Question about Krups FDD813 Meal Master Sandwich / Waffle / Pizzelle Maker

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FDD8 sandwich maker will not heat up

I disassembled the bottom of the FDD8. I have electrical continuity on the blue wire up to the button under the cooking plate. I lose electrical continuity at the button under the cooking plate. I noticed that this button moves down when the cooking plate is installed. I have no electrical continuity in either the up or down position of this button. What is the purpose of this button?? I have electrical continuity on the brown wire all the way to the heating coil. I have electrical continuity on the heating coil.

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The purpose of the button is to shut off the power to the heating coil when there is no cooking plate in place. It appears by your tests that the button (switch) has failed. You can jumper around the switch to verify that this is the case. If the heating coil gets hot with the jumper in place, then you need to replace the switch (button). If it does not get hot, then either the heating coil has a bad connection to the wiring. the coil is actually bad and needs to be replaced or there is a break in the neutral circuit somewhere. Did you do a continuity check on the neutral side of the circuit? There should also be a thermostat (tempurature control) and a thermofuse in the circuit that you should also check for continuity.

Posted on Sep 12, 2009

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Its a circuit interupteur

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

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4. The top and the bottom should feel the same. CAUTION THEY ARE VERY HOT
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I ahve a wonderful conditon villaware waffle and panni sandwich maker. It has a knob with numbers 1, 2, 3 and 4. I have no idea how to cook a waffle on it. I am guessing you heat it on maybe 3 until the...


You can download the manual from this site:
http://www.retrevo.com/samples/VillaWare-manuals.html
Recipes:
http://www.mrbreakfast.com/article.asp?articleid=29

Bon appetit!

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Here is what is happening, and if you're out of warranty and so inclined how to easily fix it yourself.

Make sure you are unplugged from the wall before doing anything or you will get shocked. You do not need to take the bottom cover off the base. You do not need to take the top plate apart (they super glued one screw in the top plate (lid), you'll strip out the screw head trying to remove it anyhow). All you need to open is the bottom plate, it has 4 screws in it you will see when you open the lid, these screws are not super glued and will come out. 2 on each side in the back, 2 in the center of the front, long screws go in the back, short in the front.

There are 2 white wires, 1 black wire, 1 green wire that run up the neck of the waffle maker to heat the top and bottom heating elements. The 2 white wires are neutral, the green wire is a ground, the black wire is power.

This black wire runs from the electronic control board in the base of the unit, up the neck in the rear, through a thermal fuse, to the bottom element then jumps up to the top element. All you need to take apart is the bottom plate, the part you pour the batter into. It has 4 screws you will see when you open the top plate up, take those out and you are going to find the black wire is covered by a white rubber like tube about 3 inches long. In the center of this rubber insulation there is a metal clip with a single screw. Take that screw out, pull off the metal clip and slide (don't cut) the rubber like insulation back.

You will find the black wire is crimped onto a silver metal bullet looking component. This component is called a "thermal fuse", its designed to fail at 240 degrees C. Its obviously a design flaw and the thermal fuse is under rated for the actual heat within the device. Its also a one shot fuse, so when it blows it kills power on the black wire from going to the top and bottom plates, thus no heat. It is not resettable.

I didn't even cut mine out (Waring is very skimpy with their wire, they don't leave you even a hint of extra wire to work with). I just tightly twisted the bare metal wire on each side of this component like a bread tie leaving the blown fuse in place. Then be sure to slide the rubber like insulation back over all of the bare metal so it is covering the black wire on both sides. If you don't it will short out and blow your house circuit breaker when you turn it on.

This thermal fuse was probably a requirement of the UL Listing. Its over kill, everything in there is metal so if it over heats in that area there is nothing flammable to burn. If a run away temperature occurs the wire itself will melt, short out and trip your house breaker. There are stacks of these units brand new with this same problem anyone reading this is having, the thermal fuse is under rated, the fix is simple.

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