metal or plastic flange. If the toilet has been there for a long time the bolts may not pull out of the flange easily. In this case you may have to use a small hacksaw to cut the bolt below the nut.Put newspaper or an old towel on the floor so you can place the old toilet on it. Lift the toilet off the flange.Take the new bowl (assuming this is a two-piece toilet) and turn it upside down. Position the wax ring on the horn of the outlet. Install new solid brass flange bolts, mount them and position them on the centerline on either side of the outlet.Push the bowl down over the bolts and seal the outlet. The wax will squeeze down and seal.Put the new bolts, washers and bolt caps on. You may have to trim the bolt with a hacksaw.Once the bolts are secure, mount the tank.Make sure the gasket between the tank and toilet is in place. Then position the tank on the bowl. Run bolts through the tank and secure. Don't over tighten (the tank can crack).Hook up the water supply line.Connect the supply to the line on the bottom of the tank.Turn on the water.Let the tank fill.Flush once or twice to make sure the water control is properly adjusted.Put the tank lid on.Enjoy.
ford performance chip.

May 25, 2012 | Eljer Toilets & Bidets

2 Answers

My toilet keeps leaking water and then fill ups on its own. Where could the leak be how do I fix it? Also I have to hold down the flush lever awhile for the toilet to completely flush. Can this be fixed ?...


If you are not getting puddles on the floor then it is probably the 'FLAP" that holds the water in the tank. It is the rubber part that is connected to your handle. Any hardware store will carry that part since it is an item that will fail, especially in hard water. It is probably the cause of both problems.

Jul 25, 2011 | Eljer & Titan Elongated Toilet Bowl

1 Answer

My eljer tank cracked and I need to install a new tank. How do I just install a new tank? The bowl is fine. Companies are trying to charge me about $300 to do this and I do not have the money. Please...


Let's assume you can buy the tank.
Installation of tank is simple.

If you can buy the eljer tank, you can buy whole new toilet with bowl and tank from home center.

We'll walk through instructions for both options.

1) How to replace tank on existing bowl.
-Tank is attached from underneath with two nuts.
-Turn off water, and hold flush valve down to drain tank
-Water connection is one nut. Follow supply line up to where it connects to tank. Loosen the nut that is around supply line just underneath tank. Pull nut downward and notice a black rubber washer that is probably stuck inside nut, or is stuck at bottom of tank. Make a note of where that nut is because it seals the water line to tank.
-You might also have a flex connector instead of supply tube. In that case, just unscrew flex connect from bottom of flush valve.
-Look beneath the tank and there are two nuts that hold tank to bowl.
-Take off these two nuts. A ratchet and socket is best tool, but you can use crescent wrench. -Notice these nuts are not exceptionally tight, but they are firm.
-Straddle the bowl and hold tank with two hands and lift up. Tank will come right up.
-Notice that on bottom of the tank: there are 2 bolts sticking out and there is a spongy rubber washer. This is the spud washer. Your new tank will have new washer. This washer seals tank to bowl so water doesn't leak when you flush.
-Notice round opening where flush water flows into bowl. Spud washer seals this hole. If you have experienced slow flushing, or if you have hard water, pour several cupfuls of CLR Calcium Lime Rust into the hole. CLR is sold at Home Depot by the gallon for $10.

-Open box to new tank. Find spud washer and fix it to bottom of new tank.
-Now a new tank is slippery, I want you to set boxes on floor nearby so if tank starts slipping, aim toward a box instead of hard tile floor.
-New tank comes with 2 new bolts, with nuts. Look at instruction sheet and see exactly how they want you to connect bolts to tank. Look carefully where they want you to put washers. These washer seal the tank when you tighten bolts.
-Now your spud washer is in place, the bolts are attached to tank and are sticking out of bottom of tank.
-Straddle bowl and lower new tank into place. Make sure spud washer lines up. Bolts line up. And flush valve lines up with supply tube. It's that easy.
-Tighten the nuts. Remember, not too tight. Toilet is not steel. And you can tighten more if there is seeping water.
-Now tank is in place. Raise nut and washer that are on supply tube and tighten nut onto bottom of flush valve. This nut is fairly tight. You might want to buy a new washer.
-If you have a flex line for the water supply, then just connect the flex line.

