Question about Makita Power Generators
I'm looking for makita inverter generator G1700I parts.I bought it 4years ago and went to use it the other day but it didn't work having taking it apart the magnets are cracked and chipped inside.The company I bought it off have closed and now I need the parts to replace the magnetic drum inside any help would be grateful thank you
GENSET ALL PROBLEM FIXES - 2 PARTS
Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR without OIL in the units to begin with!!!! (See esp #3 and Final Notes below as well)
And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!
I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?
If you bought your Genset from other then a Home Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do for you.
Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!
Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new Genset:
1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")
2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token (even if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!
3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an "Electrical ON-OFF Switch" usually a single-pole single-throw type btw, and it can go bad with high usage)? Does it move freely from OFF to ON? Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting around too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding air! This switch actually & electronically is wired in REVERSE so that when switched to the ON position the wired contacts are OPEN thus letting the Ignition Coil fire for SPARK. When switched to the OFF position the wired contacts are now CLOSED thus connecting (or switching) the "Control Board" logic voltage signal (usually anywhere from +3 to +12 VDC upon start-up) to GROUND - thus cutting the RUN voltage to the Ignition Coil fire - as in SHUTDOWN. On some model designs there also may be a separate IDLE CONTROL SWITCH and POWER REGULATOR BOARD for better POWER LOAD self-regulation depending on constant variable loads placed on the Genset as related to the work-site demands. If there is NO VOLTAGE OUTPUT but yet good engine RPM function - then I would look at this part first and then #8.
4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?
5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.
6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of 2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening more then just a few times myself. You might try and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the bottom of the Float Bowl on your model - DO NOT HIT THAT GAS SHUT-OFF SOLENOID WITH THE RUBBER HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues, and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset begins to run great - as it should - and continues to do so - then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole Assy there just as an added precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly, and/or totally remove the Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting inside to the Float at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing more! If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before, and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start - even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!
Posted on Sep 10, 2008
SOURCE: Generator is not working!
pramac has bought coleman powermate. to order parts call 1-800-445-1805. my guess is the printed curcuit boaed on the back of the gen head is bad if sparking the roter doen't fix it. i hav e had to change alot of these boards out.
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
SOURCE: Brand new Generator not working
pramac bought coleman powermate phone 1800-445-1805. try to spark roter if thats not it maybe printed curcuit board in the back of generator head
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
on the end of the rotor their is a Diode as well as a varistor these will go bad common in these units and cause a power loss these are attached to the rotor by a strip some like a pc board some a insulated tang to say remove the 2 one on each side Diode part# 778959 varistor part# 778961 manufacture numbers you should be able to go to any electronic store like radio shack and cross ref the numbers as to the diode i don't have the spec's but when you find it it will have the voltage rating get the next size up it is better to go to a higher voltage what the diode does it acts like a 1 way valve power flows one way and if their is a spike it wont allow it to come bach and damage parts before it it will also act like a fuse to sorts to much it will pop. the varistor varies the flow their sensitive and adjustable if purchased from other than manufactures factory it will need to be adjusted hope one is good and use a multi meter and test the Resistance and adjust the new one to that spec as close as you can at the end plate their is a capacitor part # 778958 replace this as well again go a higher volt rating but do not change the MF value with this said and done.your will have a more stable sign wave and beefier circuitry able to hold up better use lock tight on the screws for these.ther is not any control in the box with the plugs just breakers after replacing these parts and there is still no power then the stator is shorted and will need either re-winding or replaced.
hope this helps.
Posted on Sep 01, 2010
SOURCE: yamaha ef 2800 i generator
Check the low oil sending unit.(Make SURE there is enough oil in the unit) Take the 2 wires off and join together. If the unit starts, then replace the sending unit and put the 2 wires back on. good luck
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
SOURCE: Our Honda EB 3500 generator
It's either not getting enough fuel, or the govenor is not working. When the engine is running, watch the throttle linkage between the carburetor and engine, looks like a bent wire. When you throw a load on it, it should move to give the engine more power, if it dont, try moving it by hand.
If that appears to be working ok, check the fuel line from the tank to the carb for good gas flow.
You can also remove the float bowl on the bottom of the carb, it's a round bowl on the bottom of the carb with a bolt in the middle of it...clean it out and check the float. The float looks like a little catamaran, make sure it is moving freely up and down. That is about all you can do without removing and cleaning the jets in the carb.
Good luck, & i hope this helps.
Posted on Aug 27, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 18, 2015 | Makita Power Generators
Sep 06, 2012 | Power Generators
Aug 27, 2011 | Honda Power Generators
May 11, 2011 | Makita G6100R 5800 Watt Generator
Oct 27, 2009 | Briggs & Stratton Automatic Home Standby...
Feb 20, 2009 | Honda Power Generators
Dec 31, 2008 | Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W...
Nov 24, 2008 | Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W...
Aug 01, 2008 | Makita Power Generators
104 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: