There are several reasons why no heat. if you have fuses ckeck to make sure they are good It could be the heating element itself. It could be a safety snap switch It could also be the power cord con. to the machine is bad
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I would say the motor is over heating. But here are some other things to do:
1) Have you tried different cycle types.Heat/no heat and auto/timed.
2) Try running diagnostics to see if any thing pops up as unusual.
3) Check for a bad/loose connection somewhere in the wiring/dryer.
4) Check that the connections at the terminal strip are all tight.
5) Put pressure on the door and try it, as the door switch is just closing and when the unit starts to vibrate it opens killing power to the unit.
6) Check the connections at the control board to be sure they are clean, properly crimped and tight.
7) Check the connections at the motor and thermal fuse are good.
Hopefully this helps, may want to use a meter and make sure you are getting the correct voltage,also.
Dear Barry, Try 2 things. One, be certain the clothes are very dry coming out of the washing machine. If the washer leaves the clothes wet ( like the belt might be slipping), it can take the dryer forever to finish drying the clothes. You can tell by hand-wringing them. You should not be able to get any water out of them by hand-wringing after they have spun dry in the washer. Two, try running a load with the vent hose unhooked off the back of the dryer. If this fixes the problem, you are having a "clogged vent" issue somehow. Be blessed.
Sounds like your heating element or fuse is bad. If the dryer runs normally just no heat it is usually one of these. First make sure your breaker is on and you are getting 220v to the dryer. Try turning the breaker off and back on and then try your dryer again. If you have a volt/ohm meter it will be a great help in testing parts. You can get an inexspensive one at a hardware store between 10 to 15 dollars. It will come with instructions and I will guide you thru it. First unplug the dryer and pull it out you will need to remove the lower panel off of the dryer. It covers nearly the entire back and is held on with 5/16 screws. After the back is off you will see a metal encased heating element on the right side of the dryer as you face the back. At the bottom of this casing you will see two wire terminals with two wires connected to it. (some have two wires on one of the connections and one wire on the other) Remove the wires by pulling them off they can be very tight so grab them with some needle nose plyers on the metal connector not the wire and pull hard. If you have a volt meter you can put it on the ohm scale and hold the wire leads to the heating element terminals. Put one side on and then watch the meter as you touch the second lead to the other terminal the meter hand should peg out or if it is digital read a high number. If you do not have a meter you can remove the element there is a 5/16 screw holding it on one end and a slot it fits into on the other. Remove it from the machine and look up inside you may be able to see the heating element broken. Remove the screws holding the element to the casing and slide it out look closely at the element sometimes the break is hard to see. You may even have to shake the element to get the break to open up. When an element heats up a break will pull apart. If the element is bad replace it. If not your thermal fuse is most likely at fault. The thermal fuse will be connected to the heating element by a wire and will be located on the back panel (not the outside panel you took off but the back you exsposed when you removed the outside panel) center bottom to slightly center bottom right. It will have two connectors on it and be flush with the back and may be held in place by a rivit instead of a screw. If it is a rivit you will need to drill it out or shear it off with a chisel or screw driver tip. You can check it with you ohm meter by touching the terminals just like on the heating element. If not you can use a paper clip and put the two wires together that are connected to it. Reinstall the heating element if good and try your dryer. Temporarily you can leave the back off just run the dryer for 2 to 3 minutes to see if it gets hot. If it does replace the thermal fuse and you are ready to go. It is tempting to just leave the wires hooked together but dont this fuse keeps your dryer from burning up. You should also clean all the excess lint ect from the bottom of the dryer and as far inside the vent access as you can. The thermal fuse goes out when there is a build up of heat that is abnormal. You may be supprised at how much change you find in the bottom of the dryer I have found as much as 30 dollars in one. When you are in the dryer back also look at the hi heat limit it is mounted on the heating element casing if the wires are burnt ect.. put new ends on them and replace the hi limit it is held on by two screws and its best to replace it if the wires have burnt or melted any. I hope this helps you good luck
Hi, If the dryer heats but will not advance in either time or auto cycles, you need to change the timer. You can test to see if the timer is getting voltage. Remove the top rear panel and locate the two wires going to the timer motor. There should be 120V when the dryer is running in time dry. Please let me know if this helps or if I can assist you further.
lets see hear,..when your dryer starts do you hear two clicks or one.the first click is the motor centrifugal switch the second is power going to the gas valve and energizing the coil.if only one click.you need to check the fuse in the back of the dryer .its white ,i call it a missile and it has two wires too it .you can put those wires together and isolate with tape and if problem unit will run.if that was the problem you need to make sure all venting is clean also inner dryer air channels,but it sounds like you checked those.if two clicks your ignitor may have failed.you check that with a volt meter 110 volts i hope that gives you somthing to run with . God bless ,tom
Most likely you have a bad electrical connection, resulting in only 120 volts to dryer. (enough to run the 120 volt motor, but not enough to power the 240 volt heating elements) Turn off breaker. Make sure wires on breaker are tight. Make sure nutral wire is tight in breaker box. Take cover off dryer recepticle and check the wires in it to make sure they are all tight. Check that the connections of the cord at the dryer are tight.