-Turn water ON a little bit at a time to avoid gusher if something is not correct.
-Use paper towels to check for dripping or seepage beneath tank. Tighten nuts appropriately to end seepage.
-Flush toilet and look for seepage around spud washer.
-You're done.

2) How to install new toilet.
-Remove old tank as shown above.
-Bowl is held to floor with two nuts.
-Ideal world those two nuts come right off and you lift bowl up off the floor.
-Real world, those nuts are rusted and you have to drill through side of the nut and bolt to break it off.
-Lift bowl up.
-Have cardboard ready next to toilet so you can set bowl on something. Or set it in bathtub.
-Bowl will be damp and wax ring is on bottom of bowl and will mess up the floor.
-Notice how the toilet bolts are set in the floor flange. Take photo if needed so you can put it back. It's real simple, but if you have never done this, a photo might help.
-Take putty knife and scrape wax ring off of floor flange. You want it smooth, but you don't clean it.
-New toilet comes with wax ring and bolts, but you might have to buy these at hardware store. Get wax right with gasket. The boxes are marked. Buy two of them.
-Set wax ring in center of floor flange. Gasket goes downward. Rounded side of wax ring goes up.
-Set new toilet bolts into floor flange. Keep bolts straight up using wax from the old wax ring, or from 2nd wax right you purchased.
-Keep bolts straight across from each other.
-Time to set the toilet.
-Stand in front of bowl and grab on either side at point where seat connects.
-Here's the fun part.
-Bowl has to go straight down onto wax ring so you have to be strong enough to hold tank level while aligning tank with bolts, without knocking the bolts down. Like a carnival game.
-Straddle walk toilet while holding it up high enough so it will not knock over the bolts.
-Lower bowl into place going straight down using bolts as guide. Lower a little bit and check one side for alignment and then check other side until bowl is going down and bolts fit through the holes.
-If bolt falls over or gets pushed away, straddle walk toilet back and set bolt straight up again.
-Once bowl is aligned, keep pushing straight down on bowl, and finally use your weight to push bowl to floor. Be careful to keep bowl perpendicular to wall so tank will sit straight.
-Attach bowl to floor with nuts and washers.
-Install tank as shown above.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on toilet or any do-it-yourself project.

Jan 12, 2011 | Eljer 141-0220-00 Toilet Tank White

1 Answer

Eljer runs constantly. Replaced the flapper to no avail. I can see the wate flow in on the right side of th bowl looking at the tank. Any suggestions?


The next thing for you to check is the fill valve itself, make sure it is shutting off. shut off the water to the toilet and see if the leak stops after a few minutes. it may also be a leaking gasket on the flush valve gasket. also be sure the flapper area is clean. hope this helps. let me know if you need anything else.

Jan 04, 2011 | Eljer Toilets & Bidets

1 Answer

This summer I purchased a eljer toilet. it listed as a 10 flush which is the best I guess. now it is continually turning on to level out the tank. is this normal for eljer toilets? and if not what has to...


ok, this sounds like a float or valve issue, should be an easy fix. you can adjust the float or just replace it with the one piece type. you may not be able to adjust it and get it to work, so I think the best thing to do is just replace the whole float assembly. About ten dollars or so at home depot or someplace like that. Turn off the supply valve, flush the toilet,and drain the tank by removing the plastic nut underneath on the left side. Drain the remaining water into a bowl. There is also a nut on the supply line that will need to be removed first. When you remove the nut that is flush with the bottom of the tank that also holds the valve in place inside. Take off the rubber hose inside the tank and remove the entire float and valve. The new one piece will have a adjustment for the tank level by just turning the entire unit. Make sure you put the rubber washer that is supplied with it on the bottom and put it back into the tank and tighten from the bottom with the new plastic nut. Make sure the valve inside is pointed at the plastic tube and re-attach the rubber hose. Then attach the supply line, tight, but not with a tool, just your hand. Turn on the supply valve, re-fill the tank, flush, and check for leaks. Remember, buy the one piece type, should be a gray valve with a black float built right on it. Good luck

