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Re: No output, loud buzz, fried voltage selector switch.
You have a shorted diode in your rectifier. It's basically a direct current short. The switch was damaged (more than likely the contacts soldered together) when it was turned. The diode is an easy fix if you're electrically inclined and can determine which ones are shorted and/or open. The switch is a pain to replace, though. The diodes were $25-$30 20 years ago, the polarity switch was $50-$60, and I charged $75/hr labor. That repair would have cost you $250-300 if I did it 20 years ago. Probably much more now.
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All welders have what is caller a duty cycle switch that becomes hot expands and disengages the welder unit. Much like a thermostat works. It may well be that yours is defective. If you are handy you could do an R&R yourself. First you need to observe that this is your problem. If you are able to reset the unit after some cooling or the unit resets itself this R&R should correct your problem.
On this unit the fan is on demand, but if it does never come on, you should send it to your nearest repair shop, your machine has 3 years warranty. Before you send it to the repair shop, try to reduce the operating voltage.
Hello, I was a little suspicious about the voltage on this unit. Forgive me if I am telling you something you already know on the power side of this welder.
The welder you have is a 230 volt single phase 60 hz. What you require is a 230 volt connection. The two line wires from the 230 are connected on either side of the switch. The ground has to be connected to the chassis / frame of the welder itself. I would not connect to the ground cable output, I would connect only to the metal chassis of the welder. This is to keep the welder isolated from the main power circuits in your shop.
Unplug the unit. Remove the back. Take the input wires off the transformer. Using a DMM check for resistance. It should be more than zero around 2 to 5 ohms. Remove the output and do the same thing. If either winding is at zero ohms your transformer is bad and I would suspect it would cost more to replace than a new unit. If you need more help let me know.
there is probley nothing wrong its called duty cycle.which means that if you are welding long periods or welding at max amps the welder will kickout to cool down.Look on your unit for the tag that tells imformation about your unit.It will show something like 30% duty cycle so that means you can weld 3 minutes at full power before the unit shuts down.
Hi there, This sounds like your idle control module has gone bad. Since the machine will rev up to weld speed if you turn the switch to high it can't be that the solenoid has gone bad. Some models of engine driven welders from Miller use a little module, others have the idle circuit built into the control board, can't tell which yours is without a model number. This problem could also indicate a broken current transformer since letting the unit heat up makes things better. I'd use an ohm meter to check the resistance of the CT while it was cold to see if it goes from open circuit to just a few Kohms of resistance when it gets "room temp".