I have an older Kenmore top loading washer model 11082994100. The machine is in excellent condition and I replaced the main control board a couple of years back. Issue is lately when machine goes to end of...
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
If the bottom agitates and not the top, the problem is likely the 4 "agitator dogs" designed to allow the top agitator to turn only one way.
Look at the section on the Sears site for Agitator, basket and tub.
See the part "Dog, agitator "
Remove the fabric softener unit, lift the top agitator cap (use a screwdriver) and you should see a plastic part in the center of the top agitator with a 1/2" square drive.
Remove the drive and lift off the top agitator. Turning it over you should see the 4 "dogs", replace these and the top agitator should turn in one direction only.
Replace the 1/2" drive, the cap and fabric softener unit and the top agitator should work.
Also see the following illustrated description of the above.
See the following Whirlpool Service manuals for top load, direct drive washers. They describe what happens in the transmission when the washer goes into spin mode:
WHIRLPOOL INST AND MAINTENANCE INCLUDING HOW TRANSMISSION WORKS
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for their Commercial washers, although the consumer models use the same transmission.
Basically whats happening is this.
When the washer goes into spin mode two plastic cams are forced together and raise a gear on the main agitator shaft that is supposed to keep the agitators from spinning. If the cams are worn (not necessarily broken) the gear doesn't lift high enough to completely disengage the agitators. We had the same problem. Ours was a major gear noise but a clicking could also be a symptom. A set of Whirlpool Agitate Cams (part number 62580/01) cost about $15.00.
It's a bit messy to fix (16 oz. of oil in the transmission) but very inexpensive.
See the following for how to remove the transmission.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators.
The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt. A 1/2" socket extension works well.
You don't have to remove the drum.
You can also see this site for removing the transmission.
ILLUSTRATED DESCRIPTION OF REMOVING CABINET THRU TRANSMISSION.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15 Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil. (Available at auto parts stores)
Remove the transmission cover.
Pull off the spin pinion.
Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.
The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.
Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.
Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.
I'd also check the Motor Coupler (a $15.00 item that tends to wear) while you have the transmission out.
The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)
Nov 14, 2010 |