Dec 01, 2010 | Eljer & Complete Toilet In A Box

1 Answer

My toilet only leaks when flushed. It seems to be coming from the connection at the tank. The tank is not cracked and a new hose from tank to shut off valve has been installed. The toilet is only 4 years...


If you have 2-part toilet, then tank is attached to bowl with 2 bolts.
Look inside tank and you can see bolts with rubber washers located on either side of flush valve.
The 2 bolts hold tank and bowl together and between tank and bowl is a washer called the spud washer.
So spud washer could be leaking ... or 2 bolts could be leaking.

1) If bolts are leaking, there is usually dripping all the time, and drips are visible on bottoms of bolts
If spud washer is leaking, then tank could leak only when tank is flushed.

2) First thing to try is tightening nuts on the 2 bolts. Nuts may be loose. Tighten nuts a few turns, and check if toilet still leaks.

3) To fix a spud washer, you usually need a new generic one from hardware store.
Newer tanks with 1.6 gallon flush have special sized spud washer.
geno_3245_105.jpgTank is upside down and spud washer is fit over flush valve

If you cannot find new spud washer, re-use old one and smear retorseal on it during re-assembly to make sure it seals. Rectoseal is good for many home plumbing repairs. More about that in a moment.
geno_3245_104.jpg

4) To take apart tank: Disconnect supply line to tank. Empty water out of tank. Remove nuts from bolts. Lift tank off. Wash out tank with hose. Make sure there is no sand or sediment left in bottom that might clog up flush holes located inside bowl after tank is re-assembled.

5) Remove old spud washer, and put new one on. Do a google-image search for 'spud washer' if you need more photos. New spud washer fits over flush valve. That's it. And then reassemble tank.
If you want to apply rectorseal to washer, put washer on as shown in photo above. Then smear-or-gawm rectorseal over area of washer that sits on bowl. Rectorseal will make sure there is no more leaking.

Nov 24, 2010 | Bemis 1200 Slow Elongated Toilet Seat,...

1 Answer

Leaks from tank into bowl and when flush as it


Hi,
Change the flapper with a generic one that will fit that toilet... the OEM flapper is **** and it does not allow for a good flush either...

heatman101

Aug 03, 2010 | Eljer Toilet Onepiece Canterbury ...

2 Answers

Low water level in bowl after flushing


The small black tube that goes into the overflow is used to fill the bowl after flushing. Would check to make sure that water is coming out of that tube at full force or if its coming out at all.

May 11, 2010 | Eljer & Elongated Toilet Bowl

2 Answers

In the tank, when I flush, water comes shooting out of the black plastic thing, about 2 feet high! How can I make this stop so it flushes properly again? (its an eljer 2001)


is the black thing between the the tank and the bowl?
if so, go to any of the home center or plumping store for the seal.
shunt off the water and unbolt the 3 bolts that holds the tank to the bowl from the buttom. you may need a flat screw driver to help hold the bolts. pull up the tank slowly, and lay it on the side, replace the seal, reseat the tank on to the bowl and tighten the bolts. make sure all bolts are equal pressure and the tank is level.

May 05, 2009 | Eljer & Patriot& Elongated Toilet Bowl

1 Answer

No back flush pressure


increase the tank water level half inch at a time till you have the back flush pressure.
seems like the water in the bowl is too low to create any wirlpool.

Oct 30, 2008 | Eljer Aqua-Saver 12" Two-Piece...

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